DJordan442

this is what the manufacturers recommend, at least for the balancer that I got from Jegs.

jimiscnc

one other thing i had a problem with; with a stock chevy balancer.

you should use some silicon sealer or something like that on the crank snout outer diameter and the I.D. of the balancer.

Otherwise, oil will seep out of the clearances on the shaft and the keyway. there is no seal to do this.

-just my two cents.

jim

ssenay72

Well i'm getting into this one myself, started last night and the cheap puller I had stripped right out in minutes. So i ran over to auto zone and bought their " OEM " Brand tool. Going to try it again tonight.


Few questions, do I use the pointed end or not? Should i pull the crank bolt back in and use that as a contact point for the puller at the crank? Wont putting pressure on the bolt damage the threads just as bad? Little confuse on what to do at that point. The rest of it is self explanatory. I'm just concerned about the main puller shaft and the crank threads.


When i finally got the cheapy puller set right and the pry bar in the right spot , the puller started to turn hard then poof got really easy. Thats when i noticed the threads creeping out of the puller plate/shaft area. I knew i toasted it!! So before i ruin the crank threads can someone guide me in that area?

I bought the installer tool also so i think i will be ok there. Is it recommended to change the woodruff key at the same time?

L88Plus

The pointed thing is a crank saver. It'll keep everything centered and prevent damage to the end of the crank snout. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE BIG WASHER THAT GOES WITH THE BOLT!!!

ssenay72

yeah thats what i thought, but i read somewhere or saw on you tube they didnt use it or something. The big washer meaning the crank bolt washer, yeah thats out, i replaced that bolt and washer when i did the pulley so thats not rusted on or anything.

KSM

Now thats a high quality puller

ssenay72

Well i bought the puller and installer from auto zone last night. Their " rental tool " type, but i just bought them instead. They were brand new. The other think i need to think about is pulling and installing the crank gear. I have a 3 jaw puller, so i assume that will pull it off. Can i use the balancer installer and a large socket to install the crank gear? Seems like that would work too.

Gilded_Splinters

"I little extra tip, I find once you've got the puller under tension, if you tap the puller with a medium sized hammer the shock through the assembly will often unseat the balancer."

I was just going to say that.

Glad it worked out for you.

ssenay72

hasnt worked yet, im gonna try again tonight to get the balancer off.

Gilded_Splinters

Sorry...I musta been projecting positivity your way.

Good luck then.

RATT7

When I did my cam change last year on the GMC truck, we used the same general puller available, but used the impact gun in place of the hand ratchet, it came off with no issues.

ssenay72

UPDATE: I got it all off. And your right, once you get the puller snug, give the balancer a light tap tap, i think that helped. Came right off. (with a decent puller this time!!)


So i got the new timing chain and cover back on. HERES THE PROBLEM...I started to install the new balancer, which went on about an inch or so and stopped. It jsut seem to bind up or something. How do I get that thing on easier than this!??! I have the right install tool. ( bought a decent one from autozone, works well)


Should i cool the crank snout? (loc tite freeze??) maybe heat the balancer? (its a summit balancer sum-161350)

ssenay72

Ok so i got it to go on a little further today with some grease and a little loc tite freeze :-) But I'm not sure its fully seated. I broke the dam tool once it stopped moving (right off at the crank too but luckily it spun right out)


How much clearance should there be from the balancer to the cover? Is this a good gauge to use? Im at about 15 mm. What would happen if its not fully seated? HELP!!


Should I get the really good tool from summit and see if it will go on anymore? Is it possible its hanging up on the crank gear key?


This Suks!! LOL

I just want to be sure before i put the water pump back on etc etc.

ssenay72

As you can see the timing tab doesnt quite work out too well either, i have two and they both fit the same way, too far out.

78 C3 Light Corvette Blue

Used a impact wrench to get mine off. They are on there at 60 lbs torque

ssenay72

Im trying to get the new one on. See above posts.

Anyone help here?

MotorHead

Put the pulleys on and eyeball them and see if they line up OK with the p/s pump and alternator.

Take the tab off and use a grinder to grind the top of it off at the 0 deg mark, man I've been working on these things too long, is there any job that isn't a a pain in the azz to do on these C3's ? I still have a hammer embedded in my garage wall from years ago

73StreetRace

Clearance between timing cover and harmonic balancer isn't the most important thing, not even pulleys alignment.
The damper snout MUST contact the crankshaft sprocket.
This sprocket is only a light press fit so it can move and cause timing chain misalignment.
Maybe your damper was machined with too much interference ( opposite of clearance ). It's only a question of less than 1/1000" ! A very good lubricant can help too.
In this case, you could try heating the balancer up and/or cooling the crankshaft snout with a freezing cool propellant.
Problem is it will be very hard to remove the balancer when you need to... and that's going to happen if the damper still doesn't want to go further.
And I would not recommend any hammer blow on a cast iron part that is going to spin at 6000RPM...

You should also check that there is no interference between the key groove in the balancer and the height of the crankshaft key.

This is what I would do if I were you :
I would put the balancer on a lathe, and with sand paper and the help of a micrometer,
I would increase the balancer bore diameter by about 0.02 mm. Then, I would try it again.

TopGunn

Funny...........sounds like me a long time ago....good one!

ssenay72

It went on quite a bit, then just got snug and the tool snapped. So I dont know if its the bore or it really is just seated. Thing is also thats an edelbrock timing cover so its different than the stock one. Looking at the stock cover and balancer, the stock one have indentations on the cover and is shaped different, so it kinda hard to compare the old one to the new set up since its all different.


Should i pull it again? Or just put a new tool on and see if it goes on more?