Fallen Angel

First, I'll give a brief history. I'm 24 years old (almost at magical 25!) work as a computer tech and also a mechanic part time. Currently running an 85 Mercedes 300D as my daily. Also have an Audi TT for pleasure/winter driving. Have a 74 MG midget that is in process of a lot of work. Also have my mothers/my c3 mix corvette. Obviously, I'm no stranger to wrenching, though I will say that I have never worked on anything with a 350 that wasn't in good running order to begin with.

That being said, the best I can figure with the vett is that it's either a 73 or 74 engine, 350. 76 frame I believe and 78 body. This is only what I've been told. Holly 4 barrel was added, I believe 850cfm. edlebrock performer series intake manifold. These were installed as it was running a bit rough when purchased and would stall out often.

Uncle of mine had installed this stuff a couple years back, little dirt ended up getting into the carb due to not installing a filter, though this has been taken care of and cleaned out.

Now to the problems:

The carb currently has an electric choke, did not have one previously and I have no idea how to install the electric choke, though I have the manual conversion as well, might just go that route.

The engine runs well enough, hard to start mostly due to the choke and also not being tuned quite right. Engine has a knock and some blowby. It will be needing a rebuild.

Once put into gear, the engine stalls out. Feels like a locked up torque converter. Raise the wheels off the ground and put the car into gear, it stays running with the wheels turning - I'm not sure what to think of this, though I wouldn't be surprised if there is a vacuum issue with the new carb. To be honest, I wouldn't know where to start.

The general plan is to take the body off of the frame and start from there. the electrics are a little shoddy and a host of issues from there. I can figure out the bolts to lift the body, wiring.


So... I need a little help from this standpoint. I'm not sure what else I'll have to do while pulling the body, not sure what I should do with the engine, whether rebuild or replace, nor do I know what is up with the tranny. My gut tells me to replace the tranny, though it likely is just fine. Anyone can feel free to chime in as I can use all the help I can get. No worries about the work. I can certainly wrench on cars with no issues, just need a starting point.

Regards,
Rick

myk7

What is it that you want to do first? Odds are that the carb is too big for that engine, but maybe you could get it to idle right and see if the tranny/converter is toast or not. Check the plugs, plug wires and look for vacuum leaks, then hook a vacuum gauge up and tune the carb. Go for highest vacuum with smooth idle at about 800 rpm.. assuming it's not cammed up too big.

Fallen Angel

I would like to have it mobile before I tear it down. It does idle, just needs a bit of tweaking. There are a few random vacuum lines around the engine, previous owner didn't help much when he installed it amess. There's a valve or diaphram of some sort to the passenger side of the engine, right next to the exhaust. Has two big hoses, an inlet for a smaler hose. This isn't hooked up to anything with the small hose, though I don't even know what it is. I really don't know even if the vacuum hoses are hooked up so suppose I should really take a look.

myk7

Some pics might be helpful

batmedic

Not a mentor per say, but started in kind of the same boat. I was always told to get it started first, then move out from there. Frame off is a big production. You can work with all these issues with the body on. KISS=Keep It Simple Stupid! (Not to imply you're stupid, it's just how the numonic goes) I would work the carb, check timing and work out from there. These things are finicky, but bullet proof. A lot of these things can be resolved without spending a fortune. Have fun, ask lots of questions.

Easy Mike

Check the pad on the block at the front of the right head. You should find two numbers stamped there unless they have been machined away. The first stamping will identify the engine; the second stamping will be the VIN derivitive of the car the engine was originally installed in.

At operating temperature, idle speed should be about 600 RPM in Drive with auto trans. Check the idle speed in Drive.

My advice would be to purchase the assembly instruction manual (AIM) and GM chassis service manual for your year. Both will be helpful.

69vettester

I agree
Find out whats up with your engine, start reseaching "tune engine"
and basic tune up, change plugs and wires ect. If theres a bad component (Carb for instance) Troubleshoot it, if you suspect it bogus, replace it.

For the peace of mind Get the engine to where your happy that you have a running car. Then go after Frame and suspension , wheel bearings all the Important stull with the Frame Off.

PS...ask questions and Post Pics too We like to watch Frame off progress in real time.

elke_10

That you just tap into the bat or red wire going into the HEI Dizzy. Or any 12V source under the hood that only has power when the Key is switched to on and does not have power when key is off or in ACC. If there is 2 wires connect 12V supply to either wires and ground the other wire

All it does is heat up a coil inside the choke with BAT power. Instead of using hot air from the manifold as it should of orginally had.

Thats alot of carb for a 350 that usually runs 600-650cfm. As stated above see what your CURB idle is as the idle may be to low to keep it running in drive. As i have noticed a auto tranny will suck up about 500RPM when in gear. Also do not trust the TACH in the car as it maybe off.

Fallen Angel

Alright, I suppose I'll start with finding what engine is in there. I have to take a look at the manual to see what vacuum lines to to the tranny as I have no idea right now.

The carb is likely lower cfm, I seem to remember the number 850 though.. I think I'm probably wrong about that. It did idle, not lopy or anything, nice idle. If i remember, I think the auto choke on this thing is an electric motor... I would be happy as a pig in bleep if it's as simple as a ignition hot hook up.

To the drawing board! I'll be back!

elke_10

lol well you will be happy as pig in bleep lol cuz for a electric choke as i said you can hook it up to any 12v supply that is hot with the ignition switch turned on and then not hot with the ignition switch turned in the off or ACC postion. Most common is tapping into the hot got to your DIZZY.

As for the motor thats simple look on the stamping pad passangers side front head right above the water pump it will be there unless the block was decked sometimes when decking a block the number will get ground off. Then google chevy block i.d. and you will get a huge list of places that will break down the numbers.

engine will be something like CLH,DRH,CLC, all depending on what kinda vechile it cam out off then followed by that is the prodution number of the vechiles VIN

then be;low that is the date the block was made month day year also the plant it was made at

As for the vacuum for the tranny its on the vacuum tree on the intake that is between the DIZZY and CARB its a steel line that goes down the top of the bell housing right beside the DIZZY and has a rubber end on it going to the vacuum tree. also on that tree is your vacuum
for your Lights

As for the 850cfm holly you might be mistaking as i think pretty much holly is assicioated with the 850 double pumper by everyone in the world

redman76

Read the sticky above titled "Info on Timing . . . ". It has a lot of great information on timing that is critical for proper operation. I agree with others on the idle; I kept increasing mine until I could put in gear and it not die, but timing has a lot to do with it as well. We are very visual, so help us help you by taking pics of your problem areas (you need to post on a host site like Photobucket and put the image link into your thread). You will also want to break your thread into multiple threads that focus on your specific question/project.

There is a lot of good info you can mine out of CF using the Advanced Search feature too. Most of us are going through or have gone through the same issues, so you will get alot of help here. Don't get discouraged if some of your threads seem to bomb and fall to the bottom. It happens to everyone, you just have to be persistant and patient (same thing with your C3). Sounds like you have at least some basic wrenching skills, so you will be able to work on just about everything. Do you homework and research everything thoroughly . . . it's all here for the asking and reading. Good luck with your project and welcome to CF.