gmg1977

I think I know what the problem is but additional opinions would be welcomed. I have a 74 that I have put a 496 in. The original block is a Gen IV not sure what it was in originally. But anyway everything worked fine at the dyno I got 605 hp and 603 lbs of torque. When I got it home I dropped the engine in the car. It set in the garage for a few months because I still had some more work to do on the body. So today I tried to start it up. Primed the Holley 750 and it began to clear its throat, but just for a second and then it would die. I suspected a fuel pump problem or timing issue. So i pulled the mechanical pump and there was no gas in the outlet line. I called the dyno place and they used a electric pump. So I tested the pump. I pressed on the lever and it made a sucking sound so it seemed like it was good. The problem I suspect is with the pump rod. It seems jammed up there and would not come out. I hand cranked the engine with one hand and had a finger on the rod to check for movement. After one cycle there was none. So now I need tips on getting the rod out. I read about a bolt that holds it in place but i couldnt see any that would be causing it to seize. I cant really get pliers in there unless I take off the part of the suspension. I really cant pull the engine back out cause I borrowed the cherry picker from an ex gf's dad. Are there any other options? Would possibly I have to tear down the top part of the engine and remove the cam and get it that way? Or would it be a simple as finding a pair of pliers with a 90 degree angle. Any thoughts will help.

Thanks
Graham

HamadUP

Maybe its not the right rod size, and I think its stuck there because of some thick grease or something, try to use a 90* angle nose pliers. The worst case scenario is a wiped fuel pump lobe, but its so rare to happen.

Phil Zell

Does it have a roller4 cam in it ? Is it a retro camshaft ? I do not know if a Gen IV block is roller or not, I would imaging unless you have the retro roller camshft there is no lobe for pump rod. Put an electric pump on it and be done with it, it ran for the dyno man.

604

There should be a bolt on the front of the block that will hold it up in there so you can install the pump with out it falling out. If the bolt is not holding it up you probably have a roller cam that dose not have a fuel pump eccentric on it. No biggy. You can just change over to an electric pump. But you still need to figure out why it is stuck and get it out of there. You should be able to take the mounting plate off and get at it a little better.

KanuckZ06

This engine is most likely out of a pick up truck, which had an electrical fuel pump, you have to install a mechanical fuel pump push rod.
Unlike the previous generation of engine block, this one dose not have the retaining bolt for the fuel pump push rod, use heavy grease.
Let us know how you make out.

MrJlr

OH....and P.S. - you are NOT screwed...seems like a PITA - but not screwed. Have Lars show you some pistons....THAT'S screwed !

Work the problem...you'll get it.

...Roger...

Small blocks have the bolt hole that can be used to hold the rod up , but I don't think big blocks do.

Dantana

have you removed the front plate from the block? I think I'd do that first to get a better vantage point but if it didn't move as you say then I'd probably be looking for a moderately priced electric pump for it. Much easier than tearing everything else apart. Remember, tearing everything down and swapping the cam will cost some $$ too. Might as well just get the new pump and keep the dyno'd engine together.

TimAT

Roger is correct....BB's have a pipe plug under the fuel pump mounting pad- no plate there. There is also no bolt to lock the pushrod like a SB has.
If you put your finger on the end of the pushrod, and rotated the engine 2 revolutions and didn't feel the pushrod move, there's either no lobe on the cam or it's wiped. (remember the cam turns at 1/2 the crank speed).

I'd look at the fuel lines from the tank- could be the rubber line at the tank or the sock in the tank is fubar'd too. Pull the flex hose off the pump and hit it with some compressed air, see if you can blow bubbles in the tank..

gmg1977

Thanks for the replies. It seems that the electric pump will be the way to go. I just dont know that much about them. Where would you mount frame rail? Ill check if my line is clogged while im at it. Im adding the ps pump on so its new alt brackets for me. Now to put my "new" mechanical pump on ebay to partially recoup the cost for the new electrical one. Like I said I havent researched electrical pumps. Any ideas for my set up. I have a holley 4150 on a stealth intake. With a comp cam and matching springs. I believe the duration is 296. Hi pref iron heads according to the stamping they were made in 71 and are rated at 435 hp. I could be wrong ill check my card when I get home. The bottom end is all Eagle forged with SRP pistons that gives me around 10:1 comp.

TimAT

An electric pump likes to "push" and not "pull". Mount it in the rear. I had one for a while mounted at the right rear. Easy access to the fuel line to the front too.
The one I had was an old S-W pump- just got tired of it chattering all the time. tick-tick-tick. The new generation pumps are vane type and just have a little quiet whine. Pick up the power feed from the IGN terminal in the fuse block. Best way would be to power it thru a relay. +12v from the battery, to the relay +, then from the other side of the relay to the pump. Power from the IGN terminal in the fuse block to the control side of the relay. That will ensure the pump gets plenty of power and won't load your wiring.

vettme

Your better off with an elec. pump anyway. That Monster wont be fed enough with a mechanical pump @ W.O.T. Good luck

mj9311

maybe im just being stupid but is it a problem that you have heads rated at 435 hp and an engine pushing 600+. it is possible that im missing something such as valve and spring specs just a question?

gmg1977

The head's casting # is 14096188. From what I can tell they are a service replacement for the LS6 mark IV from 70-71. They are 118 cc open chamber with rectangle ports. I could be wrong about the rating I bought them a few years ago. Ill check on my cam card and get valve and spring specs.