heater hose shut off valve, help!
06-23-2010, 05:17 PM
#41
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I am redoing my heater hoses this weekend....I may include a shutoff like Pauls.
My questions is.......can that setup be moved towards the wheel well or someplace a little less noticeable?
My questions is.......can that setup be moved towards the wheel well or someplace a little less noticeable?
06-23-2010, 05:44 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Roger has the location correct. Some A/C cars have it, some don't. Here's a few tips about heat in the cabin and the shut off valve.
It takes vacuum to shut off the supply of hot water to the heater core. If you have a shut off valve, disconnect the vacuum line from it and connect a vacuum guage. Viewing the guage from the seat through the windshield with the car running, slide the temp lever all the way to the left (cold). You should get full vacuum on the guage. Sometimes the temp slide can move ever so slightly to the right after you set it to full left. ANY slight movement off of full dead stop cold will cause the vacuum to be lost. Run the car for a while to see if the level drifts off of full left.
There is a cable/vacuum valve behind the passenger glove box/globe pockets that controls this. According to the service manual there is a turnbuckle in the cable to make adjustments.
Also, the very small vacuum hose connected to the hot water shut off valve gets brittle from the engine compartment heat and 30 years or so of service. I found radial cracks in the tube that opened only when flexing the tube with the vacuum guage attached. I cut back the tube and reconnected it.
Lastly, in addition to the importance of adding a shut off valve follow other suggestions from this forum about mitagating cabin heat. Such things as thermal insullation in the trans tunnel or floor boards, making sure your side vents close all the way, installing the foam trans tunnel collar that GM removed at some point in the C3 production. You can buy this from most Corvette vendors for $15.00. My '73 has one, my '79 does not.
BTW...You can put the shut off valve anywhere in the feed hose.
It takes vacuum to shut off the supply of hot water to the heater core. If you have a shut off valve, disconnect the vacuum line from it and connect a vacuum guage. Viewing the guage from the seat through the windshield with the car running, slide the temp lever all the way to the left (cold). You should get full vacuum on the guage. Sometimes the temp slide can move ever so slightly to the right after you set it to full left. ANY slight movement off of full dead stop cold will cause the vacuum to be lost. Run the car for a while to see if the level drifts off of full left.
There is a cable/vacuum valve behind the passenger glove box/globe pockets that controls this. According to the service manual there is a turnbuckle in the cable to make adjustments.
Also, the very small vacuum hose connected to the hot water shut off valve gets brittle from the engine compartment heat and 30 years or so of service. I found radial cracks in the tube that opened only when flexing the tube with the vacuum guage attached. I cut back the tube and reconnected it.
Lastly, in addition to the importance of adding a shut off valve follow other suggestions from this forum about mitagating cabin heat. Such things as thermal insullation in the trans tunnel or floor boards, making sure your side vents close all the way, installing the foam trans tunnel collar that GM removed at some point in the C3 production. You can buy this from most Corvette vendors for $15.00. My '73 has one, my '79 does not.
BTW...You can put the shut off valve anywhere in the feed hose.
Last edited by 08vycpe; 06-23-2010 at 05:46 PM. Reason: added BTW...
06-23-2010, 06:16 PM
#43
Race Director
It takes vacuum to shut off the supply of hot water to the heater core. If you have a shut off valve, disconnect the vacuum line from it and connect a vacuum guage. Viewing the guage from the seat through the windshield with the car running, slide the temp lever all the way to the left (cold). You should get full vacuum on the guage. Sometimes the temp slide can move ever so slightly to the right after you set it to full left. ANY slight movement off of full dead stop cold will cause the vacuum to be lost. Run the car for a while to see if the level drifts off of full left.
There is a cable/vacuum valve behind the passenger glove box/globe pockets that controls this. According to the service manual there is a turnbuckle in the cable to make adjustments.
To stop this backward movement I push the cable to hot which extends the wire cable , then close to the housing I take a pair of pliers and bend a shallow dogleg in the wire. When you move the cable towards cold the dogleg will go inside the cable housing creating some resistance which usually stops the backward movement and keeps the water valve in the closed position.
Last edited by ...Roger...; 06-23-2010 at 06:18 PM.
06-23-2010, 06:57 PM
#44
Team Owner
You can put wherever you wish. Heck we are only talking about $10.00 of 5/8" hose. Do some experiments. No matter where you put it the flow to the heater core will be stopped. Some people do not seem to understand the obvious.
Last edited by Paul L; 06-23-2010 at 07:00 PM.
06-23-2010, 08:37 PM
#45
Intermediate
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I was just gonna say that..........kidding
The valve right on the pump looks abit more refined, or I should say more to my taste,
And I DO like the alternator belt tensioning adjuster doo wha there..........
The valve right on the pump looks abit more refined, or I should say more to my taste,
And I DO like the alternator belt tensioning adjuster doo wha there..........
06-24-2010, 01:41 AM
#47
Drifting
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Gingerbreadman: Any chance you can shoot a close-up of the valve setup in the manifold. I can see the pump valve just sticks up straight, but not sure how the other valve is configured. Also are both valves the same size?
A while back......one of my friends had a car which would not provide heat in the middle of winter in Philadelphia. He change the thermostat, still no heat. Solution was to bleed the coolant through both heater hoses and the heater core. Now would that work for is in reverse?
no problem tea eye . both valves are the same - both 1/2 inch and it doesnt matter that both hoses are different sizes. both valves have a male and female end so i screwed the male end straight into the manifold and water pump . on the valve that goes into the manifold because of the way my fuel line goes i had to come above it so i used a chrome m&f 1/2 elbow which also shot me in the right direction for the hose. all i did then was used the correct barb sizes to fit the different size hoses.
and here is a short video which gives you quite a good view of how they are configured
A while back......one of my friends had a car which would not provide heat in the middle of winter in Philadelphia. He change the thermostat, still no heat. Solution was to bleed the coolant through both heater hoses and the heater core. Now would that work for is in reverse?
no problem tea eye . both valves are the same - both 1/2 inch and it doesnt matter that both hoses are different sizes. both valves have a male and female end so i screwed the male end straight into the manifold and water pump . on the valve that goes into the manifold because of the way my fuel line goes i had to come above it so i used a chrome m&f 1/2 elbow which also shot me in the right direction for the hose. all i did then was used the correct barb sizes to fit the different size hoses.
and here is a short video which gives you quite a good view of how they are configured
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; 06-24-2010 at 01:46 AM.
06-24-2010, 09:07 AM
#48
Gingerbreadman: Thanks for the Pic and explanation. After watching the configuration video with Gingerbreadwoman, I'm ready to make the upgrade.
I liked the sound of that engine too!
Good day!
I liked the sound of that engine too!
Good day!
06-24-2010, 09:17 AM
#49
Racer
I wish my cabin temp issue could be solved like that. I have no insulation between the motor/tranny and the flight-deck. I think I'll install the shut off just the same, every little bit helps. Great thread, thanks All.
Later, Rog.
Later, Rog.
06-24-2010, 09:34 AM
#50
Burning Brakes
78-82 There is a vacuum valve the cable must push,after the cable gets some years on it it begins to move too easily and the spring inside the vac valve will push the cable backwards closing the vac valve which then reopens the water shutoff valve.
To stop this backward movement I push the cable to hot which extends the wire cable , then close to the housing I take a pair of pliers and bend a shallow dogleg in the wire. When you move the cable towards cold the dogleg will go inside the cable housing creating some resistance which usually stops the backward movement and keeps the water valve in the closed position.
To stop this backward movement I push the cable to hot which extends the wire cable , then close to the housing I take a pair of pliers and bend a shallow dogleg in the wire. When you move the cable towards cold the dogleg will go inside the cable housing creating some resistance which usually stops the backward movement and keeps the water valve in the closed position.
