djermyn03

I've just bought all the tool required for a rebuild and I plan to bore the engine and get the deck all done up. I'm new to this and would like to know is there anything specific that I might have problems doing while taking the engine apart? Would like some advice from some of you guy's who've done it.

cv67

Cut a couple pieces of rubber line a few in long to slip over the rod bolts so you dont score the cyl when they come out

Pay attnetion to the chamfer on the rods, which way they face and number so you dont forget on putting it back together.

pics

Ralphbf

Why all the bore and deck stuff?
Unless your going to build a 383 it's probably not needed.

I pulled down my 1975 and there was just a touch of lip in a couple cylinders. 90,000 miles.

Suggest:

Upgrade the heads, re-ring and bearing the motor and choose a nice cam and a high pressure spring for a stock oil pump.

So after all that, what do you expect out of the motor?
How are you going to drive it?
How long you going to keep it?
What's your gear ratio?
What transmission?

Ralph

djermyn03

Thanks for the reply i have seen that trick i actually downloaded a dvd from boxwrench that is very informative but not engine specific. Are there any engine specific thing's i need to worry about while pulling the engine? And I have access to a "bath" on my military base would you all save the money and just do it and all the pieces yourself or would it be better for them to do it. ALso am i able to rent a camshaft bearing installer from like autozone or will the machine shop do it or will i need to buy the kit?

cv67

Machinist will probably be cleaning it more than once. WOuldnt hurt to get the large crust off before giving it to him

djermyn03

I'm going to drive it maybe to work sometimes and recreational i live like 2 miles away from work.... Also to car show's eventually
I want to keep the car for my baby boy to have some day i'm 23
my gear ratio right now is whatever came stock for the car.
I have the th350 automatic right now.
I would like to improve the engine to a solid 325-350 hourses would be ideal.

Here is a kit i'm looking at buying...
I either want to turn it to a 383 or buy this kit... and idk if i can get the power i want if i turn it to a 383 i mean i heard it's just a torque gain across the rpm curve. Uhm suggestions for me?

http://www.summitracing.com/users/wi...1-dc472546256c

djermyn03

good idea...

djermyn03

no more ideas for me or suggestions? would appreciate more input?

myoriginal77

don't deck the block, you could lose the numbers, if that matters to you,

Frank

Ralphbf

I'd skip the roller rockers.
Go with a set of roller tipped rockers, they last much longer.

As a serviceman I know money has to be tight, unless things have changed.

I went this way;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2600/?rtype=10

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-172000/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-171000/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-133-139-00/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2101/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9003/

There are about $300.00 in parts here including a set of headers.

I know I cut my ring gap in half and the motor runs real strong.

I did buy a Lunati cam and lifter set, Edelbrock manifold too.

The engine will go at least 50,000 miles.
When the kid gets old enough do it as a project with them.
They will appreciate it more and respect the car more.
It seems if people don't earn it they wont take care of it.

I know I sound like a stick in the mud.
To make it a hot rod you will need to change the rear end and then you loose the cruse ability of the car, then you will need a 4 speed automatic to help with that. It almost never ends.

Refresh the engine, a good after market cam and drive the wheels off of it. You will be money ahead.

Just my 2 cents worth

Ralph

Keep it simple

jackson

Through the all-toooo-many threads running on this particular car ... I gather the OP is a very young adult, in military and hoping for baby boy. I also understand the OP is new to engine overhaul and, at present, this car runs OK.

In all honesty, and with good will, my best advice to OP is to delay or abandon any project having scope of a vette rebuild / restoration; put the rest of the dough in a 1 yr CD.

djermyn03

well this is a c3 vette forum so i would imagine there would be a lot of threads about this car. I am 23 and am in the military. I already have a 2 year old son as well . Very new to engine overhaul and yea the car runs ok as is right now. I already save money in my TSP. Markets not to great right now and I'm pretty sure the appreciation at 4 percent a year on this car is more than i will find in a 1 yr CD return or even a 5 year cd which would actually make this the better investment especially long term.

djermyn03

I think that would work great.. I would like to get a pair of heads if i'm buying an intake or could I just get the old ones ported with the new intake to save money that way?

djermyn03

Already a rebuilt block int here from previous owner so it doesn't really matter the block itself only has 500 miles on it it's just been sitting and one of the valve seals was leaking oil all over the engine and they were stil turning it over and it made a pretty significant mess.

djermyn03

And we still don't have a ton of money. your right about that

Clubby99

If it runs well then leave it alone.

scottyp99

I've only built two engines in my life, so I'm no expert, but it's all relative, right? Here are two things that I think can't be stressed enough:

Organization and cleanliness.

Keep everything organized. keep track of which lifter goes with which cam lobe, which pushrod goes with which lifter, which rocker arm goes with which pushrod, etc. If you re-use these parts, this will be crucial. If not, someone else may want to use them someday, so keep them organized. Dress right.....dress!

Clean, clean, clean! Like, surgically clean. Ya know how clean the armorer wants your rifle? Even cleaner than that. I would go ahead and get some CLP from the armorer, and use that. I don't think it will hurt anything, and it will be fun to tell your buddies about how you used CLP to clean your engine parts during the rebuild process. Clean it real good before you send it to the machine shop. Clean it real good when it comes back from the machine shop. Put it on an engine stand and clean it with dishwashing detergent and water from the garden hose, using "bottle brushes" to get in the oil passages and stuff. Then clean it with CLP. Then soap and water. Then again with the CLP. Use compressed air to blow it all out. OK, I'm starting to ramble, so I'm outa here, see ya,


Scott

djermyn03

I would but from sitting theres a tid bit of rust on the radiator fan and the sludge from oil burning on it and idk i just feel like it'd at least be good to take out and change out the seals and gaskets that are probably eroded and what not. it looks like junnk in there right now to i just want to clean it up and switch out some hoses and give it some power

djermyn03

Rodger that that's half the reason i want it out is to clean and actually my buddy does aircraft painting and he has a paint shop out of his garage and said he'd do my block and the inside of my engine bay if i purchase the paint and bust the rust. I just want to eat off my engine

billcarson

don't forget the old rubber .i must sound like a nag.change out all the rubber.there i go again. good luck!