trying to start my 383 after rebuild...problems
08-02-2011, 10:33 PM
#1
Racer
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trying to start my 383 after rebuild...problems
so i built a 383 stroker for my 76 and put it in the car a few months back. it has been sitting since then covered and all but some water got into the carb and into 2 of the cylinders. i pulled all the plugs and squirted some water eliminator fuel stuff through there cranked it a few revs and let them all dry out as best i could. i drained all the oil which had a little water in it as well. so now that i got all that sorted out i hope i can't get her to turn over... i tried spinning the rotor 180 thought it may be off but that didn't seam to do much. im getting backfires, decent size flames not sure what else i should be checking for or if im doing something wrong. any help would be much appreciated
08-02-2011, 10:37 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
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When you say you can't get it to turn over, you mean start, right? I think most of us say turn over meaning cranking with the starter. BTW - your timing is not set correctly.
08-02-2011, 10:39 PM
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Racer
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yes i mean start. sorry about that. how should i go about resetting the timing? i don't want to continually crank it.
08-02-2011, 11:00 PM
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Le Mans Master
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Pull the #1 spark plug and have someone tap the key to bump the engine while you feel for air pushing out the #1 plug hole as the timing marks line up at the balacer and timing tab. Your distributor rotor should then be under the #1 wire terminal on the cap. If you lift the distributor and drop it back in to get under the #1 terminal and it doesn't drop all the way, just bump the starter a few times and it will fall in correctly. It should start and then you can set the timing with a light.
08-03-2011, 12:34 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Pull the #1 spark plug and have someone tap the key to bump the engine while you feel for air pushing out the #1 plug hole as the timing marks line up at the balacer and timing tab. Your distributor rotor should then be under the #1 wire terminal on the cap. If you lift the distributor and drop it back in to get under the #1 terminal and it doesn't drop all the way, just bump the starter a few times and it will fall in correctly. It should start and then you can set the timing with a light.
; the only thing I would change is set the balancer mark to 12+ degrees of advance vs. TDC. GEN I's won't run or start well at TDC...but a little additional advance will make it kick right over - and it's not going to see more than 3K RPM or so during cam break-in.
08-03-2011, 01:19 PM
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Racer
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no dice... i set it at TDC and the rotor was under #1 i also dried rotating the dizzy to help give it some advance and no go there either... not sure where to go from here??
08-03-2011, 04:09 PM
#13
Drifting
If you're absolutely positive that the distributor is timed correctly and the firing order is correct, then the next possibility is that the timing chain/sprockets were not lined up correctly when it was all put together, and the cam is way out of time.
08-03-2011, 04:58 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Good advice in all the posts above, so let's back up for a minute and put 'em in order and be thorough. It's burping, so we do have spark and fuel.
1. You need to be sure that #1 is TDC compression and not just at TDC. Pull the #1 plug and the coil wire (or power if HEI) and put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole while someone "bumps" the starter. You'll feel the air burp when it goes to TDC compression. DON'T try to start the engine at TDC - it won't or certainly won't start easily. 12-16 BTDC for first start, always.
2. Once the engine is positioned, then be sure that the rotor is pointed towards the #1 tower. Mark the distributor body at the center of the tower and get it as close as you can.
If the engine won't start at this point, then you will need to pull the timing cover and double, double check the timing chain installation. Keep in mind that if you lined things up the way the books show, you're at TDC compression on #6 - 180 degrees out of time.
It's also worth a quick check of the valve adjustment.
Just to check in on a few items - you did use cam lube on the cam and lifters, you're using break-in oil or oil + break in additive, and you're pre-oiling the engine, right?
1. You need to be sure that #1 is TDC compression and not just at TDC. Pull the #1 plug and the coil wire (or power if HEI) and put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole while someone "bumps" the starter. You'll feel the air burp when it goes to TDC compression. DON'T try to start the engine at TDC - it won't or certainly won't start easily. 12-16 BTDC for first start, always.
2. Once the engine is positioned, then be sure that the rotor is pointed towards the #1 tower. Mark the distributor body at the center of the tower and get it as close as you can.
If the engine won't start at this point, then you will need to pull the timing cover and double, double check the timing chain installation. Keep in mind that if you lined things up the way the books show, you're at TDC compression on #6 - 180 degrees out of time.
It's also worth a quick check of the valve adjustment.
Just to check in on a few items - you did use cam lube on the cam and lifters, you're using break-in oil or oil + break in additive, and you're pre-oiling the engine, right?
