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How to diagnose hot starting issue?

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Old 04-20-2010, 09:30 PM
  #21  
cardo0
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Default Get a good heat shield.

While u do need good electrical connections what u are describing is heat soak from the exh manifold. As copper wire of the motor and solenoid windings heats up the electrical resistance increases and current decreases. Those wrap type shields are not shielding anything just wrapping in the heat once the starter heats up. Think thermodynamics here - heat conduction occurs when materials touch. Also when an air gap exists (no matter how small) heat can be carried away by convection. Where is your stock heat shield? All BB and sb corvette starters had a heat shield from the factory.

A remote solenoid ony adds more contact resistance between the battery and the solenoid/stater which drops voltage between battery and solenoid/starter which helps nothing - and that would only be permanant if left installed. Anyone that can read a very simple electrical diagram can see an "remote" solenoid just adds another set of contacts between the solenoid/starter. Just because FORD uses a remote solenoid doesm't mean it will help/fix a Chevy starter from heat soak. The FORD starter is a different design that uses permanent magnets and the starter motor windings field to pull in a lever arm that also throws out the Bendix gear where the Chevy uses its solenoid. The Chevy solenoid remains there still getting hot and doing all the hard work - pull in the contactor slug to send current to the starter windings and throws out the Bendix gear.

This looks like good heat shield on ebay for $14: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...item20b08d4ca5

And i have pix of the one i bought and modified from JC Whitney - Gold Tone part #15177G. Take a look at pix (#2) in my sig link: http://members.cardomain.com/cardo0

Hope this helps,
cardo0
Old 04-20-2010, 09:42 PM
  #22  
hnkajnk
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My problem with hot starts was resolved with new battery cables purchased at NAPA auto parts. They made them right in the shop. About $80 for 2 negative cables and a 7 foot positive cable. When I cut open the sheath from the old cables (originals) there was corrosion inside of the cables.
Old 04-20-2010, 09:50 PM
  #23  
Mark Battersby
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Default Battery Recommendations?

How many cranking amps for my 454?

Currently have 800

Thanks guys..

Aussie Mark
Old 04-28-2010, 12:04 PM
  #24  
Mark Battersby
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Well it wasn't the cable - replaced them all and a heat shield didnt solve the issue.....

Corvettes of Auburn said they have diagnosed the issue, and that it is in the ignition system, and the solution is to run a bypass to the starter?? They claim its a common fault, and common fix. Apparently it a $40 part plus an hour to fit.
Old 04-28-2010, 04:01 PM
  #25  
noonie
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You must test the amperage of the purple start wire at the starter. Just testing the voltage isn't good enough.
There needs to be enough inrush to latch the solenoid.
(All the Ford fix does is possibly increase amperage to the start terminal)

This was also a problem with Ford systems They revised their "start" wire at the starter. They had a TSB for it.

Just because you changed the starter doesn't mean much these days, have gotten many that were not up to par.
Old 04-28-2010, 10:02 PM
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volition
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Originally Posted by Mark Battersby
Well it wasn't the cable - replaced them all and a heat shield didnt solve the issue.....

Corvettes of Auburn said they have diagnosed the issue, and that it is in the ignition system, and the solution is to run a bypass to the starter?? They claim its a common fault, and common fix. Apparently it a $40 part plus an hour to fit.
They are probably referring to installing a remote Ford Solenoid. This completley bypasses the factory solenoid and will fix this issue. The issue is common to almost all GM cars that used the Gen1 smallblock.

Price is a little on the high side for the part but 1 hour labor is pretty fair.



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