Replacing 1982 Fuel Pump w/1985
01-02-2010, 07:39 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replacing 1982 Fuel Pump w/1985
Hi guys, Hope you can help out. I purchased a 1985 ACdelco fuel pump (EP241/GM#25116163) and attempted to install it today into my 1982 Corvette. As you probably know, it was joy to get the pump & sender out the vehicle, but I did it. I do have some questions about rewiring the 1985 fuel pump into the 1982 pump/sender assembly.
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm?
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm?
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.
01-02-2010, 08:09 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
By correct setup I assume you mean a 1982 fuel pump. I'm with the understanding that installing a higher pressure version (1985) fuel pump solves many of the problems associated with the TBI units. I've read about this in a number of different places, here in corvette forum, but most recently here (crossfireinjection.net see FAQs item 5).
01-02-2010, 09:30 PM
#5
Safety Car
I did this mod and plan to use the EP241 for my LS1 project as well.
Just cut the wires at the old pump eyelet connections and splice in the new wires. Leave the cap on there as it serves as an energy kick start to get the pump motor turning from a dead stop.
-Thought about this and the way it is configured, in series, it is more likely a noise filter. Kick start caps are in parallel to the motor terminals.
The pump has a + and - marked on them. Look for these and don't mix them up.
The - side connects to the wire that connects to the steel tube.
The + side comes from the cap.
Reverse operation will give you no fuel pressure, but could also cause the pump to fail quick quickly as the fuel is used to lube-cool the pump.
Have fun. Great mod.
Brent.
Just cut the wires at the old pump eyelet connections and splice in the new wires. Leave the cap on there as it serves as an energy kick start to get the pump motor turning from a dead stop.
-Thought about this and the way it is configured, in series, it is more likely a noise filter. Kick start caps are in parallel to the motor terminals.
The pump has a + and - marked on them. Look for these and don't mix them up.
The - side connects to the wire that connects to the steel tube.
The + side comes from the cap.
Reverse operation will give you no fuel pressure, but could also cause the pump to fail quick quickly as the fuel is used to lube-cool the pump.
Have fun. Great mod.
Brent.
Last edited by MN-Brent; 01-03-2010 at 01:00 PM.
01-03-2010, 12:53 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Loop a String around the Float for the Fuel Gauge when You put it together. Turn the Key on and Make sure You like what the Gauge is doing before You bolt it all back in. If you like what You see drop one end of the String and pull it out.
01-03-2010, 01:00 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
01-03-2010, 07:25 PM
#10
Instructor
easy mod to do, I used the rubber hose that came with the new pump. I reinstalled the new pump like the old one came out. I connected the wires wrong the first time and when i tryed to start the car....nothing, so i changed the wires around and the pump has been running great, its been 4 years now.
09-16-2015, 05:53 PM
#11
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easy mod to do, I used the rubber hose that came with the new pump. I reinstalled the new pump like the old one came out. I connected the wires wrong the first time and when i tryed to start the car....nothing, so i changed the wires around and the pump has been running great, its been 4 years now.
08-03-2016, 10:35 AM
#12
renegade manifold
Hi guys, Hope you can help out. I purchased a 1985 ACdelco fuel pump (EP241/GM#25116163) and attempted to install it today into my 1982 Corvette. As you probably know, it was joy to get the pump & sender out the vehicle, but I did it. I do have some questions about rewiring the 1985 fuel pump into the 1982 pump/sender assembly.
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm?
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm?
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.
08-03-2016, 12:08 PM
#13
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No, I spent around $500 trying to get the cfi to run good, I replaced or rebuilt everything & never got the fuel pressure up where it needed to be so I have up & went with carb setup
08-03-2016, 12:14 PM
#14
08-03-2016, 12:36 PM
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Yes it was, around $1200, but it turned out my 350 was wore out so I replaced it too, now I'm havin issues with my new engine, can't keep the rpm up when I put it into gear, as far as I can tell the timing is correct, can't find any vacuum leaks, was told it's my torque converter going out so I pulled my pan thinking I could find shavings in the pan, found nothing, fluid is good so that's ok, now I'm back to scratching my head, trying to figure this out, going to try putting another distributor in it, if not that, then replace carb, which those 2 are new but that's no guarantee, I'm basically in corvette hell right now, ugh
08-04-2016, 01:33 PM
#16
Zen Vet Master Level VII
I swapped mine a few months ago and it cleared up a lot of my drivability issues. The extra pressure really makes a difference.
08-04-2016, 01:56 PM
#17
Safety Car
Yes it was, around $1200, but it turned out my 350 was wore out so I replaced it too, now I'm havin issues with my new engine, can't keep the rpm up when I put it into gear, as far as I can tell the timing is correct, can't find any vacuum leaks, was told it's my torque converter going out so I pulled my pan thinking I could find shavings in the pan, found nothing, fluid is good so that's ok, now I'm back to scratching my head, trying to figure this out, going to try putting another distributor in it, if not that, then replace carb, which those 2 are new but that's no guarantee, I'm basically in corvette hell right now, ugh
08-04-2016, 02:28 PM
#18
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08-05-2016, 04:32 PM
#19
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06-28-2018, 02:19 PM
#20
Kully
I would like to comment about switching an 82 fuel pump with an 85 pump.The fuel pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator located in the front TBI. This non adjustable regulator is set to deliver 11 PSI. If a 1985 is used it will deliver a higher volume of fuel and may surpass the capability of the pressure regulator to control the pressure at 11 PSI. Therefore the fuel pressure will be above the 11 to13 PSI spec.and will float without being at a constant pressure that we are looking for. I'm sure the engineers who designed this system wouldn't recommend doing this.The 82 pump will deliver a maximum pressure of 29 PSI and the 85 pump will max out af 58 PSI. Keep in mind the pump is not controlling the system pressure the regulatoris. 1572620813]Hi guys, Hope you can help out. I purchased a 1985 ACdelco fuel pump (EP241/GM#25116163) and attempted to install it today into my 1982 Corvette. As you probably know, it was joy to get the pump & sender out the vehicle, but I did it. I do have some questions about rewiring the 1985 fuel pump into the 1982 pump/sender assembly.
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE]
Seems the original 1982 assembly had the positive wire going from the fuel pump to what appears to be a capacitor (long thin thing about 1 1/4 inch long by 5/8 round). This gizmo then has a wire going up top to the terminal. The fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the metal arm holding the capacitor.
It is fair to assume that I run the new positive from the fuel pump directly up to the terminal bypassing the original capacitor? Should I cut off the old capacitor? I'm guessing that I just solder the new ground wire to the same place the old one was attached.
Also, the original unit has a pulsator arm, but the 1985 fuel pump kit came with a short fuel hose. Should I reuse the pulsator arm
Last, does it make any difference whether I use a 1982 strainer versus a 1985 strainer?
Thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE]