How Does One Remove the Drivers Air Vent to Get To the Rivets for Body Mount 1
#1
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2011
Location: Cinci OH
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How Does One Remove the Drivers Air Vent to Get To the Rivets for Body Mount 1
Hello All:
I have a 74 Corvette Non A/C Corvette Convertible and had to remove the body mount bracket number one due to the rust and corrosion on the bracket.
I have the bracket removed and that was a challenge to remove. I removed the vacuum canister and it gave me room to get a 5 1/4 electric cutoff wheel in after about two hours trying to remove the bolt with tools. The problem was that the top of the bolt like the bracket had rust issues and did not fit properly. I even got my special tools that allow one to remove stripped bolts.
So the bottom line the bracket is off and the new is ready to install and I even have new bolt and nut and washers and the rubber mounting hardware. The problem is that it seems that some engineer thought it would be fun to design the rivets to go behind the vent and only show the inner two if one reaches in the vent system. I think two guys at a bar after many drinks sought this prime real estate out to place the bracket for future attempts to get to.
Seriously I have removed the outer cover and see the vent system and removed the cable to the center butterfly venting system and the bolt to the brace under the dash.
If anyone has some tips on how to remove the vent without breaking it or a trick to get the bracket support attached to the firewall it would be greatly appreciated.
I bought the companion piece with the little aluminum rivets to go to the bracket. (I actually wonder what the weight or strength the five little rivets have but will play the game and attempt to install it with the parts.)
Any help on removing the left vent without smashing to assist attachment of the bracket is appreciated.
I have a 74 Corvette Non A/C Corvette Convertible and had to remove the body mount bracket number one due to the rust and corrosion on the bracket.
I have the bracket removed and that was a challenge to remove. I removed the vacuum canister and it gave me room to get a 5 1/4 electric cutoff wheel in after about two hours trying to remove the bolt with tools. The problem was that the top of the bolt like the bracket had rust issues and did not fit properly. I even got my special tools that allow one to remove stripped bolts.
So the bottom line the bracket is off and the new is ready to install and I even have new bolt and nut and washers and the rubber mounting hardware. The problem is that it seems that some engineer thought it would be fun to design the rivets to go behind the vent and only show the inner two if one reaches in the vent system. I think two guys at a bar after many drinks sought this prime real estate out to place the bracket for future attempts to get to.
Seriously I have removed the outer cover and see the vent system and removed the cable to the center butterfly venting system and the bolt to the brace under the dash.
If anyone has some tips on how to remove the vent without breaking it or a trick to get the bracket support attached to the firewall it would be greatly appreciated.
I bought the companion piece with the little aluminum rivets to go to the bracket. (I actually wonder what the weight or strength the five little rivets have but will play the game and attempt to install it with the parts.)
Any help on removing the left vent without smashing to assist attachment of the bracket is appreciated.
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
Posts: 10,883
Received 3,150 Likes
on
2,079 Posts
I spent most of the day under the car wiping everything down with varsol and mineral spirits so this could be a hallucination
It seems to me either the entire flap-door, or just the pivot rod slips up enough to disengage from the bottom hole and then it pivots and drops out. (I replaced the foam gaskets on mine a couple of years ago and had to get both out onto the bench)
I don't have any pics of that to help
Mooser
It seems to me either the entire flap-door, or just the pivot rod slips up enough to disengage from the bottom hole and then it pivots and drops out. (I replaced the foam gaskets on mine a couple of years ago and had to get both out onto the bench)
I don't have any pics of that to help
Mooser
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi C3,
Mooser's right.
There's just room so that you can move the whole door up enough so the bottom pin can come out of it's hole. The rubber flap on the door compresses so the door can move.
Regards,
Alan
Mooser's right.
There's just room so that you can move the whole door up enough so the bottom pin can come out of it's hole. The rubber flap on the door compresses so the door can move.
Regards,
Alan
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
Posts: 10,883
Received 3,150 Likes
on
2,079 Posts
Head slightly clearer today but it makes things worse.
I can't see mine right now but it there two separate pins, top and bottom, for some reason I have this image of a spring loaded pin that you pulled up (or down) on using a needle nose plier and that released to flapper. The another pin or rod that the cable hooked to, seems to me it's just a loop over the end, might have a spring washer to keep it from falling off but I don't think so..
Unfortunately, I also think this may have been on my old Nova.
Lets go with Alan's answer, so ignore this completely
I can't see mine right now but it there two separate pins, top and bottom, for some reason I have this image of a spring loaded pin that you pulled up (or down) on using a needle nose plier and that released to flapper. The another pin or rod that the cable hooked to, seems to me it's just a loop over the end, might have a spring washer to keep it from falling off but I don't think so..
Unfortunately, I also think this may have been on my old Nova.
Lets go with Alan's answer, so ignore this completely
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi,
Mooser's memory is just fine.
One of the pins is spring loaded. From the picture I can't tell if it's top or bottom.... when you move the door the spring compresses and the door come out.
My picture is from pre-digital days, and so fuzzy, I'm ashamed to post it.
Regards,
Alan
Mooser's memory is just fine.
One of the pins is spring loaded. From the picture I can't tell if it's top or bottom.... when you move the door the spring compresses and the door come out.
My picture is from pre-digital days, and so fuzzy, I'm ashamed to post it.
Regards,
Alan
#6
Instructor
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Westminster MD
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, Alan is right. The front clip on my 68 is off so I just walked out to the garage and check it, the top pin is spring loaded so just lift up and swing the bottom out.
#7
Drifting
Hi,
Mooser's memory is just fine.
One of the pins is spring loaded. From the picture I can't tell if it's top or bottom.... when you move the door the spring compresses and the door come out.
My picture is from pre-digital days, and so fuzzy, I'm ashamed to post it.
Regards,
Alan
Mooser's memory is just fine.
One of the pins is spring loaded. From the picture I can't tell if it's top or bottom.... when you move the door the spring compresses and the door come out.
My picture is from pre-digital days, and so fuzzy, I'm ashamed to post it.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Red 69; 02-28-2012 at 10:05 PM.