Will my engine/transmission/rear end handle mild Nitrous?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Will my engine/transmission/rear end handle mild Nitrous?
Gents, I seek your knowledge. Im looking for another thrill, but I dont want to blow myself up. Can my engine handle a mild dose of nitrous, if so, how much, and how much HP increase should I expect? Heres what Im running-
454, .060 over, 2 bolt main with mild dome pistons, low 9's compression. Stock heads. (1972)
Straub cam, Q-jet by Lars. Timing is currently set at 30 (or so) with no vac advance hooked up.
Fresh Muncie 4 speed (just rebuilt last winter)
Stock 1972 rear end to include original half shafts.
Can I add a NOS system and not blow myself up or am I inviting a catastrophic failure?
I know that a set of performance heads would really wake this car up, but I cant afford another 2K in parts and all the fine tuning a full teardown will take.
Can I bolt on a simple NOS system or should I just avoid the idea all together?
454, .060 over, 2 bolt main with mild dome pistons, low 9's compression. Stock heads. (1972)
Straub cam, Q-jet by Lars. Timing is currently set at 30 (or so) with no vac advance hooked up.
Fresh Muncie 4 speed (just rebuilt last winter)
Stock 1972 rear end to include original half shafts.
Can I add a NOS system and not blow myself up or am I inviting a catastrophic failure?
I know that a set of performance heads would really wake this car up, but I cant afford another 2K in parts and all the fine tuning a full teardown will take.
Can I bolt on a simple NOS system or should I just avoid the idea all together?
#2
Burning Brakes
Hmm, no headers and stock 2 bolt mains. You can go 50 to 75HP shot but I would not go any more. you have to add more fuel also.
That little of a shot might THRILL you for a week or two.
How fast you want to go.... How much money do you have
That little of a shot might THRILL you for a week or two.
How fast you want to go.... How much money do you have
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just want something new with the car. A new thrill, a new project. I want a car thats downright scary when I hit the throttle. Ive done all I can do with my 454, Im just looking for an easy bolt on at this point.
Money....??? Yeahhhhhh...Ive got like 1K bucks I can throw at this, nothing more.
When you say 'more fuel', do you mean jetting? I absolutely do not want to phawk with the carb settings beyond mixture screws and idle settings.
Last edited by Scottd; 12-04-2016 at 12:39 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Not jetting, TOM B1 means more fuel from a separate fuel system. NO2 is the oxidizer, it needs additional fuel or the motor will indeed blow up.
#5
Team Owner
I would fix the timing first go to all in at 2800. With about 36 max w/o vacuum adv. Then hook up vac adv to ported vacuum
I've done various setups. I would start with a 150 spray plate with a wot activation switch
I've done various setups. I would start with a 150 spray plate with a wot activation switch
Last edited by gkull; 12-04-2016 at 10:50 AM.
#6
Le Mans Master
I agree with George. I'm not a big fan of nitrous, I can blow stuff up without it. These plate kits come with solenoids for gas and fuel and are pretty well set up. As long as you don't get into the if more is better too much is just right school.
#7
Safety Car
You didn't mention pistons other than "mild dome". Are they forged? If not I don't think you have to worry about the 2 bolt main block being your weak point.
#8
Dementer sole survivor
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what about just putting the money into work on the heads.
1. Porting and planing yours or..
2. a different set of castiron heads with a smaller combustion chamber to up the compression abit and get those worked on. I would think you could get what you want for 1K. Obviously not a high end aluminum set.
3.Summit has edelbrock and Brodix close to your price as well
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rd=454%20heads
1. Porting and planing yours or..
2. a different set of castiron heads with a smaller combustion chamber to up the compression abit and get those worked on. I would think you could get what you want for 1K. Obviously not a high end aluminum set.
3.Summit has edelbrock and Brodix close to your price as well
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rd=454%20heads
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 12-04-2016 at 11:50 AM.
#9
Melting Slicks
As far as the trans and rear end, that depends on your driving. Abusers can break the drivetrain with stock motors. On the flip side, I've seen some pretty high horsepower builds in front of stock drivetrain that held up. Traction will play a big part too.
Mike
#10
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
WOuldnt bother with anything less than 100 shot
More to it than bolting it on, have to make sure your timing is set up/adjustable, need more fuel etc. If you dont want to touch the carb skp nitrous for now. When they get lean they go boom. Bottom end should be fine.
Save for heads or better yet a street blower. Yeah its more but you want to get scared throw 5-6 lbs of boost to a big block that will do it. Doesnt take much.
Sometimes you can score a nice used/refurbished one complete with pulleys intake etc. If I had to do it over again I would absolutely throw a roots blower on it. Plus the look, come on a blower makes EVERY car better.
More to it than bolting it on, have to make sure your timing is set up/adjustable, need more fuel etc. If you dont want to touch the carb skp nitrous for now. When they get lean they go boom. Bottom end should be fine.
Save for heads or better yet a street blower. Yeah its more but you want to get scared throw 5-6 lbs of boost to a big block that will do it. Doesnt take much.
Sometimes you can score a nice used/refurbished one complete with pulleys intake etc. If I had to do it over again I would absolutely throw a roots blower on it. Plus the look, come on a blower makes EVERY car better.
#12
Team Owner
The 150 hp spray bars are very simple. You turn on the N2O bottle ****, you turn on a console arming switch, and as soon as you floor the gas to WOT the solenoid opens to spray N2O and additional fuel.
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Richard Daugird (12-05-2016)
#13
Team Owner
This is an example of a spread bore carb setup. for just over $400 bucks. these things are like an evening of fun per tank
https://holley.com/products/nitrous/...parts/07001NOS
https://holley.com/products/nitrous/...parts/07001NOS
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
This is an example of a spread bore carb setup. for just over $400 bucks. these things are like an evening of fun per tank
https://holley.com/products/nitrous/...parts/07001NOS
https://holley.com/products/nitrous/...parts/07001NOS
If I bolt in this kit, how to I address the variable timing and fuel issues? Im running a HEI Dizzy with Accell ignition (programmable rev limiter) and stock fuel system.
Answers to other posts:
Heads: I have a custom roller cam, matched to my stock heads. If I replace the heads, Ill need a new cam
Blower: Well of COURSE Id love to add a blower, but that involves cutting my hood and adding pulleys (to an already somewhat bubba'd pulley system) and honestly Ive never seen an affordable setup.
Last edited by Scottd; 12-06-2016 at 09:43 PM.
#15
Team Owner
On these low powered systems you don't need the fancy stepped retard control **** kits or hooked into the micro switch.
The rule of thumb is kind of retarding the the timing 1 1/2-2 degrees for every 50 hp. So for a 150 hp before you turn the bottle on retard the mechanic full advance from say 36 to 30 degrees and then hook your vacuum advance back up.
The fuel is just "T" of the fuel inlet line to the carb. You have to have say a solid 7 psi or what ever the kit suggests. Lean is horrible and rich just kills the power.
The rule of thumb is kind of retarding the the timing 1 1/2-2 degrees for every 50 hp. So for a 150 hp before you turn the bottle on retard the mechanic full advance from say 36 to 30 degrees and then hook your vacuum advance back up.
The fuel is just "T" of the fuel inlet line to the carb. You have to have say a solid 7 psi or what ever the kit suggests. Lean is horrible and rich just kills the power.
#16
Melting Slicks
On these low powered systems you don't need the fancy stepped retard control **** kits or hooked into the micro switch.
The rule of thumb is kind of retarding the the timing 1 1/2-2 degrees for every 50 hp. So for a 150 hp before you turn the bottle on retard the mechanic full advance from say 36 to 30 degrees and then hook your vacuum advance back up.
The fuel is just "T" of the fuel inlet line to the carb. You have to have say a solid 7 psi or what ever the kit suggests. Lean is horrible and rich just kills the power.
The rule of thumb is kind of retarding the the timing 1 1/2-2 degrees for every 50 hp. So for a 150 hp before you turn the bottle on retard the mechanic full advance from say 36 to 30 degrees and then hook your vacuum advance back up.
The fuel is just "T" of the fuel inlet line to the carb. You have to have say a solid 7 psi or what ever the kit suggests. Lean is horrible and rich just kills the power.