enkeivette

Yes, higher compression pistons!!! And I've had good luck with a flex hone. Get the 4 1/8 size, 240 grit, long shaft.

johnt365

don't forget to number stamp the main caps and matching rod and rod cap sets.

scottyp99

Wow, you got a buddy who paints? That is such a sweet deal! Hey, send an e-mail to Lars Grimsrud, at v8fastcars@msn.com and ask him to email you a copy of his article,--Corvette Body & Paint Repair Basics. It'll give you some idea what you are in for if you decide to paint the car.

Here's a link to help you figure out how your headlights work. They aren't as complicated as you think they are.

http://fedbizoppssearches.com/CFImag...umTutorial.pdf


Scott

djermyn03

Yea he's painted a couple aircraft he's in corrosion he does it for the museum's and what not. So basically he's just starting on cars so i won't really let him use mine for a project but he can def do my engine and bay i told him and he can take pictures for other people and what not so its a win for me and him. He did an A-7 and is doing an apache right now. and thanks for the email i appreciate it.

djermyn03

and thanks for they headlight diagram i was planning on getting a whole new kit for that so it should help a ton!

scottyp99

Yeah, I threw that in because most people who are new to C3 'vettes are weirded out by the headlight system, I know I was, anyway.

OK, I gotta ask: what branch of the military are you in?


Scott

djermyn03

I'm an Airedale in the USN. And They headlights are the least of my worries right now ahahah. What about yourself army/marines?

scottyp99

Army (National Guard)


How many folks on this forum do you think have no idea what I meant by dress right, dress, and what the heck is an Airedale? (besides being the largest true terrier dog breed) I'm guessing Navy aviation branch? My cousin was a jet engine mechanic, he never mentioned anything about being an Airedale. My family had a couple of Airdales when I was growing up, great dogs, if you like stubborn, hard-headed terriers. (which I do!)

Here's something else about the headlights. They run off of engine vacuum, so if there is a leak anywhere in the system, it acts as a vacuum leak for the engine. I almost pulled what is left of my hair out trying to track down a vacuum leak, spraying carb cleaner, this and that, only to realize (eventually) that the vacuum leak was actually under the dashboard, for crying out loud!!! At the time, I would have given quite a bit for just 5 minutes alone with the guy who designed that headlight system! Since I have became familiar with it's quirks, tho, I have come to think that the system is actually quite simple and ingenious.

A little more about keeping parts together. Ya know how they say you shouldn't swap the bolt back and forth between rifles? The bolt and reciever wear into each other, and become almost polished where they rub against each other. If you swap the pieces around, they have to "wear into" each other all over again. The moving parts in the engine are the same way. I imagine you aviation guys don't recieve as much training with weapons as we grunts do, (don't feel bad, the only aviation training I ever got was how to get in and out of a chopper without getting killed by it) but you must get some, so you probably know what I'm talking about.


Scott

tyancey00

My honest suggestion is to put the motor in the corner and buy a crate motor. I had one rebuilt. It was great. 3 years later it wiped a lobe on the cam. Then built a striker. It went south in a month. It is back at the motor builder....
Had I bought a crate I would not be as good at swapping the motor in this car and I would have more money in my pocket...

djermyn03

Yes I'm in Aviation I work on all the electronic equipment in the Bird. And yes the whole gun thing we didn't do a lot with gun's but just as a general enthusiast I do know a thing or to about them. But yea I'm going to buy one of those vacume line kits I think from ebay. My headlights work now so i might just try to freshen up the tubing or whatever. ahahah I also bought a punch set so i can number some of the parts and keep them in order and I bought an organizer tray to help as well for the valve drive train. I think i'm ready to do this. I hope it ends as good as i'm hoping.

Scott Marzahl

If its truly rebuilt with 500 miles on it why are you screwing around with tearing it all apart and talking about cam bearings etc. Those should have been changed and the rods resized and already stamped as a numbered set. When you get around to pulling a head off, then see what pistons they used. If they are 4 valve relief get some heads with smaller chambers like 58cc and install a little more aggressive cam, OR change out pistons to flat tops with 2 valve reliefs and run 64 cc heads but it may cost you more that way.

djermyn03

well I wanted to pull it to clean out the engine bay and get it painted and the engine block painted as well because I can basically get it done for free. WHile I was at it my mindset was that this car has been sitting for almost 9 years since the new engine was put into it soooo I should probably check the gaskets that have been sitting around for 9 years correct me if i'm wrong but I believe that they have probably dry rotted by now? And alright I'll check the pistons to see what I'm working with I just figured while the block is out of the car I mine as well do some work to it and add some HP?

udornf4

I have done several small block rebuilds - I always put the rubber lines over the rod bolts when INSTALLING, so as to not score the Crankshaft. The rubber Line would be not necessary while pulling out the piston - since you have to do it from the bottom (and the rod bolts don't hit the cyl wall - the actual "rod" might, though...

My .02

djermyn03

Has anybody ever checked out the dvd by wrenchbox? Is it legit for engine rebuild guide?

Scott Marzahl

Get the book "How to rebuild your small block chevy" for a basic rebuild.