psycho dad

Anyone have any idea why 2 wheel lugs snapped off my RR wheel?
They were bouncing around in my wheel cap, so they must have broke at the same time.

Also, how do I replace them? I got the rotor off but I'm not sure what to do next. Untill now I managed to go my whole life without having to replace a lug bolt.

- Jay

Peterbuilt

The problem will be with the backing plate. The old lug will press out of the axel but the new one is to long to fit.
You have to take the whole trailing arm apart or bore a hole in the backing plate.

ixlor8

The studs are pressed in.

I wonder why they broke??

nutsy

i never changed 1 on my vette but changed many on other chevys. after knocking old one out i turned axle until i was able to get the new 1 one place. then i use a large nut that is able to slip over the new lug. i put a washer over that ,then tighten the lug with a lug nut and it will pull it through as you tighten it. hope this helps, nutsy. also if your lugs come loose they can break.

TheSkunkWorks

Over the years, age and abuse most apparently add up.

My dad's DD had one cross-threaded last time he bought tires, which was discovered when it snapped as we went to change the pads the other day. Also, I once ripped all five out of a stub axle on my shark, and Bubba hadn't been anywhere near it. Healthy BB's seem to break things. 3" x 1/2" HD's back there now...

stock76

Metal fatigue and/or over torqueing the studs is probably the culprit.

psycho dad

Hmmm... I bet the CORVETTE mechanic who installed my new exhaust took that tire off and didn't tighten them, a 3rd one was on finger tight

vettehardt

A torque wrench is a very good investment. If you have anybody else service your car it would be agood idea to go around and check them afterwards.

I do all my own work. Whenever i do take off/put on wheels or my 3" adapters, they get torqued to 90. I've never had one break.

7T1vette

If the studs failed in "fatigue", the lug nuts weren't tightened enough (or at all). If the studs failed by "fracturing", the lug nuts were overtorqued.

psycho dad

so.... do I need to remove the e-brake shoes, or pull the spindle?


Looks like I'm going to have to use heat to drive the studs out.

Peterbuilt

Yes you have to remove the brake shoes.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...e-rebuild.html
How many miles are on those rear wheel bearings? If the run out is good then you don't have to pull the axle out but you will need to bore a hole in the backing plate to insert the new studs.

Next time just loosen the caliper and move it out of the way.

Mark the position of the rotor to the axle and before you join the back together sand all the rust off.

psycho dad

thanks for the useful info Pete, and everyone else

Lee H

Would like to recomend replacing all 5 while your there.

psycho dad

Yep, all 5. I didn't mark the rotor before I removed it, is that bad?

TheSkunkWorks

It's a good idea to mark the rotor before removing so you can index it back where it came from. Never a bad idea to check whenever things are apart, but now you really need to measure rotor runout (dial indicator required) to make sure you clock it back to its happy place when re-installing.

Happy 4th

psycho dad

I'm not sure what run out is.
What will happen if I don't put it back the way it came off?

Peterbuilt

The break pads on our C-3's are always in contact with the rotor, if the rotor has a wobble the pads move out to far and get pushed into the caliper bore to far. If this "Run-Out" is beyond the design limits then the seals start to pump air into our brake system then the brakes fail.
When new the rotor was mated to the axle, Run Out was checked and the parts were riveted together.
It is best to install the rotor in the same position to avoid a run out problem.

Video on run out: www.brakealign.com/

spinadog

What a great video - clearly and comprehensively describes runout. I like the idea of the product too - wonder what they cost?