Oil Pan Removal
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil Pan Removal
The 1971 Chassis Service Manual instructions for Oil PAN R&R are a little confusing on the install part. It says "Raise engine, remove wood blocks, and lower engine onto front front mounts". It doesn't mention discontenting the mounts or raising the engine. I should be able to get adequate clearance to drop the pan by discontenting the steer linkage idler, is this correct? The engine is a LS5.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Le Mans Master
Just had the oil pan on my 496 swapped from a Moroso to a Milodon. Pretty sure that all they had to do was disconnect the linkage at the idler arm and maybe unbolt the ram from the frame. That gave enough clearance to get the pan in and out.
#4
Team Owner
Correct. Remove the two bolts holding the idler arm to the frame, drop the linkage as far as it will go, then you will have enough access to drop the pan. You may have to 'bump' the engine over a bit to get the crank in a good position for best clearance with the oil pan, but that is a much easier approach than raising the engine.
#5
Pro
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I just did this on a 71. I had the front end on jack stands, dropped the idler arm, disconnected power steering cylinder behind the left front wheel and disconnected the left tie rod end.
I suppose I could of removed the pan without undoing the tie rod end but this gave me a lot more room. No need to position the crank. If you are worried about whether or not you can get the tie rod end loose, just remove the cotter key and castle nut and replace the nut with a regular nut screwed down not quite flush with the top of the ball joint threads. Smack down on the nut with a hammer a couple times and it will pop out.
A lot of mechanics just smack the end of the steering arm and the tie rod end falls out but this tends to scare people.
I suppose I could of removed the pan without undoing the tie rod end but this gave me a lot more room. No need to position the crank. If you are worried about whether or not you can get the tie rod end loose, just remove the cotter key and castle nut and replace the nut with a regular nut screwed down not quite flush with the top of the ball joint threads. Smack down on the nut with a hammer a couple times and it will pop out.
A lot of mechanics just smack the end of the steering arm and the tie rod end falls out but this tends to scare people.
#6
Team Owner
No need to position the crank.....IF you drop all the stuff you did. If you only drop the idler arm/link, then you either need to be a bit lucky or you will need to 'bump' the engine, if you want to pan to clear everything easily.
#8
Melting Slicks
Had mine off twice, once for new cam and the 2nd for new pan.
#9
Racer
i take the pitman arm off instead of the idler. for me that was much easier. need a pitman arm puller though. one piece gaskets are soooooo much better than the old ones.