scottyp99

I have used Kroil, and it is pricey, but it makes WD-40 look like an ugly stepsister. No exaggeration, it works noticeably better than WD-40 or PB blaster. Soak it for a few days, and put the heat right to the bolt, till it's red hot, then let cool. Then, gentle heat around the bolt, and attack it with the vice grips. If that doesn't work, remove the intake and take it to a pro. You can probably have somebody remove them for, like, 20-30 bucks. It'll be worth it. Good luck, I'm rooting for ya!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

jcloving

pb blaster or aerokroil and some time to penetrate. Whack them with a hammer after that. Vise Grips are a great idea. I have had good luck with a small (5") pipe wrench too. I would only go with helicoils if the bolt was flush with the intake.

The bolt extractors work well too. I have some but fortunately have not yet had to use them.

69 Chevy

Kroil, PB blaster, WD-40 whatever, the only recommendation is to let it soak. I'm surprised no one suggested tapping the bolt remains with a ball peen hammer to set up vibration to further the penetrating action.

I have found Snap-On (Blue-Point actually) 3/8" bolt extractor TFSY121 works well.
http://www.amdp.fr/OutillageIndustri...icher/id/17911

Especially on a 3/8" bolt that still has some threads showing. Works especially well on an impact wrench as the banging of the anvil sets up vibrations that tend to break the rust bonds.

Even if the aluminum strips out after the rusty bolts are removed, there's always helicoils.

EDIT: typing while jcloving made his post.

Mgrad92

The cautions on using a torch right next to the fuel line are well taken. So I got a crazy idea. Instead of heating the manifold, why not try and cool the old studs? Maybe by holding a small piece of dry ice in top of the bolt, you could get enough of a temperature differential to break that bond.
Can't hurt, right?

scottyp99

I am surprised, myself, that i didn't mention giving the bolts a few good, hard whacks with a hammer. Get the vice grip on there, and give a few smacks while trying to turn the bolt, too.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

chevygod

Done the trick with a MIG welder a few times with good results, no nuts, just weld a glob on the end and grip with viceygrips. gotta get the broken bolt really hot, let cool, usually cooks out all of the corrosion and crud between the bolt and the surrounding metal and the bolt usually comes right out. Usually.

Learned and did this years ago when I worked at Raytheon building radar equipment on aluminum wave guides with broken off stainless screws. Really a pretty cool trick.

Definetly pull the manifold for safety's sake.

Tom

Tim H

If I was pulling the intake for repairs, I would buy a brand new one!

chevygod

Oh, definetly if the intake is unimportant, throw it out. But if the offending intake is not replaceable...? Or if a correct casting date is important...?

I was more outlining a method that works on stuck bolts in different materials for use by anyone that has a MIG, or access to one. Last time I used it was on an OT MR2 Turbo motor that my friend had just installed. Got a damaged manifold stud out that would have required removing the head or motor. He was seriuosly jazzed.

Best,
Tom

Jack Wood

I'd limit my efforts on repairs to an hour then just go buy one and be done with it. Broken bolts, EZ outs, welding, back and forth to buy tools, etc. could turn it into a nightmare and you still wouldn't have improved anything. An aftermarket manifold will work better, look prettier and boost your self-esteem. "Always advance, never dig in." - Gen. George Patton.

scottyp99

Why would you buy a new manifold when you have one that is most likely perfectly serviceable with a little work? Not all of us have a money tree out in the back yard, ya know. Soak it for a couple days with Kroil or something, heat the bolt red hot, let it cool down, apply a little heat around the bolt, smack it with a hammer a few times, and try to remove it with vise grips. If you don't have luck right away, take it off and let a pro take a crack at it. Cheaper than a new intake manifold. Unless you want a new intake, then buy a new intake.

And make it snappy, I want to know how this comes out!!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

scottyp99

Hmmmm.......that does sound crazy........so crazy, it just might work!!!!!!

I'm just kidding, actually, although it does sound crazy, it really doesn't sound so crazy it just might work. Just, like, regular crazy. Anyway, what you're doing when you heat the crap out of the bolt, is hopefully making it expand a little, before the heat starts to expand the bolt hole, kind of squishing whatever crud is in there holding it. I think that's what makes the MIG method so effective, it's a lot of heat in a very short period of time. Then, once it's cool, apply a little heat around the bolt. What you're trying to do here is to expand the bolt hole, but not the bolt. There is probably not a whole lot that is keeping the bolt from turning, it may not take much to break it loose. Then again, it might. Won't know till you take a crack at it!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

jnb5101

i defintely want to know how this turns out. pardon me. but people are advising torches, dry ice, welding nuts on, vice grips, hammers, every thing except an atomic bomb.
if you took this manifold to a machine shop, how would they handle the problem? shoot a laser at it?! no, they'd drill it out and retap it. why? because it is the quickest, safest, most predictable technique. they don't want to have to buy you a new manifold when screw this one up.
if those studs are frozen tightly enough to snap the heads off, do you really think a pair of vise grips is going to move them? and if you drill out the bolt to use an extractor, what do you do when the super hard extractor breaks off in the bolt? you might as well just drill it out all the way and retap.
sorry, that's just my opinion, gained from rebuilding three of these rusty clunkers.

Tim H

Yes because those bolts twisted before they broke off because of length.
I have done it before, just clamp the grips on the bolt and work back and forth and if they aren't bottomed out they will loosen up and come out.
Replacing the intake would be about as cheap as getting it fixed if you take it off.
A machine shop charges at least $35 an hour plus parts and the looks of the intake it probably needs bead blasted, that is another $25.
Now here is the tricky part, intake gaskets are $16.
That is $76.
This manifold is $107 out of Summit plus shipping.

But if you can get the bolts out of the old one without removing it your out a few$$$ and time and thats it.

Mgrad92

The winner of round one is.....
The bolts. Still frozen solid. Vice grips were ineffective. BP blaster let me down. Nut type bolt removers were ineffective and I wasn't going to apply more heat than I could get f rom a heat gun while the manifold was still on your car. ( I knew that wasn't going to be enough, but what the heck, it was worth a shot.)
So tomorrow the manifold comes off and I'll take it to my buddy's place. He has a torch and we can really get some heat on it. If they come put, we can media blast the manifold. If it only costs me a beer, I would like to keep the original intake. Otherwise, that piece above looked mighty tempting...

scottyp99

I will give you a double-your-money-back guarantee that once you hit those bolts with the old blue wrench, they will come right out!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

Indiancreek

I agree with the method, I don't agree that if you do it by hand you have to ruin the intake
necessarily. It would just take a lot of caution to not damage it. The heat generated by the weld will help loosen the studs and or get lubricant to the threads.

If your welding skills aren't that good, drill and tap or helicoil. A time-sert (if you can find a kit with the correct tread) would be better than helicoil.

Remember when a bolt goes into aluminum, anti sieze is your friend.

my 76 ray

Everybody who is suggesting heating the bolts is saying to let it cool. From watching muffler shops heat exhaust manifold bolts and take them off red hot with an inpact wrench that is what I have always done. Just don't pick up the nut or bolt for a long time. Are you recommending to let it cool because the intake manifold is aluminum?

Also, doesn't aluminum melt at a lower temperature than steel? Is it safe to use an Oxy-Acetelyne torch to heat those bolts?

billla

Aluminum melts at around 660 degrees. A torch can deliver around 3,500 degrees. Just a heads-up.

Since the manifold is coming off...a shop would probably charge you maybe $50 to fixture it in a drill press and professionally and correctly (straight, etc.) drill out the bolts and helicoil.

Even if the bolts come out, the threads are buggered and you'll still need to drill and helicoil...and you better get the holes straight. By the time you're all done screwing around a shop could have it done 10x over. I'm a DIY guy, but this is a time where a shop can do something quick and easy.

70BBvert

I've succesfully used the candle wax trick many times. Heat the manifold, not the stud. You want the manifold to expand with heat more than the stud. Drip candle wax at the bottom of the stud, capillary action draws the wax in & helps free up the bolt. A few wacks with a hammer helps too. You may have to repeat the cycle several times.

Good luck

Jim

Red 69

I can't resist throwing my 2 cents into the ring. Since you have an aluminum manifold, I would refrain from heating it because of the low melting point of aluminum. I also would only use a vise grip as a last resort, as continued teeth slipping on the broken stud will shave and weaken the remaining metal. Welding a nut to the top of the stud will concentrate heat to the target area. While still hot, apply candle wax to the base and let it cool. If your weld has good penetration, you will be able to use it to back the stud out with a wrench. This technique has worked for me several times, even with the most stubborn broken studs. Good luck!