68 beginner

OK...I still haven't figured out why I don't have fire to my plugs...but have new problem....while trying to crank new engine the fuel was overflowing out the top of the front tri-power carb....I took the float bowl off twice...the first time the float was stuck down,allowing the fuel to keep coming in....The second time I pulled the float bowl off I changed the float...still overflow......I guess I need a fuel pressure regulator...is that right?...Thanks.....As for the fire problem...I installed Pertronix 3...hot wire to coil is from the ign. tap on fuse box....have checked continuity from block to distributor and ground wire to points plate..everything good..do I need to get my fire to coil from somewhere else?...Thanks ..Malcolm

L-46man

FLOAT NEEDLE STUCK. Float is only half of the system

68 beginner

i took the new needle out twice also...don'tsee how it could be the needle...it was loose

Jebbysan

Don't get locked into the "I don't see how it can be" line of thinking......
Fact is the float system only has a few parts and is very simple.....overflowing can only be caused by one of five things:
1) Debris in the needle or damaged needle.
2) Dropped float...saturated nitrophyl or brass float that took on liquid.....
3) Incorrect float level setting
4) Fuel pressure way too high (7psi max on Holley)
5) Damaged/missing needle/seat O-rings seal to float bowl (This is VERY rare and will not "shoot" gas out of the vent, more like a trickle...)

95% of the time it is 1, 2, or 3......if you have a stock pump, 4 is out of the question.....if you see rubber bands on your needle assembly, number 5 is out too.
If the needle is clean and the float actually floats and is set proper....it has to seal. If it is debris or dirt in the needle, then it is coming from somewhere.....like a rubber fuel line inlet failing internally which breaks the inside rubber down to dust that goes right through the pump, through the pathetic screen filters on the bowl and clogs the needle....you clean it, put it back together and it works for a minute until more debris floats through and makes it leak again. So logic tells you......get a clean gas can....disconnect the inlet to the pump and run a long hose from the inlet to the gas can.....clean the needle and try again......
I cannot say enough about float setting either and is one of the mos misunderstood and plain overlooked aspects of any carb. The Holley has a sight plug in it and you remove it while the engine is running.....start with a float setting that is way too low and dial it up until you see a trickle come out......wrap the intake with a damp rag for safety.
Make sure the float floats! Brass is easy....shake it...if it has fuel in it you will feel it....the black Nitrophyl can be put in a bowl of fuel to check......
Check these things and it will work......because it has to.

Jebby

68 beginner

total restore...new gas tank..new lines..carbs overhauled...bought new 5 gallon gas can....I think the pump is a high volume....looking at purchase of regulator

Jebbysan

If the pump is something other than the stock style...replace it with a stock style pump. Do you have a picture or a part # of the pump on your engine? You do not need a special pump on a Tri Power as there are three float bowls......unless you are making over 500hp and run a mile WOT.....you are not going to run out of fuel. If it is a stock style pump......measure the pressure before you go putting a regulator on it. But the tell to me is that only the front carb does it......if it had way too much pressure, all three would do it.

Jebby

pltmgr

My front carb on my 68 tripower was overflowing fuel. Took in apart three times until I discovered the float hinge was slightly bent. It would move freely when the bowl was off the carb but when installed it would hand up on the metering plate causing the flooding.

68 beginner

I have a feeling that when I put the float bowl back on that the float is wedged against carb. base....have new neoprene float ordered and new spring to help take some weight off the float...neoprene float is not as thick from front to back as brass float..will allow space between float and carb. base..maybe solve the problem before I do fuel regulator

Leo Guggenbiller

Been following this thread with interest trying to learn. You have had the unit back to Toms and it bench test good. However never mentioned if you used your distributor to check the unit. Are you sure your distributor is turning your hp pump? I agree with the need to verify timing, but the problem is no fuel flow.

Drive em safe

Leo