79 Corvette just died... Need help
#141
Le Mans Master
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html
Scott
#142
Drifting
Depending on how much umph you want, you MAY want to look into a short block, instead of a long block. But as mentioned, NO warrenty. I would keep doing what you are doing, asses the car fully. Go over it, make sure the brakes are solid, so on and so forth. Won't do to have a 250+hp motor in a car that has one system after another waiting to cause issues. Personally, though, after seeing the pics and vids, I think your car is OK, for the most part. I've seen worse. Just make sure those brakes are good, though, lol.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
#143
Racer
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Alright can someone, tell me the different between headers and an exhaust manifold? I've seen posted online some say they're the same thing... But why would they have 2 completely different names?
#144
Drifting
The engine makes a good starting point for a build-up, the only thing is that if you make any changes to it, it voids the warrantee. Check out this article.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html
Scott
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html
Scott
#145
Racer
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Depending on how much umph you want, you MAY want to look into a short block, instead of a long block. But as mentioned, NO warrenty. I would keep doing what you are doing, asses the car fully. Go over it, make sure the brakes are solid, so on and so forth. Won't do to have a 250+hp motor in a car that has one system after another waiting to cause issues. Personally, though, after seeing the pics and vids, I think your car is OK, for the most part. I've seen worse. Just make sure those brakes are good, though, lol.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
Also, we saw their new neighbor down the street backing in a tarped car, went over to assist, and he was working on a 71 Camaro, he came over to look at my project and he recomended POR15, we saw it on his car and it looked nice, also a friend came over at the same time and they both said the radiator looked new, same with the AC Condeser.
And for the final question "Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget?"
It will be preferably a weekend car, but if I move to Fl where I can drive it more, I might. Racer? I'd like it to get up and move, but I'm 21 and she's my dream car/my baby, and I don't see myself racing people on the highway, don't need to be losing a license haha. Long haul I will have the interior restored, but right now my focus is it running. I don't have the money to do everything, I would have if the engine didn't blow, but now while I'm replacing this that and the other thing while it's out. I want this car done right, I realize I'm never going to get back what I put into it and I'm ok with that, so I will save up and work the interior/cosmetic stuff later in life.
Does that book answer your questions?
I really love when people pop their hood and I see that Edelbrock carb and 'air cleaners?'.. Like the new neighbor has, But I don't know much about cars so I don't know what's worth the money, it could just be worth more because of the name, were I could get better preformance from something else ect.
#146
Racer
You probably don't need to worry about headers unless you're going to upgrade to dual exhaust.
#147
Le Mans Master
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Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Depending on how much umph you want, you MAY want to look into a short block, instead of a long block. But as mentioned, NO warrenty. I would keep doing what you are doing, asses the car fully. Go over it, make sure the brakes are solid, so on and so forth. Won't do to have a 250+hp motor in a car that has one system after another waiting to cause issues. Personally, though, after seeing the pics and vids, I think your car is OK, for the most part. I've seen worse. Just make sure those brakes are good, though, lol.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
Now would also be a good time to decide what you want from the car. Racer? Weekend warrior? Cruiser and car show queen? Something in the middle of that, but on a budget? That'll go a long way to help you decide how to spend your money.
We like POR15 because it's tough and durable. It's hard to scratch it, which means it really is rust proof. One key area to check with the rad out, is a largish diameter round tube, kinda beneath where the rad was. Lot's of these cars have some pretty bad rust in this area.
Another item you HAVE to buy at this point is the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual for your year. Corvette America sells good quality ones, after shipping I think it's about 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks you'll spend. It offers exploded views of EVERYTHING in your car, so you can see how it all comes apart, how it works, which helps diagnose problems. Makes even a junior mechanic like myself look pretty good, at times.
Scott
#148
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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#149
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Part 2:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._ii/index.html
Part 3:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...iii/index.html
Part 4:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._iv/index.html
Part 5:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...d_v/index.html
Part 6:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._vi/index.html
Part 7:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...vii/index.html
Part 8:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...iii/index.html
Enjoy!
Scott
#150
Racer
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Ok 2 questions.
1. We're just waiting for my Father's friends engine lift, so for the sake of it I decided to take a peak under the carpet and check it out, there was no insulation which explains why it gets hot on the feet, but the floor seemed like it was made of plastic. Is this somewat accurate or is my floor junk or something? Should I worry about this lol. If it's made of plastic I can't imagine what the weight limit would be on a passanger, I can tell you no obesse passangers will be in my car.
2. Thanks for all the info Scott, you've been really helpful, on that note. I do not have dual exhausts so would there really be any advantage 1 over the other? Personally I think those headers look far better, but I don't fully understand how the manifolds work, I can't seem to find a close up picture of one actually mounted.
1. We're just waiting for my Father's friends engine lift, so for the sake of it I decided to take a peak under the carpet and check it out, there was no insulation which explains why it gets hot on the feet, but the floor seemed like it was made of plastic. Is this somewat accurate or is my floor junk or something? Should I worry about this lol. If it's made of plastic I can't imagine what the weight limit would be on a passanger, I can tell you no obesse passangers will be in my car.
2. Thanks for all the info Scott, you've been really helpful, on that note. I do not have dual exhausts so would there really be any advantage 1 over the other? Personally I think those headers look far better, but I don't fully understand how the manifolds work, I can't seem to find a close up picture of one actually mounted.
#151
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Ok 2 questions.
1. We're just waiting for my Father's friends engine lift, so for the sake of it I decided to take a peak under the carpet and check it out, there was no insulation which explains why it gets hot on the feet, but the floor seemed like it was made of plastic. Is this somewat accurate or is my floor junk or something? Should I worry about this lol. If it's made of plastic I can't imagine what the weight limit would be on a passanger, I can tell you no obesse passangers will be in my car.
2. Thanks for all the info Scott, you've been really helpful, on that note. I do not have dual exhausts so would there really be any advantage 1 over the other? Personally I think those headers look far better, but I don't fully understand how the manifolds work, I can't seem to find a close up picture of one actually mounted.
1. We're just waiting for my Father's friends engine lift, so for the sake of it I decided to take a peak under the carpet and check it out, there was no insulation which explains why it gets hot on the feet, but the floor seemed like it was made of plastic. Is this somewat accurate or is my floor junk or something? Should I worry about this lol. If it's made of plastic I can't imagine what the weight limit would be on a passanger, I can tell you no obesse passangers will be in my car.
2. Thanks for all the info Scott, you've been really helpful, on that note. I do not have dual exhausts so would there really be any advantage 1 over the other? Personally I think those headers look far better, but I don't fully understand how the manifolds work, I can't seem to find a close up picture of one actually mounted.
Headers certainly do look cool, and, when paired with a free breathing exhuast system, will increase torque and horsepower, but there are some drawbacks. Headers are a little more likely to experience exhaust leaks, noise will increase, because of the sheet metal construction as opposed to cast iron, clearance can be a possible issue, etc. I don't consider myself nearly knowlegable enough to give a really concise description, but if you Google search the subject, I am sure there is a lot of stuff on the subject out there.
Scott
#152
I have a video of the starter, and you can clearly hear what I've been trying to discribe, you'll understand.
@Binster, I just took it off the jacks cause apparently my gf's neighbor owns a shop down the road and he offered to come over tonight and check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbEkxwUc8tc
That's the video. I'll let you know what he says sometime tonight.
@Binster, I just took it off the jacks cause apparently my gf's neighbor owns a shop down the road and he offered to come over tonight and check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbEkxwUc8tc
That's the video. I'll let you know what he says sometime tonight.
looking at this video, you already have headers . I'll stand corrected ... but they look like headers to me
#157
Race Director
#159
POR15 is the best anti rust paint. You should do all of the parts that you can with it. You need the POR15 metal ready and marine clean, along with the POR 15 itself. The marine clean cleans the metal and the metal ready etches it so the paint adheres to the best of its capability.
Good luck on your project, despite setbacks like thise you will end up with a great car!
Will
Good luck on your project, despite setbacks like thise you will end up with a great car!
Will