joeveto

My engine is at the machinists. Now is the time for me to decide whether I want to stroke it or not.

There is only a $300 cost difference, at this point (flywheel + clearance). But I really don't hot rod the car. I don't beat it or race it. It's my Sunday cruiser. I put, maybe, 5000 miles on the car, each year.

So what should I do? I like the bragging rights. I like the idea of being able to say "That's a 383." But I'm cheap as hell. I like my money.

So what do you guys think? Help me out. Is it really worth it? :rolleyes:

Chris Fowler

Well...it's zwede (or norville, maybe) that will yell at you for going with a 383 instead of a 396 if you do decide to stroke it. :D Should be the same cost to go with the larger option.

As for whether or not to do it...I probably would. ;)

C3 Shark Tank

I hate to spend money too, but I went with the 383. It's a weekend cruiser but I figured what the hell. :D

joeveto

Sorry for the stupid question, but how does one get a 396? More bore? :confused:

compuvette

3.825" stroke and 4.060 bore = 396ci.

You can also go with a 3.8" stroke (a little cheaper-SCAT crank is $200) for a 388/392

Just watch the clearances. Also with the different stroke cranks, your piston choices start to go away. You can get "over the counter" slugs for the 3.75" and 3.8" stroke cranks. Anyway, there are alot of other people here that can give you better advice on this than me.

Carl in LA

I vote for the 383 - If you're in a state where you don't have to smog check do the 383 with big torquey cam and you'll be in roll-on heaven!!!!! My 383 setup is the best of both worlds - easy on the gas on the highway and outstanding driveable power.

gkull

3.875 is the correct choice. it costs the same. only go for interally balanced

TedH

My understanding is that you have to get the reground 400 crank and pistons also. That should add about $400 to the estimate...

Assuming you are re-using the 5.7" rods that you have. There is also a need for a dampener/balancer to go with that 400 flywheel (400 crank is externally balanced using the harmonic dampener/balancer).

You will probably be in the neighborhood of $700 added once all is said and done (I'm assuming you wouldn't have replaced your crankshaft if you had stayed with 350ci).


[Modified by TedH, 7:46 AM 5/2/2002]

427V8

Build the 350 and tell everyone it's a 383! :smash:

79MakoL82

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the 383 in my Z28. However, I think a well built 350 would probably make you just as happy. Clean up your 350, throw a nice set of aftermarket heads and cam to go with it and save a few $$$. However, if your tastes change and you begin to LIKE to roast your tires a little, go with the 383. A word of caution though. Once you start roasting tires with a 383, you may get to like it a little TOO much!! :eek: :D :crazy: :smash: :cheers:

Clink69

Go with the 383 ... Don't over bore to 60 over if ya don't have to..
The TQ difference is really sweet :D

:flag

Koz

Can I add to the stupid question list.. :)

What does "Stroking and engine" do? Is it just going with a larger bore/larger pistons?

Do you need a larger CAM to take advantage of the 383 or 396?

Will is sound more like a race car than a cruiser?

ZORA_RULES

I vote 383 (at least like the sounds of the 396 too). If you're going through all that trouble why not? In 5 years you won't remember the extra $300-500 it cost you...but you'll always be glad you did it. How many of the lucky gents that were in their 20s back in the Muscle car era wished they would've checked off that big block for a little more than the mouse? You'll be more happy with the extra power over the long run, than the price difference now (since its not a Huge difference..if it were thousands that would be different). Just my $.02.

:cheers:

Fevre

As Billy Squire once said : 'Stroke me, stroke me.'

You will be :) you did. Your cam will dictate how the car idles/runs but the 383's torque will get you going fast. If you want a civil car, go smaller cam.
But I would stroke it either way.

73-454

There is no way you can build a 383 for just a $300 dollar upleft, A good 383 will cost at least $3000 to $4500 and that is with your block. If you want your vette to be a good driver stick with the stock specs. Or buy a complete crate engine. I have yet to see many people happy with their budget 383's

Ganey

There is more to it than that.
Hot Rod it, drive hard, race it ! 383!
:cool:

For bragging, maybe a show car...

robzr

The only cheap pistons I've seen for strokers are 5.565/5.7 rod pistons for 3.75" stroke; you can get a set of forged TRWs for $180. You can get a Scat 9000 3.75 stroke crank for $240. If you reuse your stock rods, figure you have to buy new pistons anyways, and won't have to get as much work done to your crank, it's a very minimal cost to go 383 ($100-150ish). Go for an internal balance and you won't have the added expense of a new balancer/flexplate/flywheel. Getting 23 cubes for $150 is probably the cheapest power you can ever buy for your motor, with a moderate top end, that is worth 20 horses and that much torque across the band.

Rob

79MakoL82

MAN! You guys are awefully free with his money!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: He sounds a little like a tight wad to me (as a Scotsman, please, no offense). I say build the 350 to make 1+ HP per inch and I think you'll be happy. Everybody loves the ZZ4 which is a 350. :confused: These guys on the forum LOVE to spend other peoples money. :D :jester

Ganey

Longer crank- the stroke is increased. Basically a BB in a SB package- BSB or SBB.
Yes, a larger CAM is needed to take advantage of the 383 or 396. & larger heads...
Not necessarily, but REC.!

:cool:

gkull

I really think that 396 has a better name and you could install 396 chevy emblems which would look trick. 3.875 X 4.030. Last year I built a 383 and a 393 ci. It's a good learning experience if you do most of the work.

I have had some hot 355 ci solid rollers over the years and they don't compare to the added grunt of the strokers. It's just a pleasure to drive cars with over 500 foot pounds of TQ from 3000 to 6000+ rpm. I never bother to shift out of over-drive to speed up. I can go from 50 to 100 mph in a very short period of time and I'm still not into the real hp yet.