TX-Techman

I am having starting issues, just sometimes will not engage solenoid I believe due to low voltage. I have about decided it has to do with the coil, I can disconnect to coil and voltage goes from around 6 to 12 Volts.

I am plan to install SS ignition conversion kit and replace the coil. I notice on Pertronix the instructions say to bypass the ballast resistor.
Problem is I assume it is a resistor wire but do not find it. The two wires going to the + on the coil are in the same connector. One is cloth covered red wire, to I terminal on solenoid. The other is dark maybe black.

Anyone know where the ballast resistor is on a later 1969?
Thanks,

Kenneth

restoman1

There's no resistor per se on the 69. The "resistor" is the wiring itself. The 20 gauge white/red/black wire coming from the fuse box to the positive side of the coil is special resistive wire and that's where the voltage drop comes from.

The red lead on the Pertronix will have to be attached to a 12 volt ignition source and the best place for that is the "IGN" connector on the fuse box.

However, that 6 volt reading is normal, so that's not your problem.

Edit: I see toddalin beat me to it!!

Ed

toddalin

That's not your problem.

You read ~6 volts with the coil connected because the resistance wire/coil form a voltage divider circuit and this is normal. But this is just the voltage going to the coil and not the voltage that your starter/solonoid sees when cranking.

Furthermore, when you're cranking the engine, the resistance wire is removed from the circuit (it's by-passed).

69 Chevy

Correct. The resistance wiring was to keep the distributor's contact points from burning/arcing, reducing their longevity.

Faster Rat

Kenneth
If your starter solenoid does not always engage it has absolutely nothing to do with the resistor wire, the coil, the points or the condensor. You would be better spending your time and money on either the solenoid or the ignition switch, or a neutral safety switch/clutch switch, or a bad ground somewhere in the system.
Dennis

TX-Techman

I initially thought ignition switch, may have to tear in a little further. I had the interior completely out a couple of years ago but didn't pull the steering colum, I expect that is how one gets to the ignition switch, is that correct?

Thanks,
Kenneth

Faster Rat

I've had my column out of the car but never messed with the ignition switch. It can probably be accessed by removing the steering wheel, but I better let somebody else jump in here.

Looked at the pictures in your album. Nice car! See it is an automatic, so you must also have a lockout switch on the shifter, which prevents starter engagement unless you are in neutral or park. That could also be the problem.

One could always disconnect the battery and do a little testing with an ohmeter, to see if and where the intermittent open occurs in the solenoid start circuit, by moving the key or the shifter...just not at the same time.

TX-Techman

I pulled the console and when I just get the solenoid to click I can jomp from the battery to the reverse switch and it cranks right up. I appreciate everyones help

If anyone has change the ignition switch I would appreicate some pointers. There is all kinds of stuff listed about the key part but find very little on the electrics.

Thanks greatly for your help,

Kenneth

69Vett

define the symptoms better, not what you think is wrong.
Manuel or Auto ? year 69 ? Manual has clutch interlock, that must be adjusted correctly to start the car, Auto also has interlock switch.
along with the Igintion swith, which also is adjustable, and is located on top of the column under the dash.
could also be bad starter solenoid, and then there is battery cables and GNds.

you turn key ,.. what happens click ? nothing ? or intermitant ?

TX-Techman

Mine is a 69 350/300 hp with Turbo 400. It is intermittent so sometimes hard to duplicate. I checked everything to the ignition switch and looks like that is the problem for sure. I can jump form the battery to the backup and park swicth and it kicks right off. I was able to drop the steering column enough to get it out. So on the way to pick one up, hopefully that takes care of it.

I appreciate it,

Kenneth

TX-Techman

Well the ignition switch didn't do it. So tomorrow I am going to put a jumper across the neutral switch, that is about the only thing left. Works 40 times then solenoid just clicks a few times (only around 6 volts to the "s" terminal) then may work another 40 times.
It could end up being a grounding issue after all.

Thanks,
Kenneth

7T1vette

Another check you need to make is to measure the [input] voltage to the starter solenoid as you are trying to start the engine. If it always stays at battery voltage (somewhere around 12 vdc) but engine start is intermittant, the solenoid is likely bad. If that voltage level is intermittant as well, you need to back-trace that voltage to see where it is dropping. Once you back-trace to where the voltage maintains at battery level, the component/wiring/section immediately following is where your problem lies.

P.S. My "guess for the day" is that your neutral start switch (NSS) is about to die.

aaroncorvette

The resistance wire has been the bane of my life, my car ran like crap until I cut it out

The resistance wire reduces current (amps) to the coil once the car has started so if you are running an electronic ignition which requires NO BALLAST, then you need to get shot of this wire asap, it has cured my hard starting, plug fouling and reduced my ET by 1 SECOND.


If you keep this wire in place when you don't need it you will not get enough juice to your plugs

I've got the pertronix coil and dizzy, this requires you to remove the resistance wire, trace the wires from the coil and starter to the loom at the top of the firewall, this will get thicker as more wires join, uncover this lot and in there will be a black wire ( was on my '71) that says 'resistance do not cut' or something, you need to cut this out or bypass it.

aaroncorvette

Here's a pic of that pesky wire

ezobens

Cutting out the resistance wire is the wrong way to go about it IMO.
Just run an additional +12 wire from your ignition tap on the fuse block to the coil (and just leave the existing resistance wire in place).
Cutting out the resistance wire buys you nothing but a hacked wiring harness and if someone ever wants to go back to the original configuration, try even finding a replacement resistance wire.

Don't cut out anything you don't have to. Leaving it place and just adding another +12 source hurts nothing.
Just my opinion.
Elm

aaroncorvette

Taking the loom apart was the best thing i've ever done as I found numerous bubba leccy connections that i'd never have found otherwise.

Cut the thing out or bypass it, Either way gets the job done I just wish i'd done it 3 years ago....

And it's very doubtful anyone would want to go back to points in a car that has a leccy distributor, even the the most hardcore matching numbers anorak must know they're *****.

ezobens

Sounds like your issue was more from a previous hack cutting up the harness than the resistance wire itself.
To each his own but I would never hack up a perfectly good harness in lieu of just running a bypass wire.

aaroncorvette

The other bubba leccy bits were not ignition related, just the usual stuff you'd expect in a 40 year old car, it's much tidier now and taped up.

I can't express the difference the Ballast has made to the car, as soon as I turned the key it exploded into life like it never had done before, no more pinking, missing etc. And it really flies with retarded ignition and no tune
I've had a few people message me saying thanks for posting as there must be lots of people out there with this issue and not realising what the problem is or that they're even aware of the existence of the thing.

Just hopes this thread helps people