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Camshaft timing 180° out : You'll have to remove damper, water pump, timing cover.
Ignition timing 180° out : Only remove the distributor, turn the bottom gear 180°, put it back in place.
Camshaft timing 180° out : You'll have to remove damper, water pump, timing cover.
Ignition timing 180° out : Only remove the distributor, turn the bottom gear 180°, put it back in place.
cant get any more simplier than that.
what makes u think its 180* out?
73StreetRace if I turn the distribtor 180* dose that change the position of the #1 cylinder
I suppose you were firing N°6 instead of N°1, so if you turn the distributor gear by 180° you will fire the right cylinder.
You don't have to change any spark plug wire position.
Just adjust timing with a stroboscopic light after that.
Set it at 36° total timing. See Lars papers.
Mikejpss I put a compression tester on the #1 cylinder and dial back timing light, I can just see the timing mark at atdc side just above the water pump bolt.
If you want to be sure that your distributor timing is correctly set, remove cylinder #1 spark plug.
Then have some someone put his finger on the #1 spark plug hole while you slowly crank the engine.
When he feels pressure under his finger, it means that cylinder N°1 is on compression stroke.
Keep cranking the engine until the timing pointer reaches TDC on the harmonic damper.
Now remove the distributor cap and look at your distributor rotor : it should be exactly in front of cylinder #1 ignition wire.
you don't turn the distributor 180, rotate the shaft.....a easier fix is to change the wires in the cap 180 degrees...but the purists have to look for #1 on the cap whether its right or wrong....its OK, as long as its firing on the correct cylinder....
you don't turn the distributor 180, rotate the shaft.....a easier fix is to change the wires in the cap 180 degrees...but the purists have to look for #1 on the cap whether its right or wrong....its OK, as long as its firing on the correct cylinder....
That is what most do not understand. It makes no difference how the distributer is installed. As long as the wires are on the correct terminals and the right location for how the distributer is installed it will fire correctly. If it is out 180 just install the wires 180 out and it will work. Now it should be installed with the vacuum advance pointing to the passenger side and you want the tach cable pointing in the right direction if you have a tach cable.
I pulled the distributer rotated 180* and all it would do is backfire through the carb. I then rotated it back 180* with the cap still off the distributer put the compression tester back in the # 1 cylinder bumped the key untill I got compression, the rotor was pointing to the correct # 1 post. I locked the distributer down put cap back on and started it up. Fired right up I put the timing light on it and again I do not see the timing mark. I have no idea what the timing is, base or all in. Any other thoughs on this. thanks
cam shaft install all went well fired right up for brake in at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. I put a timing light on it durning brake in, @ 2000 rpm right on the 0 mark.
You could buy a timing tape, or just make one and paste it on your damper : http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...keyword=timing
Just buy the one corresponding to your damper diameter.
With the stroboscopic light on it, when you blip the throttle, you should see the timing tape moving. This will tell you where you are exactly.
Then rotate slightly the distributor CCW to increase initial timing and CW to decrease it.
12° - 16° initial is a good starting point for a performance engine.
When initial is in the ball park, adjust what is really important : Total timing ( w/o vacuum advance ) 36° +/- 2°
Just another thing I was thinking about :
If you changed the camshaft, did you check that the 0° mark on the harmonic damper is still indicating the real piston TDC ?
You can check it easily with the help of a piston stop :
Eddie 70 you nailed it right on the head. where they pressed the balancer togather, that is where it slipped. That is why its running good timing is still correct I just don't no what it is. I'll put a degreed tape on the balancer to try an get a good Idea what the timing is now but it could slip again. Thank you to everyone with your Ideas on how to help. Great forum.
Eddie 70 you nailed it right on the head. where they pressed the balancer togather, that is where it slipped. That is why its running good timing is still correct I just don't no what it is. I'll put a degreed tape on the balancer to try an get a good Idea what the timing is now but it could slip again. Thank you to everyone with your Ideas on how to help. Great forum.
If it has slipped it is time NOW for a new balancer. They have been known to slip right off and cause damage. If you are sure it has slipped get a new one and install it.
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180* out on timing, whats the best fix?
