Oil Filter ?
#21
Drifting
#22
Drifting
i have used fram filters for as long i can remember,i only leave them in for a max 4 months and run synthetic in all the cars i service,i have never had an engine failure in 40 years of servicing all mine and the family's cars.i do not work for or sell fram filters.on my intrigue the fram filter is an exposed media style with no shell.never saw any decomposition.i removed my valve covers to do a valve adjustment and could not believe how clean my engine was.here are shots of the head and valve cover as removed.
#23
Le Mans Master
I've used my share of Frams over the years, without any problems. Some rag on them, because of some internal cardboard gasketing, but really not in a place that matters. Honestly don't use them anymore, as for a few more bucks, can get something better. Watch the major parts store ad's, as last year got a 5 quart jug of Castol Edge and K&N filter for $30 bucks from Advance. More recently, 5 quart jug of Pennzoil Platinum and K&N filter for $33 bucks from Autozone. A $10 Shell gas card too.
#26
Race Director
Wix. I got sold on them after I cut one apart and looked at the construction.
For the people who use Fram: Cut one apart and then tell me you will continue using Fram.
For the people who use Fram: Cut one apart and then tell me you will continue using Fram.
#27
Race Director
For the Vette I use a gm PF35L. It is the truck length filter but also has a 12 micron ABSOLUTE rating - the best you are gonna get. Not cheap and not every place carries it. It was developed for racing the sbc so you can bet it flows a lot too.
BTW, I have long tube headers and the easiest way to remove the filter is to punch a hole in the bottom, let it drain and then run your punch through the bottom end of the filter, sideways. Comes off no sweat.
For my DD P/Up I use a NAPA Pro Select, which the parts guy swears is the same as the Gold, packed at half the price.
BTW, I have long tube headers and the easiest way to remove the filter is to punch a hole in the bottom, let it drain and then run your punch through the bottom end of the filter, sideways. Comes off no sweat.
For my DD P/Up I use a NAPA Pro Select, which the parts guy swears is the same as the Gold, packed at half the price.
The Baldwin B6-HPG is the same except with spun glass media like the PF35L but with a micron rating of 6.
Both the Baldwins are full size and hold a quart of oil. 2 quart are available.
That filter has the same specs as the Baldwin B279
There is always a controversy between flow and micron rating, the finer the filtering the lower the flow.
My concern is that with too fine a rating, the oil gets bypassed by the filter adapter which is rated at 7 to 10psi differential.
Consensus is that it bypasses the filter altogether a lot of the time.
No easy way to test for that.
That's why I opted for the higher micron rating, but with the 20psi differential bypass. At least the oil will hopefully be filtered all the time. Ferrari and Porsche spec that filter.
I also switched to Mobil1 0w-40 recently to help the flow situation a bit.
Here is part of the newer standard for filter testing the manufactures supposedly have switched to. It's sort of confusing, but at least it's a standard guide.
Beta Ratio is a formula used to calculate the filtration efficiency of a particular filter using the data from multi-pass testing. Part of the ISO 4572 standard says the maximum reliable filtration ratio is Beta(x)= 75. This is commonly known as the "absolute" rating for the filter. Anything above Beta(x) = 75 cannot be statistically verified. The Beta(x) = 2 is commonly known as the "nominal" rating. To convert a Beta ratio to efficiency is simple: Beta Ratio-1/Beta Ratio= Filter Efficiency. The Beta (x)=2 efficiency is (2-1)/2 = 1/2, the efficiency is 50%. The Beta(x)= 75 efficiency is (75-1)/75 = 74/75 = .98666 or 98.67%. The (x) after the word Beta denotes the size particle that is being considered. Therefore, Beta(10)=4 means that the filter in question is 75% efficient at removing 10 micron size contaminants and larger from the hydraulic system
#28
Drifting
i will cut mine open after the usual 4 month service and check it out.very curious to see how it holds up internally.i may be getting by due to my quick oil changes or use of synthetic oil.
#30
#32
Drifting
i can only speak for myself and say ,"no".orange and black do look nice together though.if that filter looks degraded when i cut it i will switch and consider myself lucky.
#34
Racer
You are about to get a bunch of answers. I use Wix or NAPA Gold. Same filter, less than $10.
Try this site. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
Try this site. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
this has made me realize , all the care, polishing & frequent oil/filter changes etc don't mean nothing if the oil filter fails
sometimes a cheap part from a far-off land is a good deal - not so for oil filters
Pete.
#36
Drifting
For the Vette I use a gm PF35L. It is the truck length filter but also has a 12 micron ABSOLUTE rating - the best you are gonna get. Not cheap and not every place carries it. It was developed for racing the sbc so you can bet it flows a lot too.
BTW, I have long tube headers and the easiest way to remove the filter is to punch a hole in the bottom, let it drain and then run your punch through the bottom end of the filter, sideways. Comes off no sweat.
For my DD P/Up I use a NAPA Pro Select, which the parts guy swears is the same as the Gold, packed at half the price.
BTW, I have long tube headers and the easiest way to remove the filter is to punch a hole in the bottom, let it drain and then run your punch through the bottom end of the filter, sideways. Comes off no sweat.
For my DD P/Up I use a NAPA Pro Select, which the parts guy swears is the same as the Gold, packed at half the price.
#38
Much more important than any extra oil volume is the fact that the larger filters have more filtering area. So the pressure drop across the filter is always less than the smaller filters. As I said before, the NAPA 1794 (made by Wix) is so large that it probably will never go into bypass mode, and you will get 100% of your oil filtered, 100% of the time.
Part B of that is, when you are changing your oil, fill the new filter almost to the top BEFORE you install it. That way, you don't run on zero oil pressure for any length of time on initial startup, while the filter is filling up.
Use the markings on your dipstick to adjust your oil level.
Part B of that is, when you are changing your oil, fill the new filter almost to the top BEFORE you install it. That way, you don't run on zero oil pressure for any length of time on initial startup, while the filter is filling up.
Use the markings on your dipstick to adjust your oil level.
#40
Drifting
Much more important than any extra oil volume is the fact that the larger filters have more filtering area. So the pressure drop across the filter is always less than the smaller filters. As I said before, the NAPA 1794 (made by Wix) is so large that it probably will never go into bypass mode, and you will get 100% of your oil filtered, 100% of the time.
Part B of that is, when you are changing your oil, fill the new filter almost to the top BEFORE you install it. That way, you don't run on zero oil pressure for any length of time on initial startup, while the filter is filling up.
Use the markings on your dipstick to adjust your oil level.
Part B of that is, when you are changing your oil, fill the new filter almost to the top BEFORE you install it. That way, you don't run on zero oil pressure for any length of time on initial startup, while the filter is filling up.
Use the markings on your dipstick to adjust your oil level.