xkeots

Hi All,

Thanks for the posts from the last thread.
Here is where we are at:
Pre Hurricane Irene I got stuck and the 77 had to be towed to my home. When I turned the key there was nothing. I connected a long wire with an alligator clip to the start nut on the solenoid and the other end to a test lamp that was in the car. When I turned the key to the start position the test lamp lit but it wouldn't crank. I bought a starter heat cover from MrGasket and replaced the solenoid and all was good. This week I also had to replace the water pump and all was still good. The car was starting and running cool. Then the headlamp switch would not shut off (I just ordered another and it will be here Tuesday) and I went to move the car and nothing,(battery fully charged) the test lamp again and it lit, so I am getting power to the solenoid when I turn the key. I am stumped. Could the starter armature have a fried spot that is dead when it stops on it and I need a complete starter?
I am sick of having it in my head every time I shut the car "will it start?"

Thanks
Jack
77 C3

terry82

it sounds like it might be time for a rebuild or replacement.it maybe just the brushes.

myk7

If the solenoid is still good, you should be hearing a loud click when you try to start it. Clean the battery terminals and the battery ground strap at the frame. Also, make sure the cable connection from the frame to the engine is good.

rbowman

A while back I took my 77 to the car wash and it started fine, when I returned home it wouldn't start. spent most of the day tracing wire and it turned out to be a bad Neutral Safety Switch. Took the passenger side center counsel panel off and used a jumper wire until one that I ordered came in. Worth a try.

Ron

myk7

I don't believe he would be lighting his test light if the neutral safety switch wasn't working properly.

...Roger...

xkeots

Exactly. That is my point. If I am getting power to the solenoid from the NSS and the ignition switch and I just put in my third solenoid can the starter have fried from the heat before I installed the shield?

Thanks
jack

KTKelly

Lighting a test lamp only means that you're getting SOME power to the solenoid.

It doesn't mean that you're necessarily getting enough power...

69vettester

Your problem reminds me of the inherent issue of, starter wont crank when it gets too hot. Exchange the starter if thats the case, new starters dont have that issue.

biaggio

I just had the same problem with my 82 vette- I fried two starters before I figured it was the ignition switch. Not the one where the key goes in. The switch on the steering column under the dash.

my 76 ray

Starters can get dead spots.

xkeots

I got in the 12v range to the solenoid.
I had to use an old needle gauge as I misplaced my digital.
I also just picked up another starter, I am sick of pulling them for the same problem. I hope it works.

Thanks
Jack

SIXFOOTER

Be carefull when you put the starter in not to over tighten the big wire, it can turn the stud a bit in the solenoid and sometimes the solenoid won't make a good connection inside. Most autozone starters etc have been rebuilt more than once and the holes are a bit slopy. Lots of them also are badly assembled. Check it over very closely, if the big stud is a little loose or the one going into the motor isn't straight, it will bind up.

xkeots

On Sunday I replaced the starter and water pump. The car is now running at 160 and starting every time.
The old starter must have been burning out the solenoids that I was replacing.
I finally feel that I am getting somewhere and the car runs great. I took it today for a 150 mile drive and in 30 minutes of dead stop traffic it stayed at 160 degrees.
I shut it and it started right up.
Now the water leak going into shop tomorrow.

Thanks all
Jack

xkeots

All Fixed,

I bought a new starter. The old starter was burning out solenoids. After about 50 starts since Sunday, hot and cold. It now starts like a new car.

Thanks All
Jack