deisenreich

Folks,

I am chasing a non-start condition on my 1980 4-speed. I don't know what I did, but probably something stupid, since that would be keeping in character.

Somewhere in between converting to AC delete option (removed AC system for a clean look) and putting in a new radio I managed to goof something. Turn the key and nothing. headlights don't dim at all and I hear a click from somewhere around the battery behind me, but that is it. My battery is good.

When I jump the starter it turns over and would start had I not disconnected the coil, so I assume the solenoid/relay and starter are good.

I checked the fuseable links and they are good - 4 ohms resistance which is the same as a similar length of straight 12 gauge wire.

Checked the clutch safety switch and it had 12 volts so power was there - eliminated that.

battery and ground are good, everything else works lights, rear-defogger, cigarette, signals, PW windows, etc - except for the fan, but that wiring is disconnected in the engine bay as I am awaiting the non-ac firewall piece and then I will hook up the blower motor and figure out how rewire that stuff.

I am left with the ignition switch as a possible culprit. I dropped the steering column and removed the switch. There are two connectors going to the switch. One with 4 wires/terminals, the other with 3 wires/terminals. I would like to jump which ever wire is the hot to turn the car over to verify that the ignition switch is in fact the problem, but am uncertain which wires to jump.

Has anyone done this and can help? Thanks in advance.

Doug1

maybe use a volmeter/test light to figure which wire is hot and then an ohmeter to see which wire goes to the solenoid, then connect those 2

manual shows for "typical starting system" yellow wire going to the transmission(clutch starter switch for manual tranny and nuetral saftey switch for auto) then coming out of that it becomes dark green/white going to starter interrupt relay, then purple to the starter itself

Doug1

which side? if input side(yellow) then according to how im reading the manual, it can't be key switch. if its the output side(dark green/white) then the next item is the starter interrupt relay.
remember also that the clutch has to be pushed down to close that connection from yellow to dark green/white

deisenreich

Doug1,

Thanks for the info, I temporarily bypassed the clutch safety switch and tried shorting the ignition switch wires and got nothing - other than the key buzzer warning sound and the standard dash warning lights that come on start key condition.

I feel like I am missing something and am at a loss at what to try next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Doug1

well couple pages later in manual it shows for "later models" that there are 2 hot wires that go into ignition switch, so touching them together may not necessarily be mimicking the function of key switch

Doug1

have you tested for juice at yellow wire when you turn key switch to turn engine over? this according to manual should have power when u try to start car, it then goes to the clutch starter switch which then goes to the starter relay, then lastly the starter

deisenreich

Ok thanks, will try that tomorrow after work when there is still light and see what it shows..

Is the relay you mentioned earlier the same as the solenoid atop the starter?

If not, I don't know where that is and would like to test that item for 12 volts.

I ordered an ignition switch which hopefully will be here maybe by next weekend and I will try that in case more than 2 wires need to be shorted on the ignition switch feed connectors. (Clearly I would have made a poor car thief.)

Doug1

yes

DC3

I am assuming that the ignition switch in your '80 is the same or very similar to the one in my '73. If that is the case, are you aware the switch needs to be adjusted? The mounting holes are slots which allow the switch to be positioned properly on the steering column. If it is too far one direction (can't remember which), you'll have a no start condition. If it is too far the other direction, you likely won't be able to get the switch into the accessory position.

Hope this helps.

DC

Doug1

I bet you solved it, seemed kinda weird to me that it went bad all of a suddden.

deisenreich

Doug1, I haven't solved it yet - was at the pumpkin patch with the kids today so will try again if time permits tomorrow after work or next weekend.

It did give out on me kinda sudden - but I was while I was taking out the AC system and putting in a new radio, so I had not been driving it for a few weeks. I probably shorted something when I was taking out the AC system or less likely when I was installing the new radio.

I forgot to disconnect the battery one time during the removal - I should have known better, but was listening to the radio.

I very much appreciate your help, as might be obvious I am not great with electrical stuff. Will post when I have a chance to check for power on the yellow wire. Thanks again.

deisenreich

DC3,

The switch is probably the same as your 73 - as I see the rod that moves the switch positions on the steering column.

I'm not sure its the switch, but have one on order and will check top see if that is the culprit.

I think its something I accidentally fried while removing the AC system. I forgot to disconnect the battery one time while listening to the radio and something sparked. I thought nothing of it at the time, but I bet thats when I did the damage. Didn't try to start the car for a few weeks and when I did on Saturday was when I discovered nothing happens when turning the key. The ignition system seems fairly simple on an 80 - seems to be a fairly short list of items that can fail, but apparently not simple enough for me. I appreciate all the suggestions, please keep them coming as i am sure someone else has had this issue.