Steve Straus

My Victor Jr. has a 5.15" pad height, and the hood BARELY doesn't shut with the carb on there. My LS-6 intake is the perfect height, but it wont cover the intake runners on my Canfields.

Does anyone know of an intake with a 4.5" pad height?

I hate corvette engine bays....

Clink69

Steve,

Would a Torker or Torker II fit, and does that meet your requirements?

Chris

:flag

BSiegPaint

You might look at the Weiand Stealth - depending on your exact application, they have some models that are quite short. Gonna be close, though!

Flareside

I don't know of any that are 4.5" all the way across. The Weiand 7513 is 4.5 in the front and 6" in the back to match the typical tapered hood. BB hoods require that the air cleaner be lower in the front than in the back.

FYI, I removed .5" from the flange of my Vic Jr. to make it match the taper of my hood. Fits perfect with my stock L36 drop base, K&N 2.8" filter, and Xtreme filter top. I wasn't willing to move to a manifold that uses an exhaust crossover (Weiand, Torker II), because they have much smaller ports and a flat floor to make room for the crossover.

Steve Straus

How did you remove .5 from the flange? The options I'm faced with at this point are going to an L88 hood or putting an oval port torker II on with my LARGE rect port canfield heads. The L88 is such a gaudy looking hood, I'd really like to find a way around it. Plus I just spent a lot of money on the hood I have now.

Will using the Oval port intake be a problem? Yes, I know it'll cost me a few HP. I'll put a bigger hood and my Victor Jr. back on someday, but what I need to know is will it work?

Stingy74

Anyone good machine shop could mill however much off you want and at whatever angle.

Flareside

I removed most of the material with a hacksaw, then finished up with a belt sander and hand file. In retrospect, it would have probably been easier to have a machine shop do it (it took like 5 hours!). I heli-coiled the carb stud holes at the same time to strengthen them. There was plenty of material.

I'm definitely with you on the hood issue. Keep the stock body lines if at all possible, it's a classic! The L88 will cost you a small fortune once you get the hood, paint, airbox, air cleaner base, spark arrestors, etc.

The oval port intake will certainly work if it fits your heads, but not too well. You'll have head ports that flow well over 350cfm and an intake that's probably only good for 280. I guess you can guess what will happen to your top end power. The good part is that even with the mismatch, you'll still have more flow potential than 90% of the smallblocks out there :)

James

Steve I'm running a Wieand Stealth manifold on my 509.
The factory big block hood would of course not come even close to closing.
I purchased a L88 hood and use a Holley HP serires carb and have about a 1/4 inch of clearance between the top of the L88 air cleaner and the bottom of the hood. I'm using Merlin Rectanglar port heads.
The manifold seems to be a real good manifold across the board. Lots of low end and we easily spun the motor to 6300 RPM's on the dyno.
Pulled 540 horse at 6300 and it would of gone more.

69 N.O.X. RATT

Steve: I think you are screwed. You are going to have to go to a different hood to take advantage of the great heads you bought. I would imagine you have a pretty stout cam to provide good airflow to those heads. Any modifications to an intakes height will affect your power (sometimes very significantly) It would be a bad idea to spend the money you spent on those heads, and the proper components to go with them, only to cripple the power out put. Depending on your cam, rear gears, and a few other details I would go with a Weiand Stealth, Victor Jr. or an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap.

I know you do not like the look of the L-88, luckely I do. I am running the Air gap on mine with a L-88 hood, and it barely fits. There are other aftermarket hoods availible, or maybe have the stock one altered. :chevy

SprintCarDriver

I am using the Weiland Stealth (part# 8016) with drop air cleaner. It mates with the Pro heads (with 235 runners). If you like, I will check the measurments this evening.

Fevre

I would go the cheap rout first. Would cost $20 or $30 bucks to get you current intake milled 3/4". If it kills your upper end too much for your liking, start looking elsewhere. Otherwise you have to buy an intake ($200?) or hood ($600+). $30 sounds good to me. :yesnod:

Fevre

Oh

If you want to see how much it effects it, put the intake on now and drive with no hood then take the intake off and have it milled then drive it again. A lot of work but you would be able to see how much difference it makes.