Xterrable

After I spent all my efforts in replacing my motor and really cleaning the engine compartment, I have developed a leak from the brake proportioning valve. When I was under the car, I tried to take the brake lines off, but noticed that the bolts that hold the proportioning valve to the car were already snapped off. So I couldnt get a good enough grip to really try and brake them free.

Not that everything is back together, I see that the proportioning valve is leaking. I tried to tighten everything back up, but again, if I turn it any harder, I am afraid of snapping the lines, since it is basically hanging there..

So, what I am calling the proportioning valve is the "block" located under the master cylinder near the bottom of the engine compartment. Is that correct?

What lines do you suggest replacing? if I was to get the set of replacement lines (Cost about $120) does that cover just about everything that I need? Can these be replaced easily or do 20 different parts need to come off just to replace the brake lines.

What other problems might I run into while doing this project??

Thanks

Xterrable

Ohh camon... Some body has got to have a suggestion..??

Are the hard metal lines easy to replace?

brianPA

3/16" tubing is easy to bend into the right shape, but you need over $100 worth of tools if you have to cut, bend, and flare. Also I needed flare nut wrenches.

I've only replaced the rear lines. Not sure about the ones you are talking about here. Rears were easy.

jordan89

They're very easy to replace. I bought a complete per-bent set for my '74 and finished it up yesterday.

Xterrable

Yeah, i want to replace all the hard lines. Where did you get them from? Did you replace the distrobution block?

scottw

I got mine from Wilcox, I think. I replaced all the hard lines, block, and then replaced the rubber hoses with stainless steal ones going to the calipers.
I had the same problem. Snapped one trying to get off so I replaced all of them. The only hard one is the long one that goes driver side all the way back. Getting it around the back frame is a PITA. Other than that, it is a very easy job.

Indiancreek

You may as well replace all the hard lines while your hands are dirty. I'd remove the snapped off mounting bolts and remount the block as it was supposed to be.
While you're at it do it correctly or headaches may return. If it didn't need anchored GM wouldn't have wasted the bolts and time to thread the holes.

Xterrable

Main reason I am asking, is I can try to do it at home in my garage on jack stands and not worry about how long it is going to take.

- or -

Use my friends shop and car lift where he works. But we are limited to 3 or 4 hours on a Saturday. If some reason we end up needing additional parts or breaking something, I am pretty much screwed.

jordan89

I got mine from corvette central, but any of the supporting vendors here will have them. I did mine on jack stands and it wasn't too bad. The line going from front to back is a bit tricky, so be patient. I didn't replace the distribution blocks. I just cleaned them up real well.

lvmyvt76

I put on stainless lines, some say you don't need stainless because they originally did not use stainless. I did have my motor out, to do that area was easier then. You are right, the long one back to rear end is the hardest to do. You will probably need a full day to do them on jack stands, or I did. I reused all the blocks that were on the car. I also put on stainless line to the calipers, had one rubber one break before, and don't want the trouble rubber can have later on. I also bought new clips and bolts, not too expensive.

jordan89

Forgot to mention, I too used stainless steel lines and replaced the stock rubber lines with Russel braided hoses. It actually didn't take me that long to replace the long line, I guess I just got lucky.