69 N.O.X. RATT

My beloved Vette is driving me crazy. I parked it today and went to leave and it would not start. I have a Optima battery and had the positve cable get loose a few weeks ago. Tightened it up and away I went.

Today I pulled the negative cable off and spit on it, put it back on and vroom. Went to get gas and nothing (5 minutes later) I took it off and gave the cable a good cleaning with emory cloth, vrooom. I shut the car off and hung out for a minute went to start it and nothing.

The short story is it will start then it won't. I have a mini starter and don't think it is heat soaked, when I turn the key the electric fans and fuel pumps turn on but the motor won't (no clicking nothing from the motor compartment). After I got it home and in the garage I shut it down then tried to start it and nothing.

Is it possible I have it grounded just enough it will work some times and sometimes not.

I know it might be hard to diagnose but I would listen to any opinions.

:chevy

SleekLines

I just had a similar problem with my wife's car. (Dodge Dynasty) She would shut off the car and try to start it back up. When you'd turn the key, you would get radio, elec fuel pump, and power to all other accessories. But when you turned the key to start the car, you would get nothing.

When I popped the hood, I found that about 2/3 of the negative cable had worked it's way out of the battery terminal clamp. So I disconnected the battery, removed both terminal connectors and replaced them. After re-connecting the cables and reclamping everything, I've yet to have a problem. Matter of fact, the new terminals seem to have helped fix some other nagging problems we were having with the power locks/windows and also the delayed wipers.

Sounds to me that your problem is either in the neg cable or the battery itself.

Just my 2 cents. :)

-Sleek

Stingy74

Maybe your solenoid is no good. I've had this same reoccuring problem in my 79 Riv. When it wouldn't start i'd get on my back and wiggle the wires going to the solenioed until i'd hear a click, then i'd know I was good to go. I did this for about six months before I had enough :lol:

lyonsh

Could be a battery cable going bad. All that shaking and such might be just enough to make enough wires "connect" so it will start, then it "relaxes" and won't start again.

Just a thought.

Corellian Corvette

I vote for changing the cables or terminals. Since I've been chasing some electical gremlins I've noticed that dirty or loose connections are everywhere. I also noticed that my negative battery cable had to be TIGHT over the battery post. Even if it was secure sometimes it would give me problems.

Also, it never hurts to do a good thorough inspection of your electical connections. When I got my car I was amazed how many connections were loose, slightly frayed, etc. I even had the ground strap off the starter going bad on one side that I never noticed. Replaced the cable and it fixed a bunch of problems.

I would get a beer, some sockets, and set aside a couple hours with some electic cleaner. It's probably something silly like that :)

Good luck!

mrvette

IF the lights are full brilliance, it still could be the frame cable from the passenger's side engine mount to frame...negative...that would kill the starter...otherwise not a ground....
more likely it's things like the neutral start switch...purple wires....
or clutch safety interlock...stick shift....same color...
possibly ignition switch on top of steering column, well hidden,....
possibly even just ign sw out of adjustment, never hitting starter contacts...unlikely though...
could be a bad solenoid, rare though...
check for tite connections at battery cable into starter...unlikely if lights are good and bright though...

mrvette72@interstateweb.net

Ben Taylor

I was having the same problems getting my 81 to start, I found out that my starter ground cable was fried from the exaust manifold, you should probably check your starter connections if it's not doing anything and all your other electrical stuff is working.

Aaron76

I would also check all the main conections don't forget to remove the grounding cable from the frame and clean it very well.
If that doesn't take care of it then you might want to check the neutral safety switch or the cluch intreupt switch. both of these could be questionable and intermitant. While still powering all othe systems.
I hope this helps.

69 N.O.X. RATT

I wil try some of these ideas, one (dumb) question what is the neutral safety and clutch iterupt. Where are these things.

I will post my findings :chevy

wcsinx

A worn starter motor can also cause intermittent problems like those you've described. When the brushes start to go out, they can no longer make a clean contact with the housing. Then it becomes a hit-or-miss situation as to whether or not your starter is going to spin. The easiest way to test for this is to take a wooden mallot and smack the side of the starter motor while someone tries to start the car. If it cranks up, then chances are you need a rebuild on that starter motor.

Ki m Le

69 N.O.X. RATT,
If Manual tran, the neutral safety switch is mounted on the clutch padel lever. (Above the Fuse panel)

If Auto tran, the neutral safety switch is mounted on the shifter.

Try to bypass the Neutral safety switch in both cases to see if it would start in "park" position.

69 N.O.X. RATT

I have a stick shift. My car will normally start in neutral without the clutch pushed in, does that change anything. I am ignorant to the electronics game. Sorry for the dumb question.

Ki m Le

That means someone already bypass your neutral safety switch!
Check the Purple wire at the "S" terminal on starter (Close to the engine block). Make sure the contact is tight, clean and not shorted to the starter bracket.

69 N.O.X. RATT

It looks like it is a heat problem. When I get in it cold it starts everytime. Drive it around and sometimes it does not want to start after sitting, let it sit for 15 minutes and starts right up.

I am going to try a heat shield, I have ceramic coated headers but it still gets hot under there. I was wrong it is not a mini starter it is the factory G.M off the 502's.

Thanks for all the help.

Woodstoc

Do you have a security system? May be a starter interrupt relay. If so, try jumping it out and see if the problem goes away. Also, on the later models there is a connector located on the passenger side of the engine compartment that Ken73 clued me into. Sometimes, this can interrupt the connection to starter selonoid. Don't know if yours is the same.

KENTUCKY81

My ignition switch relay was out. Its under the center console around the shifter. I think it was orange. Use to do the exact same thing.

69 N.O.X. RATT

I think I fixed it. I wrapped the headers for about a six inch area where they are closest to the starter and I wrapped the celinoid with header wrap. Took it out for a long drive to heat it up and started right up after wards five times in a row. I hope the wrap does not destroy my headers.

Forgive my spelling its late.

Aerovette

I had this happen with my 75. It was the ignition switch mounted on top of the steering column, but you probably have the key in the dash so I would assume the infamous hot starter syndrome GM is so well known for. Good luck, I hope your fix is final.

Ki m Le

69 N.O.X. RATT,
Ah! Your original post fool me:

"The short story is it will start then it won't. I have a mini starter and don't think it is heat soaked........"

Congratulation! You found the problem.