Borgeson Install
04-23-2014, 06:49 PM
#221
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Athens GA
Posts: 19,446
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Postulating. Getting at the lines on the box is somewhat of a pain in the *** with the vacuum brake booster in the way. The hydroboost system would definitely free up some room so you could see at it with more angles and get your arm in there easier, etc. You have more lines to deal with, but the ones on the booster should be trivial to install compared to the ones on the box.
Thanks
04-23-2014, 08:23 PM
#222
Le Mans Master
04-23-2014, 08:42 PM
#223
Le Mans Master
Re-indexing the wheel or hub will cause the signal cancelling cam to be offset. You will have to turn the wheel farther one way to get it to cancel. It's best to make sure the box is centered and put the upper hub of the rag joint on with the steering wheel centered. If it's still not close enough you can adjust the tie rods to finish centering it.
04-24-2014, 01:24 AM
#224
Race Director
Re-indexing the wheel or hub will cause the signal cancelling cam to be offset. You will have to turn the wheel farther one way to get it to cancel. It's best to make sure the box is centered and put the upper hub of the rag joint on with the steering wheel centered. If it's still not close enough you can adjust the tie rods to finish centering it.
04-25-2014, 01:02 PM
#225
Le Mans Master
This is what I did. The box and wheel were dead straight when I set it up. Took it out of the garage and drove it down the road and it re-centered itself with the wheel about 20-30 off. The geometry of the drag link is different vs the PS valve and will shift the center link in one direction. You then adjust the tie rods to correct this (in my case, had an alignment shop do that).
04-25-2014, 03:37 PM
#226
Race Director
04-25-2014, 06:27 PM
#227
Le Mans Master
mine was off just about that much.... its going in for an alignment.... as far as the install goes..... WOW!!! its a whole new car... 
it drives like brand new... great choice going this way...
it drives like brand new... great choice going this way...
09-28-2014, 01:04 PM
#229
Burning Brakes
I haven't seen any coupons lately.
But, the absolutely best deal I find is from these guys:
Mudflaps.com
I have bought two Borgeson kits for Corvettes from them.
They drop ship to Borgeson direct, and it takes about 3-4 weeks to get your kit, but it is only 602.00 for the complete kit minus the power steering pump.
This is primarily a 4 wheel truck outfit, but they have no issue with ordering you Borgeson kit for your vette.
09-29-2014, 08:07 AM
#231
Burning Brakes
I have the pump, so the 602 kit is good for me.
http://mudflaps.com/search.html?q=co...+box&go=Search
09-29-2014, 03:11 PM
#233
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2010
Posts: 120
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I haven't seen any coupons lately.
But, the absolutely best deal I find is from these guys:
Mudflaps.com
I have bought two Borgeson kits for Corvettes from them.
They drop ship to Borgeson direct, and it takes about 3-4 weeks to get your kit, but it is only 602.00 for the complete kit minus the power steering pump.
This is primarily a 4 wheel truck outfit, but they have no issue with ordering you Borgeson kit for your vette.
But, the absolutely best deal I find is from these guys:
Mudflaps.com
I have bought two Borgeson kits for Corvettes from them.
They drop ship to Borgeson direct, and it takes about 3-4 weeks to get your kit, but it is only 602.00 for the complete kit minus the power steering pump.
This is primarily a 4 wheel truck outfit, but they have no issue with ordering you Borgeson kit for your vette.
10-02-2014, 02:07 PM
#234
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hello, my car is a 1966 roadster was non-power steering, 327/300HP. I'm in the process of installing the pump and brackets. My instructions were lost @ my engine builders garage. My body is off the car so this makes things a little easier. I have two questions.
1. why are my studs on the pump leaking. Do the stud nuts go between the bracket with additional nuts and washers on the outside of the mounting bracket. This is a Borgeson pump.
2. I bought my pulleys from Vintage air. The pump pulley is on number 3 pulley farthest from engine. The pump pulley does not line up perfectly with the # 3 crank pulley. It looks like the the miss-alignment is less than an 1/8" can I somehow shim the pump to correct this. I do have the pulley GM numbers if that will help..
Thank you,
Al
1. why are my studs on the pump leaking. Do the stud nuts go between the bracket with additional nuts and washers on the outside of the mounting bracket. This is a Borgeson pump.
2. I bought my pulleys from Vintage air. The pump pulley is on number 3 pulley farthest from engine. The pump pulley does not line up perfectly with the # 3 crank pulley. It looks like the the miss-alignment is less than an 1/8" can I somehow shim the pump to correct this. I do have the pulley GM numbers if that will help..
Thank you,
Al
I didn't have a problem with the pully alignment, but I suppose a washer between the engine and the bracket would do the job.
02-17-2015, 01:09 PM
#236
Pro
[QUOTE=Mr.Green;1583084456]I finally decided to take the plunge and go with the Borgeson power steering box. I had finally had enough with that leaky control valve.
-Used a ball joint separator to remove the PSCV. Be careful, the valve will come off with some force behind it!
I just saw this thread, thanks Mr. Green, good timing for me, and others too as it looks like a bunch of us are currently doing this mod. Just a note to add...when separating tapered pins with the lever type tool, if you just back the nut off a small amount instead of removing it the joint will still separate and the nut will keep the parts from flying apart. The noise it makes still makes me jump even though I am expecting it.
-Used a ball joint separator to remove the PSCV. Be careful, the valve will come off with some force behind it!
I just saw this thread, thanks Mr. Green, good timing for me, and others too as it looks like a bunch of us are currently doing this mod. Just a note to add...when separating tapered pins with the lever type tool, if you just back the nut off a small amount instead of removing it the joint will still separate and the nut will keep the parts from flying apart. The noise it makes still makes me jump even though I am expecting it.
02-17-2015, 02:17 PM
#237
Race Director
Sounds like a gunshot. You get used to it after 5 or 6 times.
02-20-2015, 11:33 PM
#238
Racer
I am in the process of rebuilding my entire front end bushings to borgenson box. I currently have the Control arms off the car being media blasted. I was going to all the bushings new springs and ball joints, do a dyi alignment and take it for a short ride to get a feel for the difference they make. Then I was going to install new VBP tie rod ends and sleeves and drive it to feel that difference. Then install the new borgenson box and drive it and finally put Bilstien HD shocks on. Should I just pull everything off and install everything at once? How much easier will the box swap and install be with the control arms and springs off the car(all work will be done with the luxury of a lift).
02-22-2015, 11:39 AM
#239
Instructor
I am in the process of rebuilding my entire front end bushings to borgenson box. I currently have the Control arms off the car being media blasted. I was going to all the bushings new springs and ball joints, do a dyi alignment and take it for a short ride to get a feel for the difference they make. Then I was going to install new VBP tie rod ends and sleeves and drive it to feel that difference. Then install the new borgenson box and drive it and finally put Bilstien HD shocks on. Should I just pull everything off and install everything at once? How much easier will the box swap and install be with the control arms and springs off the car(all work will be done with the luxury of a lift).
I changed the a-arms because they were scraped up pretty bad so just got replacement ones with bushings, new ball joints, etc. Added Bilstien HD shocks. I put in new VBP coils (550's I think would have to look it up) and even put a new drag link although that was just since every thing else is new why not. Had to collapse the steering shaft some but with the old box out that was not to hard but I did not remove the steering col from the car. While I had the drag link out I replaced the steering box, made a lot more room but can be done with it in the car also.I do not have headers so that was also a little help space wise. My Power steering pump leaked so got a rebuilt one while I had it that far. There are two brass restrictors that come with it make sure you put them in. I put all the original shims in place figuring they would be close enough and checked the toe in with a tape measure and took it for alignment, was so close only the left front was off a little bit. One word of caution when the alignment person looks they will not see all the old power steering stuff and assume it is manual steering, which has different settings, I pointed out the new box and he said good thing he thought it looked like manual, I used the VBP specs for alignment. World of difference, more responsive nice easy steering when you need it, less cranking the wheel to make a turn and looks factory.
02-22-2015, 01:50 PM
#240
Racer
What you are doing is almost 100% identical to what I did, mine is a 72 with factory power steering.
I changed the a-arms because they were scraped up pretty bad so just got replacement ones with bushings, new ball joints, etc. Added Bilstien HD shocks. I put in new VBP coils (550's I think would have to look it up) and even put a new drag link although that was just since every thing else is new why not. Had to collapse the steering shaft some but with the old box out that was not to hard but I did not remove the steering col from the car. While I had the drag link out I replaced the steering box, made a lot more room but can be done with it in the car also.I do not have headers so that was also a little help space wise. My Power steering pump leaked so got a rebuilt one while I had it that far. There are two brass restrictors that come with it make sure you put them in. I put all the original shims in place figuring they would be close enough and checked the toe in with a tape measure and took it for alignment, was so close only the left front was off a little bit. One word of caution when the alignment person looks they will not see all the old power steering stuff and assume it is manual steering, which has different settings, I pointed out the new box and he said good thing he thought it looked like manual, I used the VBP specs for alignment. World of difference, more responsive nice easy steering when you need it, less cranking the wheel to make a turn and looks factory.
I changed the a-arms because they were scraped up pretty bad so just got replacement ones with bushings, new ball joints, etc. Added Bilstien HD shocks. I put in new VBP coils (550's I think would have to look it up) and even put a new drag link although that was just since every thing else is new why not. Had to collapse the steering shaft some but with the old box out that was not to hard but I did not remove the steering col from the car. While I had the drag link out I replaced the steering box, made a lot more room but can be done with it in the car also.I do not have headers so that was also a little help space wise. My Power steering pump leaked so got a rebuilt one while I had it that far. There are two brass restrictors that come with it make sure you put them in. I put all the original shims in place figuring they would be close enough and checked the toe in with a tape measure and took it for alignment, was so close only the left front was off a little bit. One word of caution when the alignment person looks they will not see all the old power steering stuff and assume it is manual steering, which has different settings, I pointed out the new box and he said good thing he thought it looked like manual, I used the VBP specs for alignment. World of difference, more responsive nice easy steering when you need it, less cranking the wheel to make a turn and looks factory.