Window & door problems on a 75
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Window & door problems on a 75
On my 75, the driver door has seen better days
The first problem is the window, it's electric and works,
except that the window doesn't go up all the way,
it stops about 2 inches from closing, but keeps trying to go up.
it also moves really fast compared to the passenger side.
I took off the door panel and found this in the bottom of the door.
Now what?
The other item I need is a new door panel,
what's a good place to get one?
Also, since i got the door open, what's the best grease for the window tracks, and for locking mechanisim?
The first problem is the window, it's electric and works,
except that the window doesn't go up all the way,
it stops about 2 inches from closing, but keeps trying to go up.
it also moves really fast compared to the passenger side.
I took off the door panel and found this in the bottom of the door.
Now what?
The other item I need is a new door panel,
what's a good place to get one?
Also, since i got the door open, what's the best grease for the window tracks, and for locking mechanisim?
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi lm,
Many vendors sell door panels, usually in pairs I think. Try Wilcox.
White lithium grease from the auto parts store is good lubricant for the tracks, mechanism, latch.
Regards,
Alan
Many vendors sell door panels, usually in pairs I think. Try Wilcox.
White lithium grease from the auto parts store is good lubricant for the tracks, mechanism, latch.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 08-17-2009 at 05:10 PM.
#4
Instructor
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I just got some of my interior for my 1980 from willcox new dash and door panels came in today and look great.
being a member of this forum gave me a discount top of the line panels ordered window regulators, latches, for both doors to.
very happy with the service and quality of parts
being a member of this forum gave me a discount top of the line panels ordered window regulators, latches, for both doors to.
very happy with the service and quality of parts
#5
Team Owner
Springs and regulator are available....I think Yogi Bear is the guy I got mine from, years ago....
the tracks need be soaked in gasoline overnight and scrubbed clean, broken nylon replaced.....
I would not put ANY lube on the tracks....all it does is dry out and you got same situation in a few years....
the tracks need be soaked in gasoline overnight and scrubbed clean, broken nylon replaced.....
I would not put ANY lube on the tracks....all it does is dry out and you got same situation in a few years....
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you, sounds like it'll be a new regulator for the door.
what about the motor's? how often do they go out?
the passenger window is kinda slow going up.
strangely, the window speed varies with engine speed.
what about the motor's? how often do they go out?
the passenger window is kinda slow going up.
strangely, the window speed varies with engine speed.
#7
Instructor
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Location: Falls Church Virginia
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Gary, suggest you replace the regulator, and motor. I messed with mine for years in both doors. It became a pain trying to keep the old ones working I finially replaced everthing and now I don't have any problem. It's pricey but better than having to remove door pannels (new) all the time. Suggest if you don't have one, that you get a AIM for your car. Door pannels I use top vendors, they seem to have the best quality. Just my 2 cents.
sgm2004
sgm2004
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I finally got the time and parts to fix my window, everything is looking great.
Except I can't get the elec connector to come off the motor.
and stupid me, I cut the wires to short and didn't leave enough exposed wire to splice together.
I figured I'd just replace the connector end, but it's stuck.
I'm trying wd40 but the connector is 34 yrs old and starting to break.
I'm thinkin that i should just break apart the connector until it comes out, then replace it.
can i order just that pigtail with connector?
Except I can't get the elec connector to come off the motor.
and stupid me, I cut the wires to short and didn't leave enough exposed wire to splice together.
I figured I'd just replace the connector end, but it's stuck.
I'm trying wd40 but the connector is 34 yrs old and starting to break.
I'm thinkin that i should just break apart the connector until it comes out, then replace it.
can i order just that pigtail with connector?
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2005
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Ecklers sells an adapter that has the connector you need. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...7&dept_id=1141
I am not sure which one you have. But notice the white one in the pic? You need to push down on the top and bottom tab to release it. I don't know how the other one works I have the white.
Jim
I am not sure which one you have. But notice the white one in the pic? You need to push down on the top and bottom tab to release it. I don't know how the other one works I have the white.
Jim
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
mine actually looks like a combo of the 2 connector there.
i had also found that connector but couldn't see in that white end to see wrther it was a "T" pattern.
i had also found that connector but couldn't see in that white end to see wrther it was a "T" pattern.
#11
Melting Slicks
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#12
Racer
Thread Starter
it sure looks original,
it's round like the black side but has female spade connectors in it.
it's also white and has the side clips on it like the white side.
I think i'm just gonna order that connector and splice it in.
it's round like the black side but has female spade connectors in it.
it's also white and has the side clips on it like the white side.
I think i'm just gonna order that connector and splice it in.
#13
Melting Slicks
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Jim