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You are doing an outstanding job on this and show some MAD mechanical skills for sure. I thought I was a badass 20 plus years ago when a buddy and I dropped a SBC in an s10 truck,this was before you could order things like motor mounts and headers etc but we are not even on the same playing field with you.Keep up the good work!!
My first swap was when my brother and I put a Buick 215 ci Aluminum V8 in a Triumph TR7...Then I put one (Buick aluminum V8) in my BMW 78 320i...
Anyway- back to the build--
The Hyd Throw out was an old Keisler piece a buddy gave when he couldn't get it to work on his 66vette.
I measured and measured..and have come to the conclusion I will have to make a spacer right at a ―"- so I won't run out of throw to disengage the clutch.
I just happen to have a spare nose-input retainer from a Tremec and will just mill it down.
Next have to figure out and make up a hardline to the throwout bearing...Then it's time for the engine to go back in....
Last edited by Richard454; 08-24-2017 at 10:35 PM.
I researched all types of throwout bearings. The Mclead-Tilton-Quartermaster and others are shimmed -to give a 125-.200" air-gap between the bearing face and the clutch fingers.
There in lies the problem- as the clutch disc wears the fingers move out- or toward the bearing- and then could possible be in constant contact w/ the clutch fingers-wearing the bearing out as it is not designed for this. To correct requires transmission removal and re-shimming.
The other issue w/ the type of Hyd Throwout bearings is over extension resulting leaking- if not set up properly. Most of them do not have a stop on them- supposedly the new Mclead has one now- just google "McLeod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing Trouble" and you will see pages of forum talk about it. Or just ask the guys a Summit about the returns on them!!!
The Keisler piece is just like the OEM designs- is spring loaded and is designed for constant contact w/ the clutch fingers. Set up properly will never need adjustment- even as the disc wears.
The only issue w/ the Keisler design was bleeding- but I have redesigned/replaced the ss rubber line w/ a hardline like was used on later models and hopefully solve any issues.
I will test BEFORE I drop the engine and trans back in the car.
I stopped by my buddy's machine shop today and milled down the nose to make a spacer. Measured several times and it looks like it is the right size.
Richard
Last edited by Richard454; 08-24-2017 at 10:36 PM.
really good to see you follow through to get this finished. All the haters can go enjoy their factory setup just like every other boring factory setup. The attention to detail is what is going to set this off. It would be one thing if you were just dropping a factory bmw 12 in there but to go the extra mile and make it look correct is just whats going to make this car feature worthy.
Jag V-12's are nice but down on power compared to a small block Chevy.
GM did try a Falconer V-12 in a C4. 601 cubic inch, 660-horsepower and 782 ft./lb. of torque.
Yes, the Jaguar V-12 weighs more than a small block Chevy and cannot produce the HP of a SB. For a street driven car, or even a race track driven car, it's not a slam dunk that an overhead cam engine can outperform a pushrod engine. Point in fact, the superior performance of today's Corvette's with pushrod engines. An overhead cam engine, particularly a twin overhead cam engine, greatly increases the volume envelope of an engine. All this extra volume..the hp advantage is problematical for a street car. As a GM engineer said at one of our Corvette club meetings..given a defined volume in a car into which to install an engine, a pushrod engine can produce much more HP than an overhead twin cam engine. The pushrod engine in my C6 will rev at 6500 rpm...I'm not saying that based on the tach red line...I'm saying that because the dyno guy blasted it at 6500 rpm several times to adjust the supercharger.
Time for an update...Got a little sidetracked when I bought a 73 coupe at the end of April to take on the Hotrod Power Tour the first of June. Completely went over the car -new wheel bearing-tires-fuel lines-carb-fluid changes- sortied it out then drove it 2900 miles in one week-Thankfully I had no problems!!!
Here it is in Bettendorf ,IA
I have the engine and trans in the car for the final time. Got the driveshaft made up- nice snug fit. When w/ a new dry sump pump and had to change the pulley sizes since it's mainly a street car
I found some really neat velocity stacks on ebay-
Here's my driveshaft w/ the carbon fiber treatment-
Here's my solution for the back-up lights
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For helping the cabin stay cool- I covered it w/ 'Zero Clearance' heat shielding-
I beefed up the firewall for the Hyd Clutch set up-
I made up a cover for my wiper door motor-
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Last edited by Richard454; 08-24-2017 at 10:48 PM.
Thank you so much for the update. The project is getting closer to completion and it is just amazing. I noticed that the nylon in the Nyloc nuts on the transmission aren't engaged by the bolts. I'm guessing you used some Loctite instead but just in case, thought I'd point it out.
Thank you so much for the update. The project is getting closer to completion and it is just amazing. I noticed that the nylon in the Nyloc nuts on the transmission aren't engaged by the bolts. I'm guessing you used some Loctite instead but just in case, thought I'd point it out.
Hey Bob-
Thanks for the encouragement!!
And thanks for pointing that out- yes, I did use Loctite. The bolts are threaded into the ― aluminum adapter plate. And the black bolt -that's most noticeable- was a hex socket so it would fit against the weld.
And here's my idea/ project a BMW V12- NO frame mods/NO firewall mods/ Stock motor mount bolted to a mount I made that bolts to the stock V12 block mounts- Will even fit under a small block hood....
It fits- w/ no real issues-
What do you think??? Or Flame away......
Richard
I like engine swaps, and am not a purist. Now that I've said that, what are your motivations here? Power will be adequate, and it'll be very smooth. Is it the challenge?
I like engine swaps, and am not a purist. Now that I've said that, what are your motivations here? Power will be adequate, and it'll be very smooth. Is it the challenge?
Yes...I like challenges...Thanks for asking!!!
AND have you ever driven a V12-my motor will create full torque just off idle and flat line to 5000RPM. An V12 unmodified moves my 4400lbs 7series quite smooth and effortlessly.
Gave up street racing long ago-I now enjoy driving the car- shows- events- Hot Rod Power Tour. This one will be driven.
I recently drove my basically stock 73 for 2900 miles- sort of gave me a perspective of exactly how to make the build more drivable. Here's the list of what I want this car to have- yet still appear stock at first glance.
-The heat radiation is really BAD. Glad I am getting this problem addressed w/ the Zero Clearance and Lizard Skin.
-The seat belts sux-will need some thing off a newer car to be usable.
-The door pulls-wimpy- I've ordered some off a 66 C2 that are metal (only year) 65 and 67 are plastic like the C3.
-Drink holders-the girlfriend came in handy for that on the Hotrod Power Tour- but I want to make something incorporated into the interior that works. I have ordered an E-Stopp- electronic parking brake- so I can get rid of the parking Brake Handle and make a concealed drink holder.
-Windshield wipers-not too good- thinking the arms need some weight or better aerodynamic- at speed they were useless-and will add a delay to them- Lectric Limited has a new fully electronic brainbox for the 78-82- so I'll incorporate that.
-Cruise control- think will be a must now. Dakota Digital has something that should work for a few hundred bucks.
-12 volt outlet- I did add a standard size charger outlet for GPS /Phone/IPAD in the 73- but I'm thinking just modify the original location of the cigarette lighter for a couple outlets and ditch the ashtray- but then will need something for small trash.
Here's the e Stopp parking brake I just ordered- very cool!!!
-The door pulls-wimpy- I've ordered some off a 66 C2 that are metal (only year) 65 and 67 are plastic like the C3.
The handle will fit into the inner door cover, but one of the screws comes out in an angle the wonīt fit into the hole in the door.
(ask me why i know )
You will have to modify the door a little to make it fit.
The handle will fit into the inner door cover, but one of the screws comes out in an angle the wonīt fit into the hole in the door.
(ask me why i know )
You will have to modify the door a little to make it fit.
Hey Zuendler-
I just got the pulls today- much more substantial than the wimpy rubber ones- has a much better feel. That was the first thing my Girlfriend said about the 73-She closed the door and said -"these feel cheap" and she drives a Toyota Camry!!!
They are close- but I do see where it will take a little modification to make work- but think I am up to it!!!
Well, compared to your V12 swap this is really no challange for you
These C2 handles are really nice, I wanted them too. But then they didnīt fit, they had to be machined to match the angle of the screw hole, or my new door panels had to be modified. And after months of a complete interior restoration I wanted to have it finished soon and installed the normal C3 handles.
And yes, they feel cheap.
03-09-2014, 11:41 PM
really good to see you follow through to get this finished. All the haters can go enjoy their factory setup just like every other boring factory setup. The attention to detail is what is going to set this off. It would be one thing if you were just dropping a factory bmw 12 in there but to go the extra mile and make it look correct is just whats going to make this car feature worthy.
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