AdamMeh

Same here. No heat needed here in AZ and it cleaned up the engine compartment.

Adam

gq82

Instead of cutting in gas/water valves or ripping out/capping heater hoses if you were to get the Chassis Service Manual for your year corvette you would see how your HVAC system works and be able to R&R it instead of using in my opinion Bubba fixes.

The figure below is from the Service Manual for my car a 1971. As you can see there are a number of doors that direct heated or outside air through the cabin. The Temp Door which is controlled by the temp thumb wheel on my car opens and closes via a Bowden cable. In a lot of cases the cable binds/disconnects causing the door to remain open allowing heated air into the cabin. Also the seals around this door deteriorate over time. Fix this and your car will feel the way it did when it was driven off the showroom floor......mine does.

superdave269

I found this post helpful it shows the leaks. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...kpit-heat.html

This is another one worth looking at http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.ro...entilation.htm

john 72-04

I by passed my heater core for a different reason. I did it because I drive my car and had no idea if the heater core was the original or not. So.... Not wanting to look over on the passenger side footwell and see a green puddle I decided to just block it off seeings how I never need heat anyway. I can tell you this I am absolutely positive it had no effect on cabin heat. Mine is just as hot inside as it always was. I never thought it was coming from the heater core anyway. Face it these cars are just hot inside they've always been that way. I never had any illusions that blocking off a heater core would stop my console and shifter from getting so hot you can fry eggs on them on 100 degree days. You're sitting on top of allot of hot stuff. To all the people who blocked it off and it helped I'm glad for you. I bet your car is still hot inside though. I love the heat makes me feel like I'm driving a hot rod.

gingerbreadman1977

If your going to put in a valve you might as well do one on each hose. That way if your heater core or hose leaks you can shut of both valves isolating the leak totally and keep driving. 1 valve will only stop the circulation of water if everything is in order.

here is my set up with the valves hardly noticeable.

Blue73Shark

Used one of each on the inlet and outlet hoses on my 73. Reduced the heat a lot.

Big2Bird

You know, gas valves are only good for about 5lbs pressure.

superdave269

The manufacture states working pressure 200 psi.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

billcarson

i have used gas ***** for many things non gas related and they are quick to shut,hold 100%,have no seat to wear out and are installed as garden hose shut offs in my yard.i just checked my drawer of gas ***** and they are rated at 125 and 175 psi.how well they will hold up to heat is unknown to me.

Peterbuilt

A shut off valve(s) helps and some insulation under the carpet and a transmission blanket and foam collar all reduce the heat a little. Also check for missing grommets where the wires go through the firewall and don't forget the lower shifter boot insulation.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...s=transmission insulation

Big2Bird

All I can say is during my remodel, I had to pressure test my house at 5PSI for 15 minutes. All outlets were capped except I just shut off the heater ****. It was the same valve, and failed. After the test, it leaked gas. Inspector said that was common for those.
Your own link said "For low pressure gas after the regulator." That is 1 -2 PSI. Frankly, if it holds, power to you. I just would not trust the 200 PSI statement.

MIKE80

The heat was so bad, it was unbearable. Put these 2 valves in, no more heat problems!

BB72

[/QUOTE]

Thats the cleanest way to do it right there.

MIKE80

The plastic valves just blew on me last night. My bad I changed them out with brass ball valves.

billcarson

these 1000 lb ss valves may look like overkill but it was the heat i was concerned about.they are piped to the pump and manifold to take the rubber out of the equation.two valves for isolation in case of core or hose rupture.

63split63

I used a water shut off valve designed for the newer plastic home plumping ( Pex). It came with 3/4 fittings on each end and is a nice clean fit in the hose. 2 hose clamps , no messy looking fittings on the ends .

Bill

7t9l82

never and i mean never use a plastic valve designed for domestic water. p.v.c isn't used on domestic hotwater. c.p.v.c is used on hot water but not in a 200+ degree engine compartment.

Red 71

I understand your comment here but keep in mind, the original design was poor since it allowed the heater core to be hot at all times and thus you had some radiant heat from the day it came off the showroom floor. So even with all the doors sealed etc. you still can have more heat than necessary. Installing two valves eliminates a factory deficiency!

JMO

MIKE80

I learned the hard way. Still made it back home though.

REELAV8R

use to be that I had to run the ac in max position to get adequate cooling in the cabin and that was only good at hwy speeds. Now with electric fans, bubble foil insulation under the carpet, an extended air dam and the final piece of the puzzle a pex valve at the water pump, my wife actually complains that it is too cold. Took it out yesterday it was 102 degrees only had to run it in normal ac position and it made the cabin a meat locker.
It seems that no one thing alone fixes the cabin heat problem, but all the little stuff adds up to give you an ice cold cabin if you want it.