longbros

I have a 1970 350/350 with the copper radiator and plastic shroud. I am installing a new radiator and using the original shroud. I put the radiator in, but can't seem to get the shroud in. I tried putting the shroud in first, but then I could not get the radiator in. Is there a trick to this, or am I just missing something?
Thanks.

Red 69

This is why so many shrouds have been cut, you are not alone with this problem. As I recall, it has been a long time, they go in together as a unit.

MelWff

you loosen the radiator support by removing the bolts on each side and loosen the two bolts under the support. You also may have to remove the support rod in front of the radiator. You than push it forward and drop the radiator/shroud in as a unit. This process permits you to clear the upper A-arms which prevent the shroud from dropping in.

scottyp99

This doesn't have anything to do with how to install the radiator, but here's a tip: Tape a piece of cardboard to the front and back of the radiator, to protect it from getting dinged while installing it, especially if it's an aluminum rad. They are delicate. Oh, and don't forget to remove it before starting the car up, or it will noticeably reduce the rad's cooling efficiency.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

longbros

It seems like a drastic move having to shift the position of the core support, but honestly, I don't see any other way to get them both in, either seperately or together as a unit. I did not move the core support to get the old radiator out, but it was months ago and I just don't remember how I did it. I would prefer not to cut or bust up the orginal shroud.

JimT

I just replaced my old copper/brass radiator with a Dewitts A70A direct fit radiator. The only way I could install it (even with the water pump out) was to install the radiator then split the bottom of the shroud so that I could squeeze the two sides of the shroud together, then drop it into place. The major problem is the upper A arm ends - they have to fit into the indents on the shroud.
Then once installed, I applied a thin bead of black adhesive to cement the two pieces together. After installing the bottom shroud band you cannot see where it was cut. It looks and works great.

1974ta

I have a 70 350/350 as you know. I did them separately without modification. I found it to be a big help to remove the top two bolts on both sides of the support so it could move it around. Loosen the bottom two so it will pivot. I also left all the other bolts loose on the support for a little more movement. It was a very very tight squeeze to get around the A arms but the shroud finally went in. I think it was easier to get the one side in and then the other too. I remember having to get the passenger side of the shroud in first and then the drivers. Be very careful not to damage the threads on the fasteners at the bottom.

Enjoy


Bill

wombvette

Another method other than leaning the support is to remove the RH upper control arm. With the correct tools, its not too hard, and you don't have to remove the spring.

alfaspiderman

I just experienced this dilemma with my 72 sb copper. I installed a recored radiator and a new water pump,then tried to get the shroud on. I tried loosening all 6 side bolts and the lower bracker bolts. This did not work. I removed the upper hose, and moved the a/c compressor, then forced it into place. The idea of corrugated board to protect the fins is highly reccommended. I bent a few fins in the process....next for me is the belts and brake system then on the road!!!!

68-427Rich

This is just not a fun job. Jack up the front of your car, place jack stands under the lower control arms. Remove the wheels. Loosen the nuts holding your upper control arm shafts. Remove and label the alignment shims. Now remove the bolts that hold the upper control arm shafts. Raise the front of the upper control arm and slide it back, out of the way. This is the "trick" to installing the radiator/fan shroud at the same time. You may or may not have to remove components from the front of the engine.

BarryK

shgroud must go in first than slide the rad in. Once the rad is in you will NEVER get the shroud in without cutting it which you don't want to do and no reason why you should have to.

unbolt the top 2 side bolts of the core support and tilt it forward towards the headlight vacu. cannisters, slide in the shroud and tilt it back towards the motor (i basically "hung" it off the fan), than slide in the radiator.
Now you can pull back and rebolt the core support and position the shroud.

I ended up R&R'ing the rad in y '78 about 7-8 times. It's NOT fun but if you follow this procedure you don't have to cut the shroud or have to remove the A-Arm

7T1vette

Shroud first; radiator last. The radiator must be 'tilted' in on the right side, so the lower outlet fitting can clear the A-arm. Likewise, the shroud must be tilted in to place on the left side; it also needs to be bent close to the limit of its strength so that it will just wedge into place.

I would strongly advise that you make a single cut through the plastic shroud...from front to back, at midline on the very bottom of the part. And, when you make that cut, also drill (4) 1/8" holes and fabricate a metal plate/strip, so that it can be attached at the bottom of the shroud with a Pop-rivet gun, once installed. The grief you will have trying to get that shroud back into place is just not worth the effort, unless you have a pristine, award winning car.

Roco71

I guess there is a difference if your car has AT/AC or not My 71 does and the shroud is two pieces. The bottom half is described as an extension and screws into the top. None the less the shroud goes in first.

BarryK

my C3 had both AT and AC - the AC meaning a condensor in front of the rad leaving less room to tilt the core support forward and I still did NOT find the need to cut the shroud.
In fact, with the shroud pushed back and basically hung on the fan it was not in the way at all and with the rad slide back into place the shroud positioned easily.
I don't understand why everyone wants to cut the shroud when it's not needed or desired

lars

I've done several of these and never had an issue:

Remove the fan off the water pump. Drop the shroud in place and shove it up against the front of the engine (rearward) as far as it will go. You can then drop the radiator in at a slight angle, wiggle it around to make the lower hose outlet clear the a-arm, and it drops right into place. Once in, you lift it up slightly and pull the shroud forward to mate up. No problem - takes about 10 minutes to do by yourself, but it helps to have a second person on the opposite side of the car to help support and drop the radiator in.

Lars

longbros

Okay, tomorrow I will pull the radiator out, put the shroud in first and then try the radiator again. I tried this once, but could not seem to make it work. This is holding me up now, as the rebuilt engine is ready to fire up, just need to connect the radiator, shroud, hoses, fan, and alternator.

JimT

I have a feeling that not every corvette radiator install situation is exactly the same. On my '72, none of the "slide the shroud in first" methods worked, and the install the radiator first method would not work either. Removing the a arms seems like a heck of a lot of trouble. Maybe not all shrouds are the same size? With my shroud fully installed, the upper a-arm bolts are less than 1/2 inch from the shroud indent. Don't forget to install new radiator and shroud seals - these also take up space and will tear easily if you are dealing with a tight fit!

On my install we tried tilting, pushing, radiator in first, last, etc. I even removed the waterpump but still could not make it fit, We didn't want to cram it in possibly damaging the core. We decided on splitting the bottom of the shroud - with a coping saw to keep the cut as narrow as possible - and the install was simple; no pushing, cramming, or removing anything. The cut allowed us to squeeze the shroud sides together thus clearing the a arms, then the shroud dropped in place. Using a thin 3M black adhesive/sealer completly hides any indication of a cut, especially after the fan is installed - you can't see the bottom of the shroud through the fan anyway.

Roco71

I have done this two times on my 71 and as I was reading all the post I did not understand about all the turning and tilting that was going on. Then it accrued to me that both times I did it the hood was off.

TWINRAY

Just did this - 'course it helped I have no front end on

With the copper radiator and shrould, the best way (and maybe only way) to do it is as a 3 piece unit - radiator support, rad, shroud. It'll mean taking off the hood and taking out radiator support/inner fender bolts. This is why shrouds have been cut.






You then don't have to remove the water pump or fan assembly.

longbros

Well, after several more frustrating attempts at installing the radiator/shroud, I caved in and split the shroud down the center at the bottom as suggested. It then took ten seconds, ten seconds, to drop the shroud in place. This is not a show car, and when I am going down the road having a blast driving this car, I can't see that fine line at the bottom of the shroud, so it doesn't bother me one bit. Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions.