Gale Banks 80'

I thought I read that in a Book 'Differentials ID restorations & repair" But I can't find it in there today. I thought it was a bit strange. However it dose say that a Cherokee used a version of the Aluminum D44 IRS and that Honda and Isuzu used them as well. However I think the book is more intnded for the Four wheel Drive Guys they also say that the early D44 IRS (C3) was cast iron.

gkull

I have a totally different opinion Your rear end will be fine. When you floor it and then hit the 300 N20 button it will either shatter the sprag in your Torq Cov or blow the transmission clutches so fast that no harm will ever come to your rearend?

Sense doesn't even attempt what you ask.

AnTra

I just hate theese weak rear-ends !, And i truly hate the price on tom´s diff wich leaves many race-interested vette-fans with their original stuff. I even called Tom´s and asked if it wasn´t possible to make a cheaper solution perhaps not for the 1400hp cars but more moderately 800hp or so :-) .... but he WAS NOT Interested....

But what i´ve heard a standard case early diff with following modifications will handle 650hp with slicks.

1. Replace to a Eaton Diff or a Auburn Pro
2. Make rear-end symmetry better with for example "drag-Vette"-kit wich will lighten the stress alot from the whole diff.
3. Replace to 3" half-shafts with 1350 spicers.
4. 1/2" rear wheel-studs

For safety-reasons safety loops are ofcourse a big + !.

Above has been good for 9,80" with a th400 and big block chevy. Good Luck or No, thats still a fact.

This is of great interest tough please keep this topic ALIVE !

58impala

Me thinks you should buy a van, trailer and spare pants! I'm going 9" on my 6-71 400 and that's only pushing 530bhp. It has the benefit of straight line stability, which is quite important when you hit 'Warp' factor!!
Yours sounds awsome

ajrothm

Time to sell off your first born....







I will HAVE to find a cheaper way myself.... I will only have about 550-600 crank hp, no nitrous, TH400.... I think I will try the 3 1/2" have shafts and solid u-joints with the drive shaft loops first....at least that way if it blows, I don't tear the car up.....The only problem with this is when I DO upgrade the inner and outter axles, my $450 half shafts will have to be worked on(flanged added)....

By my tally...

the 12bolt kit is $1750, then the HD axle kit is $1988, plus labor to build it....thats easily $4k in the rear end alone...then once you factor in building the trailing arms(to install the HD outer axles) etc, thats another $1000....add a new spring, bushings, shocks, loops etc.....An easy $6k in the rear end....




When you consider a loaded to the hilt Fab 9" can be built for $3k....this seems VERY ridiculous to me....not much you can do about it though...