top two bolts on the trans
#1
top two bolts on the trans
Any secrets to gaining access/removing the top two bolts on the TH350 trans with out taking out the engine? A special tool? a custom tool? 80' vette with a 350.
Also, an ideas how to remove a stripped bolt head on the drive shafts ujoints? The bolt on the drive shaft by the rear end is stripped... have no idea how to get it off because there is no room for a tool....
Also, an ideas how to remove a stripped bolt head on the drive shafts ujoints? The bolt on the drive shaft by the rear end is stripped... have no idea how to get it off because there is no room for a tool....
Last edited by glarior; 05-11-2010 at 02:06 AM.
#2
Safety Car
If you remove the trans crossmember and let the engine/trans tilt down, you should be able to reach the top bolts with some extensions and a u-joint. As for removing the bolt with a rounded head, just get some of those sockets designed to do this. Craftsman, as well as other manufacturers, has a set. This is one of those easier said than done jobs, though. You have to get to the bolts by passing the socket on a long extension through the driveshaft tunnel.
#4
Drifting
There's really no way around it, these bolts require sacrifices of blood and flesh before they'll yield.
At least they're not all studs with crush nuts like GM went to in the 90's!
At least they're not all studs with crush nuts like GM went to in the 90's!
#5
Burning Brakes
For the ujoint strap you can try a medium sized vice grip first if it will fit in there.
Otherwise you need a dremmel with metal cutting disc's and lots a patience. Cut the exposed round strap end first then push whats left toward the pinion flange and cut the rest of the round strap flush with the nut.
Otherwise you need a dremmel with metal cutting disc's and lots a patience. Cut the exposed round strap end first then push whats left toward the pinion flange and cut the rest of the round strap flush with the nut.
#7
If you remove the trans crossmember and let the engine/trans tilt down, you should be able to reach the top bolts with some extensions and a u-joint. As for removing the bolt with a rounded head, just get some of those sockets designed to do this. Craftsman, as well as other manufacturers, has a set. This is one of those easier said than done jobs, though. You have to get to the bolts by passing the socket on a long extension through the driveshaft tunnel.
I will try that and see how it works. For the craftsman set I have one but it does not go small enough to fit the 1/4 size bolt... bleh. Wait, positive side is I can go look/buy more tools
#8
Race Director
If you remove the trans crossmember and let the engine/trans tilt down, you should be able to reach the top bolts with some extensions and a u-joint. As for removing the bolt with a rounded head, just get some of those sockets designed to do this. Craftsman, as well as other manufacturers, has a set. This is one of those easier said than done jobs, though. You have to get to the bolts by passing the socket on a long extension through the driveshaft tunnel.
#9
Melting Slicks
I just pull the distributor out of the block to gain access to the top tranny bolts. Chances of bending or doing any damage to it later are eliminated when you tip the trans back for the removal. You can jack the trans up a bit for even more top bolt clearance if you need it.
The pinion bolt thing,.....If you rotate the rear wheels you may find one magic spot where you can actually see the bolt. Getting it out,........Best of luck. Might want to head out to Sears or someplace that sells tools and get an extraction socket and extension so you can try the tunnel approach.
The pinion bolt thing,.....If you rotate the rear wheels you may find one magic spot where you can actually see the bolt. Getting it out,........Best of luck. Might want to head out to Sears or someplace that sells tools and get an extraction socket and extension so you can try the tunnel approach.
Last edited by The Money Pit; 05-11-2010 at 12:06 PM.
#10
Team Owner
There is no substitute for drenching 'dry' bolts/nuts in PB Blaster for a day or two before trying to remove them....
#11
Burning Brakes
I don't think there's enough room between the pinion yoke dust flange and the nuts of the straps to get a "Easy-out type" socket and ratchet head in there. I seem to recall that a box wrench just makes it in there with some room to spare.
I still think your gonna have to cut the strap, use a vice grip or split the nut.
I still think your gonna have to cut the strap, use a vice grip or split the nut.
#12
Advanced
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: Southgate MI
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From The Money Pit
"I just pull the distributor out of the block to gain access to the top tranny bolts. Chances of bending or doing any damage to it later are eliminated when you tip the trans back for the removal. You can jack the trans up a bit for even more top bolt clearance if you need it."
I agree with Money Pit plus on those top two bolts I use some heat from a propane torch on the cast iron where they screw into the block. It don't take much heat and I've got'em out on mine and friends of mine doing this
Tom1701
"I just pull the distributor out of the block to gain access to the top tranny bolts. Chances of bending or doing any damage to it later are eliminated when you tip the trans back for the removal. You can jack the trans up a bit for even more top bolt clearance if you need it."
I agree with Money Pit plus on those top two bolts I use some heat from a propane torch on the cast iron where they screw into the block. It don't take much heat and I've got'em out on mine and friends of mine doing this
Tom1701
#13
Thanks for the info! Those top two bolts I just cant get my hand in there to get leverage. From what everyone has said I will be able to unbolt it now.
The ujoint bolt... It will be a PITA but I will get it. There is just no room to get anything in there. I will try a bolt extracter kit if I can find one today and go from there. Thank goodness I bought all those extensions!
The ujoint bolt... It will be a PITA but I will get it. There is just no room to get anything in there. I will try a bolt extracter kit if I can find one today and go from there. Thank goodness I bought all those extensions!
#15
Burning Brakes
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from the top...
I just pull the distributor out of the block to gain access to the top tranny bolts. Chances of bending or doing any damage to it later are eliminated when you tip the trans back for the removal. You can jack the trans up a bit for even more top bolt clearance if you need it.
#16
Racer
OK a bubba trick for the rear u joint strap.Spray it up good with lube and take an old socket one size smaller,maybe even a metric and with an extention.hammer it on.then try with ratchet.good luck
#18
Got the transmission out! Very glad money pitt mentioned to remove the distributor or I would have crushed it! Now, I can try to extract that stripped bolt and replace it.
How bad is it to let the engine hang like that for a few days?
How bad is it to let the engine hang like that for a few days?