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I royally screwed up (rear brake caliper mounting problem)

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Old 04-11-2010, 12:58 PM
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C3 4ME
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Default I royally screwed up (rear brake caliper mounting problem)

I took my leaky rear caliper off yesterday for a simple unbolt and replace. In the process, I've managed to strip the threads out of the caliper mounting bracket, one of the stupidest things I've ever done working on a car. I was absolutedly livid yesterday, good thing there was no beer in the house! After calming down, I just came in from taking a look at what needs to be done now. I see you can get a new mounting bracket, but my question is what is involved in replacing it? It looks like the hub has to come off so the mounting bracket can be removed, right? If that's the case, I guess I need to remove the trailing arm, and send it out to have the bracket replaced. Aren't I right that the hub is something you need specialized tools to set up correctly? Any other ideas?
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:12 PM
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Clams Canino
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
I took my leaky rear caliper off yesterday for a simple unbolt and replace. In the process, I've managed to strip the threads out of the caliper mounting bracket, one of the stupidest things I've ever done working on a car. I was absolutedly livid yesterday, good thing there was no beer in the house! After calming down, I just came in from taking a look at what needs to be done now. I see you can get a new mounting bracket, but my question is what is involved in replacing it? It looks like the hub has to come off so the mounting bracket can be removed, right? If that's the case, I guess I need to remove the trailing arm, and send it out to have the bracket replaced. Aren't I right that the hub is something you need specialized tools to set up correctly? Any other ideas?
You can't replace the caliper bracket without disturbing the rear wheel bearing setup. But so long as you change nothing you outta be able to regrease them and re-assemble as is. Can be done - on the car with correct ools.

The easiest thing you could do is put a NUT behind the stripped bracket - there is room.

Next easiest thing is to retap the existing bracket one size bigger - or even the next metric size bigger.

OR: You live right near ZIP Corvette - see if they can change the bracket "while you wait" at thier shop by appointment - it can be done right on the car. Just be firm that you don't want all new everything in that T/A - just a new bracket.


-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; 04-11-2010 at 01:21 PM.
Old 04-11-2010, 01:28 PM
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C3 4ME
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Yeah, Zip would be laughing at me right now. I was in there yesterday morning buying the caliper and new caliper hard line as well as the rubber line. I told them I'd be riding yesterday afternoon, since it was so nice outside. So much for well laid plans.
Old 04-11-2010, 02:43 PM
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I tapped mine for a 1/2 bolt.

You can also helicoil the hole...it will be better than new.
Old 04-11-2010, 04:19 PM
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C3 4ME
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Ok, based on a couple of responses, it sounds like a helicoil is the way to go. Anyone else care to chime in, especially on pros/cons of using a helicoil?
Old 04-11-2010, 04:37 PM
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Clams Canino
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OK - Helicoil wins.

-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; 04-11-2010 at 06:49 PM.
Old 04-11-2010, 06:33 PM
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helicoils work thread inserts work better,retapping will work but a thread insert is more durable
Old 04-11-2010, 06:42 PM
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Putting in a helicoil is by far your best solution. Cheap, easy, and the result is arguably stronger than the original. If you decide you want to replace the caliper bracket, you have to remove the spindle, which requires about $500 worth of special tools, which sometimes don't work. I have the tools and when I went to reomve one of mine, it was so tight, I had to pull the trailing arm off the car and use a 50 ton press to get it apart. You need to repack your wheel bearings every 30K or so anyway, but if they don't need to be done, do the helicoil.
Old 04-11-2010, 07:44 PM
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I think a Helicoil is the right solution for this problem. A fairly straight forward fix and makes this a minor mishap. Other fixes have their merrits too, but this will be by far the easiest and if done properly will function as well as the original did.
Old 04-12-2010, 06:56 PM
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Well I stopped by Zip on the way home and got to talk to the guy who rebuilds trailing arms all day. He said I could knock out the spindle and just replace the bracket, without having to do any technical set up on the spindle. I bought a new caliper mount bracket, and and spindle knocking tool, but have now found the spindle threads are buggered on the end. Also, there is no parking brake parts at all on that side. I'm condsidering just throwing a rebuilt trailing arm on it since by the time you add up a new spindle, a new bracket, and parking brake hardware, your damn close to hte price of a rebuilt arm anyway, which has all those parts new.
Old 04-13-2010, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
He said I could knock out the spindle and just replace the bracket, without having to do any technical set up on the spindle.
Once you press the spindle out, the old bearing is garbage, and you will need to replace it, which requires setting up the endplay again on the bearings.
Old 04-13-2010, 02:33 AM
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Default In for a penny, in for a pound!

Problems with the brake part, no parking brake. You can Bubba it up but in the long run, if your going to keep the car go for a new trailing arm on both sides and the parking brake and everything will work for 20 more years.
Old 04-13-2010, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by stinger12
Once you press the spindle out, the old bearing is garbage, and you will need to replace it, which requires setting up the endplay again on the bearings.
I strongly dissagree. People take them apart to re-pack them all the time. Check the manual.

-W
Old 04-13-2010, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
Well I stopped by Zip on the way home and got to talk to the guy who rebuilds trailing arms all day. He said I could knock out the spindle and just replace the bracket, without having to do any technical set up on the spindle. I bought a new caliper mount bracket, and and spindle knocking tool, but have now found the spindle threads are buggered on the end. Also, there is no parking brake parts at all on that side. I'm condsidering just throwing a rebuilt trailing arm on it since by the time you add up a new spindle, a new bracket, and parking brake hardware, your damn close to hte price of a rebuilt arm anyway, which has all those parts new.

Don't be so fast.. the rebuild guys will hit you for core fee's too. Like that spindle with the threads, and any other part they can justify.
I ran a die over both my spindles to clean up the threads myself.


-W
Old 04-13-2010, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
You can't replace the caliper bracket without disturbing the rear wheel bearing setup.

The bearing housing unbolts as a unit. You don't have to press any bearings off.
Old 04-13-2010, 10:09 AM
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Don't beat yourself up then, sounds like Bubba has been there before. Wouldn't be surprised if the threads were already damaged. Better have a close look at the other side as well

Good luck

Jim



Originally Posted by C3 4ME
Well I stopped by Zip on the way home and got to talk to the guy who rebuilds trailing arms all day. He said I could knock out the spindle and just replace the bracket, without having to do any technical set up on the spindle. I bought a new caliper mount bracket, and and spindle knocking tool, but have now found the spindle threads are buggered on the end. Also, there is no parking brake parts at all on that side. I'm condsidering just throwing a rebuilt trailing arm on it since by the time you add up a new spindle, a new bracket, and parking brake hardware, your damn close to hte price of a rebuilt arm anyway, which has all those parts new.
Old 04-13-2010, 12:16 PM
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Oh, I know I didn't screw up the threads on the spindle. Now I'm starting to wonder if I was the one who screwed up the threads for the caliper mounting bolts. Based on what I've now found, I'm not so sure I caused that problem. The one problem is I really don't have the money to do both trailing arms, (I really shouldn't be doing even one $$ wise), but if I do the passenger side will be new, and the drivers will not, until I can come up with enough $ to do that side too. Rebuilding both trailing arms is on my list, (although way down) in order of importance, since neither have been giving me any trouble.

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Old 04-13-2010, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
Oh, I know I didn't screw up the threads on the spindle. Now I'm starting to wonder if I was the one who screwed up the threads for the caliper mounting bolts. Based on what I've now found, I'm not so sure I caused that problem.
Probably not. On my 11K mile white79, someone had found it necessary to remove the rear rotors. Think they messed with the parking brakes as they were backed all the way off.
When I purchased it I decided to do the calipers as one was leaking and check out the non existant parking brakes. Found one mounting hole on the rear caliper stripped. Seems by removing the lock washer, that was enough for the bolt to catch some threads again.
Purchased a set of bolts for the front as they are 1/4" longer and used one of those in the bad hole. Gripped fine, altho I didn't torque it quite to specs.
Just something I'll keep an eye on.
Got parking brakes again, don't know what previous owner's problem was with them, and bolted the rotors back on.

Last edited by KapsSA; 04-13-2010 at 01:32 PM.
Old 04-13-2010, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
The bearing housing unbolts as a unit. You don't have to press any bearings off.
Yes, it does unbolt as a unit.

But then you still have to press the spindle out of that housing to; change the caliper bracket - which lies betwen the spindle flange and the bearing carrier (housing to you).

You ever actually done this? like with real fingers? or just read about it at a Holiday Inn express?

-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; 04-13-2010 at 02:08 PM.
Old 04-13-2010, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
...good thing there was no beer in the house...
There's where you missed it. Corvette brake work requires beer.



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