Manual Hot Water shut off
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Manual Hot Water shut off
Gents, I remember doing this in my 79 a few years back and want to do it to my current '82. Question is I cant remember if I used a 1/2 inch valve and some nipples or a 3/8 valve and nipples? hate to have to buy both sets just to return one. Anyone do this recently and remember what size they used? After this going to do the C4 fan and spacer thing, see if I can get my A/C cold as I want it.
Thx Cory
Thx Cory
#7
Race Director
good to see you are still at it.....mine was 1/2" NPT from Home Depot but the napa valves are pretty nice looking
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hey Bob,,,
thats the problem when you buy a low mileage all original, theres nothing for me to do lol except check the air in the tires and make up stuff to do. Next week will be the C4 blower fan. I dont have a napa dealer near me so I guess its home depot. I guess its going to be a 3/4 ball valve with 2 short 3/4 x shoulder galvanized nipples and some hose clamps.
#11
Drifting
76
I just did mine from Home depot in 5/8" all brass with male pieces on either side. I removed the lever that runs the ball valve and shortened it and then flattened it with my vice and installed it with hose clamps...works great.
Lance...it's the little brass to the upper left of the engine in the photo
Lance...it's the little brass to the upper left of the engine in the photo
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just did mine from Home depot in 5/8" all brass with male pieces on either side. I removed the lever that runs the ball valve and shortened it and then flattened it with my vice and installed it with hose clamps...works great.
Lance...it's the little brass to the upper left of the engine in the photo
Lance...it's the little brass to the upper left of the engine in the photo
#13
This may sound like a dumb question but, which hose do you install the shut off valve in to or how do you identify the correct one? I know the idea is to keep coolant from going in to the heater core and keep the cabin cooler in the summer time.
#14
Drifting
maybe
The input to the heater core is the top most hose from your water pump on a 76. Some put a valve on the bottom return hose to but it's not really necessary as you get 90% or more benefit from the input stopping in my view and the way it's worked out.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
maybe the valve is 3/4 and the hose was 5/8". Can't remember for sure. Either worked. What I wanted was a small one from Napa I'd seen in other people's photos but they had none so I went to the Home Depot hardware store across the street and all I saw were standard ball valves where you had to buy small pieces of pipe for each side then I found this all brass one with about 1" or so brass on each side built in. Bought some hose clamps, went home to a cool engine and cut out about an inch of hose and put clamps on, inserted and then rolled it over so when turned to let the water flow the shortened lever didn't interfere with hood. I find the hardware stores have less choices all the time...miles of stock but not the variety they once had, btw.
The input to the heater core is the top most hose from your water pump on a 76. Some put a valve on the bottom return hose to but it's not really necessary as you get 90% or more benefit from the input stopping in my view and the way it's worked out.
The input to the heater core is the top most hose from your water pump on a 76. Some put a valve on the bottom return hose to but it's not really necessary as you get 90% or more benefit from the input stopping in my view and the way it's worked out.
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
OK,, just did this mod,, DO NOT BUY 3/4 INCH VALVE AND FITTINGS, THE CORRECT SIZE IS 1/2 IN . I did the larger of the 2 hoses and there was no way 3/4 was even going to be close,,,, 1/2 in is the way to go.
#17
Drifting
Gentleman: Buy a 3/4" & 1" Pex water, 1/4 turn ball valves. Use Stainless Steel heater hose clamps to secure them. They are made for the new Pex water systems, they will handle the hot water in your systems, & fit the hoses without any adaptions. They make real neat shut offs. Westlake Hardware stores handle them as well as any plumbing supply.
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Gentleman: Buy a 3/4" & 1" Pex water, 1/4 turn ball valves. Use Stainless Steel heater hose clamps to secure them. They are made for the new Pex water systems, they will handle the hot water in your systems, & fit the hoses without any adaptions. They make real neat shut offs. Westlake Hardware stores handle them as well as any plumbing supply.
#19
Drifting
PEX Ball Valve, Full Port, 1/4" turn
this is the pex valve I used from home depot. I believe it's 3/4" and my hose was large enough to fit over each side with hose clamps on it but I don't remember specifically, just that it's on and in good shape. I first took the lever off, flattened it in a vice and shortened it to 1 1/2" to make the whole thing smaller then reassembled the handle to the valve and installed. removed about 1" of hose to allow for the valve and put a couple pieces of hose on each side in case something rubbed then cable tied them in place as chafe potential pieces where there was contact with other engine parts..a/c. All brass...works great.
Since plumbing can be a little "dry" as a subject I put a concentration test in as well. that's the blue photo.
Lance
Since plumbing can be a little "dry" as a subject I put a concentration test in as well. that's the blue photo.
Lance
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Like an idiot after laying out my 3/4 ball valve and nipples I knew the dam thing wasnt gonna fit but I cut the hose anyway . Thankfully I had a 1/2 inch gate valve in my plumbing bin with some 1/2 in nipples and was able to get it done. I love the look of that pex valve, thats exactly the item for this job. I will hit home depot again this weekend and pick that bad boy up. Nice dress that yound lady has on! Reminds me of the bumperettes on my old mans 54 Caddy,,,,
Last edited by ESU; 04-27-2011 at 02:26 PM.