high beam problems
#1
high beam problems
1976 corvette, l82.
For the entire time I have driven it, the low beams work fine. When I try to use the high beams they will work for about 1 or 2 minutes then I lose all lights. So, I never use the high beams, only the low beams (which makes it a little scary to drive fast at night).
I Just got done replacing the dimmer switch on the floor, yet the problem persists....Before I start ordering more parts that i don't need, does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
For the entire time I have driven it, the low beams work fine. When I try to use the high beams they will work for about 1 or 2 minutes then I lose all lights. So, I never use the high beams, only the low beams (which makes it a little scary to drive fast at night).
I Just got done replacing the dimmer switch on the floor, yet the problem persists....Before I start ordering more parts that i don't need, does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
#2
Team Owner
Check to see if the dash area around the headlight switch is getting warm with LO beam lights...then turn on HI beams and check again. If it is getting warm/hot, then the headlight switch is going bad (contacts burnt and/or corroded) and the switch is converting a lot of current into heat. That would be my first thing to check.
#3
Pro
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: Miami FL
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St. Jude Donor '11, '14
hi beams
Look into doing the Headlight relay mod while you are at it, much brighter lights
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-wiring.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-wiring.html
#4
Racer
Headlight Switch Safety Switch
Willcox probably has more information on this subject as he provides replacement parts. I experienced this problem about six years ago. I replaced the headlight switch (not cheap), high beam headlights (PO had installed after market high beams) and connectors with no improvement. By reading several of the threads on CF I found that there is a thermal safety switch that opens if the current is "too high." The problem is that there is a rather small interval between a current of "normal" and "too hight" and the lights going out would happen at "inopportune times". Rather than chase things endlessly, and to fix it finally, I installed a separate relay for low beams and high beams with separate fuses. Now the headlight safety switch only powers the relays. Problem gone.
#5
thanks for all the suggestions!
as far as i can tell, nothing seems to be getting hot, the headlight switch was replaced about a year ago (I still have the orginal too, which as it turned out was not the problem).
This relay mod is something ill have to look into a little more.
as far as i can tell, nothing seems to be getting hot, the headlight switch was replaced about a year ago (I still have the orginal too, which as it turned out was not the problem).
This relay mod is something ill have to look into a little more.
#6
Le Mans Master
What kind of lights are you running? I had no problem with the headlights until I switched to Hella Euro's in 1983 (OMG its been that long!!). The lights worked fine on lows but on high beams with the 55 watt bulbs, the dash headlight switch would flash all the lights after about 2 minutes just like you described. The OEM sealed beams were 35 watts. In 1990, I added a relay to the high beam circuit only and now run 55 watt lows and 100 watt highs-the Hella Euros even today are pretty impressive!! Solved the problem with the high beam relay. I think that you are probably drawing too much current through the dash switch causing the circuit breaker to trip.
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Sounds like it may be switch time... If the thermal breaker switch inside the headlamp switch is malfunctioning then this would explain it..
It could possibly a short to ground somewhere on the high beam side (lt green wire).
The light blue wire from the headlamp switch runs to the dimmer switch with 12 volts. From there the dimmer switch clicks over to either the tan or light green wires. Light green is the power for the high beams and tan is low beam. How long before the lamps can be used again.. If it's only seconds... then I would suspect the headlamp switch as the issue.
I would test for short to ground on the lt green wire between the dimmer switch connector and the high beam bulbs.. do a visual for any broken wires around the bulbs. Check the dash for heat as mentioned.
It could possibly a short to ground somewhere on the high beam side (lt green wire).
The light blue wire from the headlamp switch runs to the dimmer switch with 12 volts. From there the dimmer switch clicks over to either the tan or light green wires. Light green is the power for the high beams and tan is low beam. How long before the lamps can be used again.. If it's only seconds... then I would suspect the headlamp switch as the issue.
I would test for short to ground on the lt green wire between the dimmer switch connector and the high beam bulbs.. do a visual for any broken wires around the bulbs. Check the dash for heat as mentioned.