LuC3FeR

Mechanically, I'm a total newbie, so I apologize in advance for any ignorance or stupidity regarding my assumptions / questions. I did run a search on this topic (and read for what seemed like hours ) but wanted to consolidate my thoughts/questions to ensure my understanding on this subject is current and correct.

I have a stock 74 convertible L82 4sp with 40K original miles. The mufflers are in rough shape (2/10 - one is rusted through, the other is on its death bed). The manifolds are in decent shape (6/10) and the pipes in between are worn but seemingly operational otherwise (5/10).

I plan to keep the vehicle as orignal as possible. She will never be professionally judged or trailored and I drive her as much as I can. I will be keeping the stock manifolds. Performance is important to me, but not at the cost of altering her "numbers matching" status.

My plan is to go with the Stainless Works 2.5" factory replacement system (piping, mufflers, and tips) from the manifolds back.

Questions:

1. The aluminized kit from Stainless runs approximately $380 before shipping. Are there any other vendors I should look at which have a comparable / superior set up? I don't mind paying more should the benefits justify the cost increase.

2. The kit does NOT include an x-pipe. Honestly, how much of a sound/performance difference does this make?

3. Should I decide to use an x-pipe, I noticed that Summit sells a universal piece for ~$80. Will this "work" in combination with the Stainless Works kit without too much modification/fabrication by the exhaust shop?

4. For those of you that use the Stainless Works exhaust: On their site, they seem to have 2 kits for the same price that look very similar (p/n V7303200A and V6803000A). What are the differences between them?

5. For those of you that use the Stainless Works exhaust: Since hindsight is 20/20, how do you like this system and would you recommend it, or should I merely upgrade my mufflers and leave the stock piping as is?

6. Are the mufflers included in the Stainless Works kit factory replacements, or are they better performing / sounding (i.e. Magnaflows / Dynomax / etc.)? Are they the "round" style, or the "hideaway" style? I want to minimize the drone, vibration, etc. associated with some exhaust systems while optimizing performance and sound.

7. And finally, are there any other options / items that I'm overlooking? I will not be performing the work myself, and do not want to encounter any surprises along the way.

Once again, thank-you for taking the time to assist. I do want to say that this is THE best resource available, especially for those like myself, as there are so many experts willing to share their professional opinions and experiences. You are big assets to this site!

Best regards.

aC

1971 LS-5

I used Stainless Works' exhaust pipes for my exhaust system. These are mandrel bent pipes. Really, the only place you need the mandrel bends is in the S curve under the differential to the muffler. They tuck up nice.

71406

While I have no experience with the product your refer to, you claim to be a "newbie"...are you sure you are ready to install a stainless exhaust system? Fitment in some systems can be a challenge, which can be frustrating at best. For this reason you may want to check out some local muffler shops in your area that can custom build the system you are looking for. I think you also might be surprised how inexpensive this route can be. Bring your car in and talk to them. Even if you decide to install the system yourself, you could get answers to some of your questions. Good luck!

7T1vette

The system may come from "Stainless Works", but if it is an 'aluminized' system, it isn't stainless steel...it is mild steel with an aluminized coating. They may also sell a stainless steel system, but it is probably much more expensive. Check into this with a call to them to be certain of what you will be getting. [I've never heard of an 'aluminized' stainless steel system].

If you add an X or H pipe, your system will not be 'stock' looking. It also won't really add much to engine performance; it may [or may not] improve the sound quality.

0Stainless Works

When it comes down to it, this is a factory replacement system that just happens to be mandrel bent. For the money of the aluminized version, you cant beat the quality and workmanship. If I were to take the time and do the exhaust, I would definitely do the SS version though. As far as fitment and ease of installation, my wife could do the install on her back with the car on jack stands

Let me know if you have any other questions, Ill be more than happy to help out.

-Anthony

LuC3FeR

Thank-you all for your help and positive responses . Anthony, I'll give you a shout should I have more questions.

Take care all.

aC

Swift_C3

I fix computers and work on them constantly with that said I know how mechanical devices work though I'm mechanically impaired and never had anything but forums, youtube, and a few books to teach me.

With that said, it doesn't take rocket science to replace an exhaust system, a few bolts here and there, and possibly the use of a hack saw or hammer will get it done. With my lack of mechanic credentials, I did a full exhaust (headers back) and a full coil-over suspension on my RX-7, the thing with exhausts from online orders is fit, it either fits, or maybe you need to tweak it a bit (soft hammer) or it doesn't fit.... so basically as Stainless Works said, "my wife could do the install on her back with the car on jack stands " ..... but I did mine (the RX-7) in my mothers driveway while on liberty one weekend and it took a bit of time because I had to hacksaw some of the rusted portions.

I Think you'll be ok! just make sure someone knows your working on the car and will be under it, so they can check on you from time to time.

Peterbuilt

Did I read that right, you have stock cast iron manifolds?
If so then the nuts and studs can be hard to remove after 37 years.

0Stainless Works

Nothing a gas wrench cant take care of

RobRace10

That certainly is the required method, but I'm not sure a "newbie" mechanic should be using a gas wrench while working on his back in a garage.