spdrcr29

Hey guys, Doing a body off restoration and slowly going back together now. Today I thought I would tackle the front coil springs. However, they are kicking my butt. Trying a form of Wilcox's method to compress the spring. When I started with going together, I noticed a hole at the bottom of the control arm as well as a hole at the top of the spring pocket where the end of the spring should sit. I had read somewhere a while ago that you should put a bolt in both of these holes and turn the spring until the end of the spring comes in contact with the bolts. Once everything was in place, you should remove the bolt thus providing an area for water to drain out.

I was wondering if there is any truth to this or should I simply turn the spring ends all the way until they cover the holes and sit flush with the stops built into the spring pocket and lower control arm?

Below are photos of the areas in question. Any guidance would be much appreciated!

72LS1Vette

The assembly manual calls for lining the spring up in the top hole. I used a screwdirver in the hole since the end of the spring should cover ~1/2 of the hole. If you have aftermarket springs chances are the bottom of the spring won't align with that hole anyway.

BTW, nice job on the frame.



Rick B.

spdrcr29

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the comments on the frame. My wife says it will be too nice when its done that I won't want to drive it!

I did get one spring in place a short time ago, but noticed that neither end of the spring lines up with the holes I referenced above. If I spun the spring so the end of it would align with the top hole, the bottom was about 1 1/2 inches away from the hole in the bottom of the control arm. So I then spun the spring so that the ends of the top and bottom of the spring were equal distance from those holes (about 3/4 - 1 inch away). Yes, I do have 460LB aftermarket springs from Vette Brakes.

I have the AIM, Chassis manual, and Shop Manual, but cannot find anywhere that references aligning the end of the top of the spring so that it covers 1/2 of the hole like you mentioned. Maybe I am missing it in my assembly manual, but I cannot find any reference to this.

Where in your assembly manual did you find this info? Is there a way you can post it or PM it to me?

Thanks!

Brian

Mooser

Mine are also just so I can see the spring in the hole (bottom)
The one thing to really watch is that it doesn't go past the hole, then it lifts the spring up out of the groove, sits higher, makes funny noises when it moves, etc.

I'll second the nice job on the frame comment
Mooser

spdrcr29

Thanks for your input Mooser!

I did find in my AIM that the spring should be .38 +/-.12 from the end of the top spring end stop. So I made some adjustments from what I had before. The top of the spring now covers approximately 1/2 of the top hole (photo 1). However, the bottom of the spring now sits about 1 1/2 inches away from the hole in the bottom of the contrrol arm (photo 2).

Do you guys think this will be an issue? Again, I do have aftermarket 460LB springs from Vette Brakes.

Thanks again!

Brian

Mooser

I don't remember and can't see that area right now.
Does the top have the same tapered type pocket that follows the spring?
If it does (I think so) align the top to the hole like you have and leave it.

If it doesn't and it's flat all the way around (I don't thing so) align the bottom and forget the top

The bottom is ahead of the hole (shallow) so it'll sit proper, if it was behind the hole (past it) there would be an issue

When it settles a little it will move a tiny bit closer.

Make sure the other side is the same and move along, everything looks good
Mooser

Tangelo79

I third the beautiful frame vote! Thanks for posting this as i have a pair of vb 550# in my garage i need to install!

bhk2

I replaced main springs in my 69 a few months ago. With the lower ca hanging, I positioned the spring in top spring pocket first and immediately noticed that the resulting angle would make seating the spring in the lower-ca groove challenging.

Really had to push the spring in toward the center of the car while working the floor jack to slowly move lower ca up. Many failed attempts before it seated correctly. Trial and error. The experience of installing one side did not make the other side any easier. However, I knew what I was trying to accomplish and that it was possible.

Ditto the previous comments about the frame

oldalaskaman

if you're using wilcox's method, I used the rear spring bolt 10" from my C4, seat the upper end first, draw the spring up high enough allow seating of both ends of the spring, while using your floor jack to lift the lower C/A, it will work , and make sure to seat the ends of the spring coils in their seats. if you have a small pipe wrench you can use it to turn the spring and get it seated

lars

The hole in the top is the spring "clocking" hole to make sure right and left springs are clocked the same so the front ride height will be the same from side-to-side. The hole in the lower arm is a water drain hole to prevent water build-up in the spring pocket recess in the lower arm - do not install the spring so that it covers or plugs that lower hole - use only the top hole for clocking reference. I've seen the lower hole covered up, resulting in complete rust-out of the lower arm spring pocket.

Lars

oldalaskaman

good tech. forgot bout that

lars

spdrcr29

Thanks guys for all of your nice comments about my frame and guidance with installing the springs today. I was able to get both springs installed as well as a few other miscellaneous items. I think this should pretty well cover this thread!

For your viewing pleasure, I have added a few more pics I thought you all would like...

Now if I could only hire Rogman to do some body work for me!! LOL~

Thanks again!

Brian