has anyones r4 compressor lasted more than 2 years?
#2
Melting Slicks
rebuilt unit, NO, lasted 1 yr., so i purchased a new one, so far still going, 3 yrs later. fyi
#4
Drifting
Are you running R-12 or R-134a?
R4 compressors were marginal running R-12 and virtually useless when running the higher pressures required for R-134a.
If you are running a reman unit, all bets are off...
R4 compressors were marginal running R-12 and virtually useless when running the higher pressures required for R-134a.
If you are running a reman unit, all bets are off...
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,470 Likes
on
1,249 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Mine's been cooling for as long as I've owned the car.
#6
We can't get R-12 anymore in Canada. That R-12a hydrocarbon is advertised as a replacement with lower head pressure. Can we use that with an R4?
#7
Drifting
Are you close enough to the border to run to the states and get your R-12?
You may have to bite the bullet and go with R-134a and convert to a Sanden style compressor with new hoses and parallel flow radiator..
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: gold coast queensland
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I cant get R12 here anymore. I have been through 2 compressors and the first one rattled and jammed up( probably bearing ) the second one had more leaks than a russian submarine.
I have bought a sanden and bracket but sadly for me i cant make it fit because of how my headers are built. Also buying a parallel cross flow condenser is out of the question with my location.
I have bought a sanden and bracket but sadly for me i cant make it fit because of how my headers are built. Also buying a parallel cross flow condenser is out of the question with my location.
#9
Drifting
Pictures may be required-
A parallel flow condenser is smaller (thinner) than the OEM unit so I'm not sure why you couldn't get it to fit either?
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: gold coast queensland
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I have dummy fitted my sanden bracket so you can visualize my drama. The back of the sanden is contacting the header keeping in mind it wouldnt matter what bracket i use as the sanden will always be in the same spot for the pulleys to line up. If i swing the bracket out full extension i dont have the clearance from my upper control arm.
headache i tell you.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; 02-06-2013 at 08:03 PM.
#11
Drifting
Wow.. Missed the RH drive part.. Yikes..
Have you considered converting to LH drive? just kidding...
Seems like you should have a ton of room on the left side then?
Can you install the alternator on the RH side and the A/C compressor on the left?
Other than having to get creative with the hose routing, that may be your best bet.
It's hard to tell in the pictures but is the evaporator case also on the right side?!
Have you considered converting to LH drive? just kidding...
Seems like you should have a ton of room on the left side then?
Can you install the alternator on the RH side and the A/C compressor on the left?
Other than having to get creative with the hose routing, that may be your best bet.
It's hard to tell in the pictures but is the evaporator case also on the right side?!
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: gold coast queensland
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Wow.. Missed the RH drive part.. Yikes..
Have you considered converting to LH drive? just kidding...
Seems like you should have a ton of room on the left side then?
Can you install the alternator on the RH side and the A/C compressor on the left?
Other than having to get creative with the hose routing, that may be your best bet.
It's hard to tell in the pictures but is the evaporator case also on the right side?!
Have you considered converting to LH drive? just kidding...
Seems like you should have a ton of room on the left side then?
Can you install the alternator on the RH side and the A/C compressor on the left?
Other than having to get creative with the hose routing, that may be your best bet.
It's hard to tell in the pictures but is the evaporator case also on the right side?!
Oh and now that the car is 30 years old i can go back to left hand drive haha but thats not going to happen either .
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; 02-06-2013 at 11:19 PM.
#13
Drifting
No go there mate. Everything in the engine bay apart from the steering is how it was when it was left hand drive. AC airbox is still on the right side. Brake booster is on the left so yes the left side of the engine has miles of space, right said is very tight. there is no point in swapping alt and AC accessories around( way too much effort and ugly). I guess im back to using the R4 compressor (new one) and finding a parallel cross flow condenser but even then i dont feel its the greatest set up.
Oh and now that the car is 30 years old i can go back to left hand drive haha but thats not going to happen either .
Oh and now that the car is 30 years old i can go back to left hand drive haha but thats not going to happen either .
Sounds like you're kinda stuck-
Have you searched around to see if anyone sells a NEW vs rebuilt R-4 compressor?
Rebuilt units are a crap-shoot at best.
Elm
#14
Racer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Cherry Hill N.J.
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a web site for new or rebuilt compressors......
discountacparts.com.
I purchased a NEW compressor for my 77 from them, great service and
FREE shipping.
Contact them, I'm positive you will find what you need!!!
Good Luck
discountacparts.com.
I purchased a NEW compressor for my 77 from them, great service and
FREE shipping.
Contact them, I'm positive you will find what you need!!!
Good Luck
#15
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Gingerbread..
Are you replacing the drier, orifice and flushing when you replace the compressor? Usually when you have repeated compressor failures it is due to contaminants or debris in the system. IMHO,
Willcox
Are you replacing the drier, orifice and flushing when you replace the compressor? Usually when you have repeated compressor failures it is due to contaminants or debris in the system. IMHO,
Willcox
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Sulphur LA
Posts: 2,686
Received 105 Likes
on
95 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
also I've messed around with the Hydrocarbon refrigerants and they work very well. With the R12a refrigerant I was able to achieve the coldest vent temps and faster cool down than with R134A. This was with a 96 K1500 chevy with R134A factory fill. I'll say that the system worked very well before filling with R12a.
If the system is in good shape and working correctly the R4 comp should last. I agree with Mr Willcox that the system needs to be very clean as in remove all the AC components and flush them with the correct AC flush and than re-install with the correct amount of oil added to each component.
R134a will produce low 40 to high 30 degree temps if all of the components of the system are working correctly.
If you use your original condenser you need to make sure to maximize the air flow through the condenser. If you have electric fans make sure they run when the AC is turned on (100% of the time). Make sure the radiator seals are in tact and their is no air bypassing the condenser.
The two issues that will kill the compressor will be excessive head pressure and contaminate in the system. If the system was not cleaned correctly (remove all components and flush) after the first failure than this is more than likely the cause of the continued failures.
Hope this helps
Neal
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: gold coast queensland
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Sure do and even got another drier ready to go for next time. From what im reading plenty are having repeat failures doing the same . An engine spinning to 6000 might not be helping my problem either.
#18
Drifting
How much oil and what kind, do you have in the system ? I've seen lots of compressor boxes state "has oil", but when you remove the shipping plugs and turn it upside down, only enough oil for assembly comes out. Next compressor, pour out and measure the oil, add the correct amount in the compressor, turn the compressor by hand, clutch side down, about ten times. Flush the system with an ac flush and shop air (all lines to evap, accumulator etc open), reassemble, put 2 oz oil in accum, 2-3 oz in condensor, all new o rings, correct amount of oil in compressor,suck in down with a vacuum pump for one hour, recharge and enjoy. I did this last summer on my "new to me"F150, took most of the day. Spend the time,effort and money, and do it once...
Last edited by centralcalvette; 02-07-2013 at 09:11 PM.
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: gold coast queensland
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
How much oil and what kind, do you have in the system ? I've seen lots of compressor boxes state "has oil", but when you remove the shipping plugs and turn it upside down, only enough oil for assembly comes out. Next compressor, pour out and measure the oil, add the correct amount in the compressor, turn the compressor by hand, clutch side down, about ten times. Flush the system with an ac flush and shop air (all lines to evap, accumulator etc open), reassemble, put 2 oz oil in accum, 2-3 oz in condensor, all new o rings, correct amount of oil in compressor,suck in down with a vacuum pump for one hour, recharge and enjoy. I did this last summer on my "new to me"F150, took most of the day. Spend the time,effort and money, and do it once...
#20
Race Director
The only way to properly oil the system is to flush every component and then fill to total system specs.
Other methods are just guesswork
BTW, your failures are classic debris related.
Other methods are just guesswork
BTW, your failures are classic debris related.