Stewart Stage II Pump Rubbing Pulley
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Easton pennsylvania
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stewart Stage II Pump Rubbing Pulley
I just received my new Stewart Stage II Aluminum water pump today. When I test fit everything up, I notice that the stock pulley rubs the housing at the heater house fitting. I mean it just makes contact. Has anyone had this problem? I was going to get an aftermarket billet pulley, will this help? Should I slightly grind away the point where the contact is made? Do they make shims? Im talking 1/16 would be more than I need to clear it.
Also, where can I get a new heater hose fitting and plug for the yop of the pump.
Thanks
- X
Also, where can I get a new heater hose fitting and plug for the yop of the pump.
Thanks
- X
#4
Burning Brakes
You can grind it, or you can purchase waterpump shims that will move the pulley away from the pump housing. They come in a 3-pack, different sizes, and fit between the pump pulley and the pump shaft. I bought mine at Auto-Zone - less than $5.00.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Easton pennsylvania
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I saw a few other posts on the topic. Guess it is somewhat common.
Any ideas if a new pulley would help? Was going to get one to dress the front up a bit. Should I stay away from the 50 dollar ones I see on Jegs and eBay for fear of poor quality?
Any where can I get the plumbing hardware from?
Any ideas if a new pulley would help? Was going to get one to dress the front up a bit. Should I stay away from the 50 dollar ones I see on Jegs and eBay for fear of poor quality?
Any where can I get the plumbing hardware from?
#7
Burning Brakes
I would think most pulleys are fine - they are all one piece stamped metal. Plumbing fittings can be found at any hardware store, or the usual car parts stores.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Easton pennsylvania
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If I get a new pulley, I would go wth an Aluminum machined one. Some people have said that the cheap ones are junk and may have quality/balance issues.. I dont see how if they are machined.
#9
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2012
Location: Sonoma Ca.
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
let me guess the heater hose boss doesn't have a indentation like chevy pumps have and its rubbing on the back of the pulley, once you file it its yours, I had the same problem with another after market pump odds are made in China, I returned it and got a Edel pump and it fit right, the heater boss may look thick but remember its Alum. and if you deduct for the 1/2" pipe threads cut into it its really not that thick I was worried about cracking when I tighten the hose adapter in if I filed on it, the spacer kit comes in 1/16, 1/8. 3/16 or a combination there of, you might be able to get away with a 1/16 wp shim anymore then that most likely you will have to shim the rest of the pullies, the plug for the top of the pump is I believe 1/2" pipe, another thing to think about on those billit pullies are they are about a 1/4" thick at the mounting, make sure you have more than a 1/4 from shaft flange to the end of the shaft so you have enough shaft to center your fan, I've seen people have problems when shimming a billit pulley.
Last edited by anips; 03-29-2012 at 10:16 AM.
#10
Team Owner
I tried to find my pictures of how I machined my water pump on a verticle mill
#12
Team Owner
I used common pipe thread bass plugs.
Machined on a Vertical mill for pulley clearance
Machined on a Vertical mill for pulley clearance