jcloving

Hello All,

The clutch in my '76 L-48 is slip-slidding away. It has 117k miles. The engine is stock.

I know I need a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel plus throwout bearing etc. My vette also has the fixed cross member so it would I think I would have to pull the engine (up and tilt) to get the tail of the tranny past the cross member.

Could someone estimate the total cost for parts and labor for this type of switch?

I have seen a LUK kit on partsgeek for <$100.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/197...lutch_kit.html

Thanks for the help,

John

hdpete98

$1,200 to $1,500 should get it done. You do not have the pull or tilt engine. Your disconnect drive shaft and shift lingage and rotate the trans and push it towards the back of the car and then drop front and remove.

jcloving

Thanks Pete. I will start saving my lunch money.

John

69 Chevy

You say you NEED a new flywheel. Why? The original can be resurfaced by an auto machine shop by what's known as Blanchard grinding. They've been doing so for decades.

Gordonm

Wow. 1200 to 1500 for a clutch. Ouch. I'm glad I can do everything myself. The parts are about 500 for a really good clutch. A weekends worth of time and you are driving again. I agree on the flywheel. They can easily be resurfaced usually for about 40 to 50 bucks. Check to see it is not cracked from heat though. A good machine shop will be able to tell if it is reuseable.

gregmuzila

just got a clutch assembly kit and flywheel for 300ish, shop guy installed it for another 400ish (@ $70 an hour). Wasn't able to resurface my flywheel, it was in horrible shape.

jcloving

69 and Gordon,

Not sure I need a flywheel, I'm just trying to figure the worst case for parts/costs. I know if it is badly scored or scorched I may need a new one. I think a new flywheel is <$100.

Thanks for the feedback.

Big Block Dave

This job is a real dirty sumbitch. If I had to do it again now [which I hope that I dont] it would be a little less painful than the first time around.

As others have said, you can leave the motor in place and wiggle the trans out. The stock shifter is also a pain in the *** because it is bolted to the cross member and limits some of your clearances as well. Add 35 years of muck and grease in the area, and its a real good time.

If youve been thinking about putting in a new exhaust, this also would be a good time for that, as you may want to get those intermediate pipes out of the way anyway.

Dont forget to slam out the old pilot bushing, and while your at it, maybe change those z-bar bushings....there will be plenty of "while Im here" kind of jobs going on with this. Might as well have the tranny rebuilt while youre at it....35 years of abuse to those forks and synchros is something to think about.

Long and short...dont pay someone to do this because it will hurt. Do it yourself...it will test your patience at times due to cramped spaces, but it is do-able

pawpaws toy

Big Block Dave is oh so right about "well while I'm in here." This winter I'm going to pull the trans. to replace the $8.00 speedo drive gear. After it's all finished, hope to have spent no more than $2500.00

Big Block Dave

Nice!


Also, something else that I forgot to mention in my ranting tirade...dont forget about that stupid reverse lockout/steering column lock...dont forget to disconnect that before you go to pull the box out.

Somehow I managed to leave that piece out when I put it back together...hmm oh darn

Korevette

I am ready to reassemble my clutch and was quoted for a stock unit, pressure plate and resurfacing of the flywheel for $200.00 dollars. This is a very old, knowledgable clutch and brake relining shop that knows this stuff inside and out.

I suspect there are vendors out there that don't chase the hype of high end, dump the clutch, clutch dust and go guys that will satisfy the need. I have yet seen a stock or near stock engine require much more that what a GM high performance clutch can offer.