Ok, shoot me down on a 200R4
01-30-2011, 12:47 AM
#21
Drifting
If you install a B&M controller you will not have to worry about early lock-up because it locks/unlocks based on speed. I have mine setup to lock-up after I hit 40mph. It unlocks if I slow down to 38mph.
That's neat. I am showing it fits a GMC C1500,2500 Suburban Shift Control Unit - 1992::Sierra; All Engines, 1992::All Submodels; All Engines. How do you know what to get?
01-30-2011, 07:00 PM
#24
Instructor
search for "transmission Depot".......they in Hudson Fla, right outside Tampa, and as I live in Gainesville, I have had the pleasure of driving over and talking to them about a 200r4......
I was impressed...
I was impressed...
01-30-2011, 10:31 PM
#25
01-31-2011, 08:54 AM
#27
Burning Brakes
If you install a B&M controller you will not have to worry about early lock-up because it locks/unlocks based on speed. I have mine setup to lock-up after I hit 40mph. It unlocks if I slow down to 38mph.
01-31-2011, 08:57 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
A trans lockup refers to the torque converter "locking up" acting like a mechanical clutch vs. a fluid clutch. It works by using fluid pressure through a selenoid to engage a mechanical clutch inside the converter. From the factory, the transmissions used a computer of some sort to lock up based on certain parameters. In a swap you can accomplish this a variaty of ways from a manual switch to after market controllers, and some have used the factory computers too. It's good for a few hundred or so RPM and improves the efficiency and therefore the economy of the drive train.
01-31-2011, 09:44 AM
#29
Race Director
Now you jokers have me thinking about a 700R4. With the steep first gear, I could get by for a while longer with the 2.87 rear in my '81 and still feel like I've got a good punch off the line.
I had a '91 L98 Z28 with that transmission in it and while it was nearly stock it was damned strong off the line and would BBQ the tires if you weren't careful. I think it had a 3.23 rear end, and it weighed about the same as a stock '81.
I had a '91 L98 Z28 with that transmission in it and while it was nearly stock it was damned strong off the line and would BBQ the tires if you weren't careful. I think it had a 3.23 rear end, and it weighed about the same as a stock '81.
Last edited by nate99; 01-31-2011 at 09:47 AM.
02-03-2011, 06:56 PM
#30
Instructor
If you have the stock bolted-in crossmember as my '79 does, the 200-4r tranny mount will attach right to that crossmember through the cut-out; the holes are already there(like it was made for it) Just detatch the funky bolt-on bracket on the crossmember that the TH350 was attached to. As said, yoke is the same, no need to change or shorten the driveshaft. The only thing you lose is a place to attach the stock exhaust bracket that originally went to the TH350 mount bracket.
02-03-2011, 08:14 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
700R4 trannies are complete junk....Even built up with good parts they are junk.
Stick with a well built 200R4...
Century Transmission in Houston are VERY good at building 800hp 200R4s....
200R4's have better gear ratios/spacing, consume less HP, fit a Vette chasis with no mods and with the lock up feature, you can run a nasty stall converter and still have it locked up solid in 2/3/4.
CPT Transmission is also good. That is Art Carr's shop.
Stick with a well built 200R4...
Century Transmission in Houston are VERY good at building 800hp 200R4s....
200R4's have better gear ratios/spacing, consume less HP, fit a Vette chasis with no mods and with the lock up feature, you can run a nasty stall converter and still have it locked up solid in 2/3/4.
CPT Transmission is also good. That is Art Carr's shop.
