BKbroiler

It looks and sounds good to me. Congratulations.

zwede

Starter motor burning up???

kortensi

It could be, but I hope not.

It's a brand new MSD starter. (Well it's about 2 years old, but 1st time being used)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-5095/

I just need to get her front end in the air, get under her, and then see what starts smoking.

kortensi

If this starter is what is smoking and is bad, does anyone have recommendations on one that they have had success with?




Also, Lessons learned so far:
BeCool radiator - the drain plug is closed when it is unscrewed.
have a bowl and towels handy when filling fluids

After priming the oil and putting the distributor back in, plug the wires to the MSD box back into the distributor.
Don't put the distributor in backwards.

You must be a contortionist to get the plugs out and back in.
A back fire will set off car alarms. have the keys handy.

Timing light connection to the battery for power will not come anywhere close to reaching.



KO

kortensi

I've had this conversation with several guys at work and I am getting a lot of conflicting info. I hope that one of the many engine building experts can chime in.

So when I start the engine and hit the timing light, what is the number that I want to see at idle?
When I rev it to 2500 RPMs to break the cam what should it read?
There is no vacuum advance on the distributor.

This is the harbor fright timing gun that I have:
http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-...nce-40963.html


And here is the Specs again:

350 4 bolt main bored out to 383
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 64 cc chamber 170 cc intake
Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap Intake Manifold
Holley Carb 4160 750 cfm 4 barrel, vacuum, Dual Inlet, square bore electric choke
MSD ProBillet Tach Drive HEI Distributor
MSD 6 AL Ignition Box analog CD with rev limiter
Sealed Power Piston Rings, Chrome
Sealed Power Forged Piston, Flat top, ring groves
Crane Rocker Arms, aluminum full roller, stud mount
Crane Cam & Lifters, Hydraulic flat tappet, advanced duration 284/284, Lift .480/.480
Scat 9000 Crankshaft stroker 383 crank
Edelbrock fuel pump Mechanical Performer series, 110 gph, 6 psi
Arp bolts all the way around.

Thanks
KO

ezobens

For cam break-in, I usually try to keep my total advance around 30-32 degrees @ 2500 to prevent cooking of the exhaust valves.
Idle timing is going to be 30-32 minus what your distributor advance puts in at 2500. That should get you ball park.

As far as driving, I think most folks with your average performance build try to have 32-36 degrees total in by 3000 RPM (mechanical). It all depends on how your distributor was set-up (you did get it curved, right?).
It's surprising how many folks spend tons of money on a rebuild and never check the distributor curve. Never trust what the manufacturer says it's curved to on the box, I've never seen it accurate.

I connect my timing light to the charging post on the alternator- No need to run wires all over the car. Just make sure you don't short it to ground!

Elm

billla

Set initial timing manually to about 16 degrees; you want it to fire right away. Don't worry about setting timing during break-in; do it after.

As an aside, you're not going to be happy with no vacuum advance on the street.

Jack Wood

I used to forget it and crank, crank, crank, call friends, ask for their help, etc. before collecting my wits and checking the simple stuff.

kortensi

So I've been away for a long while. I'm finally able to get back to the Vette. She has been sitting this whole time.

I've got a MSD 8572 Distributor w/ vacuum advance coming in soon to replace the 8571 w/o vacuum advance. (Anyone in the market for a very lightly used almost new distributor?)

Once it comes in and I get it installed, should the initial timing still be at about 16? is that with or without the vacuum advance connected?

Also, the white smoke was coming from the breather in the valve cover not the starter.

I figured out why the fans were not coming on. I had them wired to the correct temperature switch in the head that came with the BeCool radiator, however, I also had the temperature gauge wire wired to the same place. I figured out that a temperature sender is different from a temperature switch. I have a sender coming in as well. I will just need to rewire the gauge to the other side of the car. Once I removed the temperature gauge wire, the fans kicked in as needed.

srcuster

We just did our first start a few weeks ago. Before starting, we primed the cam with a tool from Advance Auto. It spins the cam from the Distributor chamber. Your breakin willl discolor the headers. We put water in the radiator but I wish now we would have put the antifreeze with it. Engine heated up real fast, too fast for my comfort. You can see our start up after breakin on Youtube "1974 corvett, stingray, 40,000 miles" Took us two summers on this renovation. Good luck. the mufflers are straight through flows.

Doug1

so there's your excuse to buy yourself a nice fan for the garage, if not 2, i've got a nice high velocity fan from Sam's club. makes working in garage on summer days bearable, not enjoyable, but bearable. lol, good luck btw

Doug1

thats why u connect to large wire that bolts to alternator