No Hazard/Brake Lights, Turn Signal OK...
06-01-2011, 11:50 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
No Hazard/Brake Lights, Turn Signal OK...
'76 - was just informed that my Brake lights were not working... checked fuse (ok), checked for voltage to brake light switch (ok), so replaced brake light switch, but no-go. Also noticed that Hazards were not working, so changed the hazard flasher in the upper-left corner of fuse panel, but still nothing....
Tail lights and turn signals working fine...
I have the "Olson Engineering" wire schematics, and trying to see where there might be an open, but not sure where to start ( I guess somewhere b/w the brake light switch and the tail lights, huh?!)
There's been some "Bubba" engineering to the wiring harness(es) (4 "Bubble" lenses [no back-up lamps], no key warning buzzer, no anti-theft horn, etc...). Is there supposed to be another flasher in the right-rear storage compartment for the alarm? If so, that's gone too!
I'll definitely wire it correctly, but just trying to find this issue first since it's a safety concern.
Thanks!
Tail lights and turn signals working fine...
I have the "Olson Engineering" wire schematics, and trying to see where there might be an open, but not sure where to start ( I guess somewhere b/w the brake light switch and the tail lights, huh?!)
There's been some "Bubba" engineering to the wiring harness(es) (4 "Bubble" lenses [no back-up lamps], no key warning buzzer, no anti-theft horn, etc...). Is there supposed to be another flasher in the right-rear storage compartment for the alarm? If so, that's gone too!
I'll definitely wire it correctly, but just trying to find this issue first since it's a safety concern.
Thanks!
06-02-2011, 08:40 AM
#2
Race Director
On the surface it sounds like you have a bad turn signal switch.
Try cycling the hazard switch a bunch of times,it could be not making good contact.
Testing brake lights- go to the harmonica connector on steering column and find white wire,yellow and green. Press brake pedal,test white wire for voltage when pressing brake(no voltage when releasing pedal)now test yellow and green wires-no voltage means an open in switch(probably in the 4 way flasher switch)
Testing hazards-harm conn again and find brown wire ,yellow,green,lt blue and dk blue,confirm voltage on brown,push hazard switch in,check for voltage on yellow,green,lt blue ,dk blue. No voltage will be an open in most likely 4 way flasher switch.
Try cycling the hazard switch a bunch of times,it could be not making good contact.
Testing brake lights- go to the harmonica connector on steering column and find white wire,yellow and green. Press brake pedal,test white wire for voltage when pressing brake(no voltage when releasing pedal)now test yellow and green wires-no voltage means an open in switch(probably in the 4 way flasher switch)
Testing hazards-harm conn again and find brown wire ,yellow,green,lt blue and dk blue,confirm voltage on brown,push hazard switch in,check for voltage on yellow,green,lt blue ,dk blue. No voltage will be an open in most likely 4 way flasher switch.
06-04-2011, 09:02 PM
#4
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I had similar questions when working with the wiring and bubble lights on my 75.
Roger's suggestions sound solid, but if they don't work, PM or email me and i'll dig through my notes and look at the old wiring harness to see if i have any further insights.
Para
Roger's suggestions sound solid, but if they don't work, PM or email me and i'll dig through my notes and look at the old wiring harness to see if i have any further insights.
Para
06-05-2011, 04:14 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Update...
BRAKES: With brake pedal pressed getting voltage to the WHITE wire only (nothing at YELLOW or GREEN when pedal pressed or not)
Hazard: Getting power to BROWN only... nothing at YELLOW, GREEN, DK BL or LT BL.
So, looking like the Hazard/Flasher switch
*** Noted something strange though when brake pedal released... voltage at WHITE wire eventually gets to 0, but takes about a minute to get there. Is that normal, or should it be an instant drop to 0???
Now, where is my steering wheel puller???
"Paragon"... Thanks, will keep you in mind. W/o even getting into it, I'm finding wire nuts and electrical tape connections.... NOT good!
BRAKES: With brake pedal pressed getting voltage to the WHITE wire only (nothing at YELLOW or GREEN when pedal pressed or not)
Hazard: Getting power to BROWN only... nothing at YELLOW, GREEN, DK BL or LT BL.
So, looking like the Hazard/Flasher switch
*** Noted something strange though when brake pedal released... voltage at WHITE wire eventually gets to 0, but takes about a minute to get there. Is that normal, or should it be an instant drop to 0???
Now, where is my steering wheel puller???
"Paragon"... Thanks, will keep you in mind. W/o even getting into it, I'm finding wire nuts and electrical tape connections.... NOT good!
07-09-2011, 04:22 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Blah... replaced the turn signal switch, but same situation, except now I'm not getting power to the brake light switch (I have no idea of how or why this happened.)
I definitely have a good fuse, but noticed that I'm NOT getting power to the hazard flasher in the upper-left corner of the fuse panel. I checked for power where each prong of the flasher fits into the fuse panel (vertical @ 3 o'clock & horizontal @ 6 o'clock), but no voltage at either (w/ and w/o brake pedal pressed).
So.... getting power to BROWN wire only in "harmonica" when brake not pressed, and also to WHITE wire when brake pedal pressed. Tail lamps and rear directionals working fine, but no BRAKE lights or HAZARDS.
*** Is it safe to "jump" any part of the "harmonica" and/or fuse panel just to narrow the problem down???
MY other vehicle is a '93 FORD Ranger w/ a 2.3L 4-banger, balding tires and completely blown-out shocks... I need to get my BABY running again ASAP!
Thanks
I definitely have a good fuse, but noticed that I'm NOT getting power to the hazard flasher in the upper-left corner of the fuse panel. I checked for power where each prong of the flasher fits into the fuse panel (vertical @ 3 o'clock & horizontal @ 6 o'clock), but no voltage at either (w/ and w/o brake pedal pressed).
So.... getting power to BROWN wire only in "harmonica" when brake not pressed, and also to WHITE wire when brake pedal pressed. Tail lamps and rear directionals working fine, but no BRAKE lights or HAZARDS.
*** Is it safe to "jump" any part of the "harmonica" and/or fuse panel just to narrow the problem down???
MY other vehicle is a '93 FORD Ranger w/ a 2.3L 4-banger, balding tires and completely blown-out shocks... I need to get my BABY running again ASAP!
Thanks
07-09-2011, 07:59 PM
#9
Race Director
Blah... replaced the turn signal switch, but same situation, except now I'm not getting power to the brake light switch (I have no idea of how or why this happened.)
I definitely have a good fuse, but noticed that I'm NOT getting power to the hazard flasher in the upper-left corner of the fuse panel. I checked for power where each prong of the flasher fits into the fuse panel (vertical @ 3 o'clock & horizontal @ 6 o'clock), but no voltage at either (w/ and w/o brake pedal pressed).The 6 oclock slot is supposed to be hot 24-7 (nothing to do with brake switch).The 6 oclock slot is fed by the right side of the STOP/HAZ fuse. The 3 oclock slot is fed through the flasher so it won't be hot unless the flasher is in place and the 6 slot is hot.
So.... getting power to BROWN wire only in "harmonica" when brake not pressed, and also to WHITE wire when brake pedal pressed. Tail lamps and rear directionals working fine, but no BRAKE lights or HAZARDS.Brown is hot ? The brown is fed from the 3 oclock slot of the hazard flasher,and if the 6 and 3 are not hot, how can the brown at the harmonica be hot ?
*** Is it safe to "jump" any part of the "harmonica" and/or fuse panel just to narrow the problem down???Yes you can do some jumping but with these unknowns I would use a jumper with a fuse 20amp fuse in the middle.
MY other vehicle is a '93 FORD Ranger w/ a 2.3L 4-banger, balding tires and completely blown-out shocks... I need to get my BABY running again ASAP!
Thanks
I definitely have a good fuse, but noticed that I'm NOT getting power to the hazard flasher in the upper-left corner of the fuse panel. I checked for power where each prong of the flasher fits into the fuse panel (vertical @ 3 o'clock & horizontal @ 6 o'clock), but no voltage at either (w/ and w/o brake pedal pressed).The 6 oclock slot is supposed to be hot 24-7 (nothing to do with brake switch).The 6 oclock slot is fed by the right side of the STOP/HAZ fuse. The 3 oclock slot is fed through the flasher so it won't be hot unless the flasher is in place and the 6 slot is hot.
So.... getting power to BROWN wire only in "harmonica" when brake not pressed, and also to WHITE wire when brake pedal pressed. Tail lamps and rear directionals working fine, but no BRAKE lights or HAZARDS.Brown is hot ? The brown is fed from the 3 oclock slot of the hazard flasher,and if the 6 and 3 are not hot, how can the brown at the harmonica be hot ?
*** Is it safe to "jump" any part of the "harmonica" and/or fuse panel just to narrow the problem down???Yes you can do some jumping but with these unknowns I would use a jumper with a fuse 20amp fuse in the middle.
MY other vehicle is a '93 FORD Ranger w/ a 2.3L 4-banger, balding tires and completely blown-out shocks... I need to get my BABY running again ASAP!
Thanks
You can also jumper from the white to the yellow and green.
Oh crap...are you using a multi-meter to check for power ?
If so you could have a bad connection at the stop/haz fuse or behind in the box. Remove the fuse and clean both fuse holders and fuse ends and reinsert.
07-11-2011, 10:36 PM
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Roger, you have some CRAZY knowledge of this subject!
I haven't thoroughly cleaned the Stop/Haz terminals yet, but removed and re-installed the fuse several times and all *seems* good!
* Could they have put the fuse panel in a more inconvenient place!? I will correctly clean as suggested before all said-and-done!
My "lack-of-knowledge" additional questions, concerns, and/or corrections (if you'd be so kind) :
1) Voltage Meter (VOM) vs. Voltage "probe" for checking power... how do the results of these differ? Should the VOM not be used for certain situations? I was going back-and-forth between each of them for wire testing, but *probably* was only using the probe to check power at the fuse panel, but maybe not???
2) Unless it was intermittent, I guess I was getting power to the 6 o'clock position of the hazard flasher, because (as you stated), it just didn't make sense!
3) Just for curiosity, I unplugged the harmonica and double/triple checked voltages and only get "full voltage" (12+) at the WHITE (Brake ON) and BROWN... all others are less than 1.0 volt (with lights turned ON). Is this a grounding issue? Should I NOT have done this w/ a VOM?
4) I have "bubble" tail lights (no back-ups) and seems like each tail lamp socket is from a different manufacturer! I'm going to get 4 identical ones, but wondered if tying the inner and outer tail lamps together is putting any type of strain on the system (both lights on each side would have the same function)? I'm sure the wire-nut and electrical tape connections aren't helping the situation (I will at least butt-connect, if not, solder the new tail lamp sockets).
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the insight... this was driving me NUTS
I haven't thoroughly cleaned the Stop/Haz terminals yet, but removed and re-installed the fuse several times and all *seems* good!
* Could they have put the fuse panel in a more inconvenient place!? I will correctly clean as suggested before all said-and-done!My "lack-of-knowledge" additional questions, concerns, and/or corrections (if you'd be so kind) :
1) Voltage Meter (VOM) vs. Voltage "probe" for checking power... how do the results of these differ? Should the VOM not be used for certain situations? I was going back-and-forth between each of them for wire testing, but *probably* was only using the probe to check power at the fuse panel, but maybe not???
2) Unless it was intermittent, I guess I was getting power to the 6 o'clock position of the hazard flasher, because (as you stated), it just didn't make sense!
3) Just for curiosity, I unplugged the harmonica and double/triple checked voltages and only get "full voltage" (12+) at the WHITE (Brake ON) and BROWN... all others are less than 1.0 volt (with lights turned ON). Is this a grounding issue? Should I NOT have done this w/ a VOM?
4) I have "bubble" tail lights (no back-ups) and seems like each tail lamp socket is from a different manufacturer! I'm going to get 4 identical ones, but wondered if tying the inner and outer tail lamps together is putting any type of strain on the system (both lights on each side would have the same function)? I'm sure the wire-nut and electrical tape connections aren't helping the situation (I will at least butt-connect, if not, solder the new tail lamp sockets).
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the insight... this was driving me NUTS
07-12-2011, 09:26 AM
#11
Race Director
Roger, you have some CRAZY knowledge of this subject!
I haven't thoroughly cleaned the Stop/Haz terminals yet, but removed and re-installed the fuse several times and all *seems* good!* Could they have put the fuse panel in a more inconvenient place!? I will correctly clean as suggested before all said-and-done!
My "lack-of-knowledge" additional questions, concerns, and/or corrections (if you'd be so kind) :
1) Voltage Meter (VOM) vs. Voltage "probe" for checking power... how do the results of these differ? Should the VOM not be used for certain situations? I was going back-and-forth between each of them for wire testing, but *probably* was only using the probe to check power at the fuse panel, but maybe not???The voltmeter is so sensitive it will read voltage even if a trickle is getting through , the test light would either not light or would be very dim.
2) Unless it was intermittent, I guess I was getting power to the 6 o'clock position of the hazard flasher, because (as you stated), it just didn't make sense!
3) Just for curiosity, I unplugged the harmonica and double/triple checked voltages and only get "full voltage" (12+) at the WHITE (Brake ON) and BROWN... all others are less than 1.0 volt (with lights turned ON). Is this a grounding issue? Should I NOT have done this w/ a VOM?The only power going into the connector is on the brown and white,the power goes up to the turn sig switch and comes back down and out through the connector,unplugging the connector would kill all the other wires.
4) I have "bubble" tail lights (no back-ups) and seems like each tail lamp socket is from a different manufacturer! I'm going to get 4 identical ones, but wondered if tying the inner and outer tail lamps together is putting any type of strain on the system (both lights on each side would have the same function)? I'm sure the wire-nut and electrical tape connections aren't helping the situation (I will at least butt-connect, if not, solder the new tail lamp sockets).That will be OK.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the insight... this was driving me NUTS
I haven't thoroughly cleaned the Stop/Haz terminals yet, but removed and re-installed the fuse several times and all *seems* good!
* Could they have put the fuse panel in a more inconvenient place!? I will correctly clean as suggested before all said-and-done!My "lack-of-knowledge" additional questions, concerns, and/or corrections (if you'd be so kind) :
1) Voltage Meter (VOM) vs. Voltage "probe" for checking power... how do the results of these differ? Should the VOM not be used for certain situations? I was going back-and-forth between each of them for wire testing, but *probably* was only using the probe to check power at the fuse panel, but maybe not???The voltmeter is so sensitive it will read voltage even if a trickle is getting through , the test light would either not light or would be very dim.
2) Unless it was intermittent, I guess I was getting power to the 6 o'clock position of the hazard flasher, because (as you stated), it just didn't make sense!
3) Just for curiosity, I unplugged the harmonica and double/triple checked voltages and only get "full voltage" (12+) at the WHITE (Brake ON) and BROWN... all others are less than 1.0 volt (with lights turned ON). Is this a grounding issue? Should I NOT have done this w/ a VOM?The only power going into the connector is on the brown and white,the power goes up to the turn sig switch and comes back down and out through the connector,unplugging the connector would kill all the other wires.
4) I have "bubble" tail lights (no back-ups) and seems like each tail lamp socket is from a different manufacturer! I'm going to get 4 identical ones, but wondered if tying the inner and outer tail lamps together is putting any type of strain on the system (both lights on each side would have the same function)? I'm sure the wire-nut and electrical tape connections aren't helping the situation (I will at least butt-connect, if not, solder the new tail lamp sockets).That will be OK.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the insight... this was driving me NUTS
05-22-2012, 07:58 AM
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Interesting Discussion considering I have no hazard lights and no brake lights, but I have turn signals and parking/tail lights on my '76 L-82. If you completed the repair, can you share your notes with me?
Last edited by ghook1967; 05-22-2012 at 08:06 AM.
05-12-2013, 08:27 PM
#13
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I too am having issues with my brake lights. I have the original lights on the car. Also, when I use the turn signal I am getting a surge into the speedo and tach making them twitch in time with the turn signal.
I know there is a draw on the battery coming from an orange wire in the center console. It's not connected to anything, so I am guessing that this might also be part of a series of shorts in the dash.
Any fix on this would be greatly appreciated.
I know there is a draw on the battery coming from an orange wire in the center console. It's not connected to anything, so I am guessing that this might also be part of a series of shorts in the dash.
Any fix on this would be greatly appreciated.
09-06-2015, 02:03 AM
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we need help.
i am having the same problem. signal works, headlight and taillight works but no hazard and no brake.
checked all fuses. good fuses but no brake light. i have changed the brake switch at the pedal and bulbs still no brake light
i am having the same problem. signal works, headlight and taillight works but no hazard and no brake.
checked all fuses. good fuses but no brake light. i have changed the brake switch at the pedal and bulbs still no brake light
