richardttu

As usual, the simple tasks are difficult. I need to remove the rear brake calipers on my 69 but the bolts just will not come off. I have soaked them with PB blaster and tapped on them with a hammer to try to free them (best I can, there is not much room to work).

I have used both a 6-point socket with ratchet, and an open end wrench. The bolt head is about to round off. Now what?

I would normally grab my Acetylene torch and heat the nut to loosen it, but obviously I cannot do that here. Not to mention the gas tank is right there too. It does not look like I could get I with a sawzall to cut the bolt then easy-out the bolt either.

This is really not a good time for me to remove the trailing arms for a re-build, so I am looking for options.

I am at my "Bill Cosby" moment. ("There will come a time of desperation when you will give the ridiculous a try")

Easy Mike

You need a cheater bar and possibly one of socket types which will grip rounded bolt heads.

Peterbuilt

Those bolts can get very tight. A 6 point 1/2 inch drive socket on a long breaker bar with a pipe on the end might help.
CCW to loosen.

Marlin

Yea I had to use a large breaker bar to get mine off as well.

Also make sure the brake line nut will come off. Mine just twisted the line up. Not a big deal as I bought new ones but just in case you are thinking of re-using yours.

...Roger...

If I remember right you can split the caliper,remove the rotor and get at the back side of the caliper bolts,if that will help you.

Easy Mike

Yep. That's do-able. PITA, but do-able.

7T1vette

I keep an 18" long and a 4' long piece of 1" black-iron pipe in my garage, just for using as breaker-bar extensions. They are very useful when working on brakes or removing the diffy 'fill' plug.

...Roger...

The OP mentioned the head is starting to round off. Now's the time to step back and consider a plan other than more torque.
If he can get to the back side he should be able to heat the caliper bracket the bolt threads into (the nut).
Hopefully he has enough head left to then turn it out.

90vett

Go to sears buy a 5/8 socket grip tite socket,that will take it out.They also have the type that cuts, "if rounded" impact grade in to the bolt head that work real good.

8valve

Heat the caliper bolts hot, but not hot enough to change color. Then touch a candle around the head of the bolt and feed it melting wax. Let it cool till just a warm to touch. Then repeat.
If the candle wax starts to smoke bad or burn, you have heated the bolt way to hot. Use a proper socket to unscrew her. YOu may have to heat and candle wax more than two times on a problem child bolt, but let the heat/wax work before you try to take her out.

8Valve

richardttu

I am just getting home. There are some great ideas here. I hope to get some time in over the weekend. Clearly, more torque is not the answer. Torch, candle and a grip right sound like a plan... Thanks everyone . I will report back

Clams Canino

Yep - same here on my '68.
Bought new bolts - just because.

-W

71rdster

When I got my 66, it needed a brake job right away. The caliper mounting bolts were frozen solid like yours, and were soon rounded off from my efforts to remove them. Torched the heads off of the bolts, which still left plenty of bolt to grab with vice grips on the work bench. I would use the torch as a last resort though. That candle trick sounds pretty good

briankeery

If you use the candle approach, please report back. I'd love to hear how that works.

8valve

When I was 15, working on my first car, to be ready when I got my license, a old German Mechanic taught me the candle trick.
Now 69, I have shared that trick with unknown number of people, both in person and on forums.

Last year on the C4 forum someone was having a problem. I told him about the candle trick. He reported back in amazement how well it worked. I will be first to admit, its not perfect in 100% of the cases, but it has a high track record.

The melted wax wicks into the stuck fastener and loosens the rust and provides lube to remove. Remember, if you heat it to hot and it smokes like crazy, or starts to burn, your way to hot.
The heated fastener wants to be just hot enough to easily
melt the wax and let it flow.

Good Luck, as mentioned, please give us a report if you choose to try the candle trick

8Valve

69 Chevy

That was most likely before the advent of PB Blaster or Kano Kroil.

8valve

I have tried all that 'snake oil' in the spray cans, even home brew stuff. Nothing works like the candle trick. You have to try the candle trick a few times to be a believer. I have never found the spray can 'snake oil' to work well.

8Valve

richardttu

My apologies for my delayed response. My life spiraled out of control there for a little while. The kind of things that remind you what is really important.

However I did finish up the brake install yesterday. I admit I was skeptical, but the candle trick worked on most of the bolts. I had three where it just did not work. Either the bolts were too tight, too corroded, operator error, or some combination of all of the above. Not wanting to do the torch routine unless I had too, I bought a set of grip rights at Sears, and they were able to get the last three bolts off. Installing the new calipers and master cylinder was a breeze by comparison.

It did take a while to bleed the brakes. It was not hard, just took a long time to properly bleed them. Anyway, both suggestions did in fact work, so I thank you all for the advice...

8valve

Glad to gear the Candle Trick worked.........most of the time.

Pass the trick along to others when they are fighting stuck fasteners.

Your did well !

8Valve

briankeery

Awesome Richard, thanks for the update......I'm actually looking for seized up nuts/bolts to try this out!!!!! Glad to hear you're back with us; hope all is well...