I was replacing with new acorn nuts on my rims, after I had new tyres put on. I sadly found out that they cross threaded one of the rear studs and it snapped off as I was removing the last one.
Do they just tap out and I can get it in from the back of the wheel hub?
Location: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
NOOOOOO!!! You too!?!?!
This just happened to me minutes ago.
But, I STRIPPED my stud. Didn't snap off. Stripped the threads.... SH*T!
mine was when I was re-torqueing on the torque wrench on my new race wheels....
sorry brother. I'm here with you.
You will have to remove the disc and emergency brake shoes, then you will have the devil of a time pressing the new stud in unless you also remove the stub axle. No fun to be sure!
I was able to punch a broken one out after removing the rotor. If it's just stripped, cut it off with a cutting wheel, otherwise you'll have a heck of a time getting it past the backing plate!
You can unbolt the caliper and if you pull the clip from the rubber hose it will give you a little play to move the caliper with the line attached up out of the way and hang it up with a wire. Make sure you slip something between the pads as you slip it up off the rotor. I use a socket.
I then took my new stud and ground a slight chamfer on one side of the head. Putting it up to the stud hole in the flange with the ground in bevel against the backing plate I gave it a slight whack with a hammer and it popped right in. From below. Enough give in the backing plate, nothing bent at all. Greased up a couple of washers and slipped them over the stud and pulled it in with a regular lugnut, flat face against the washers.
edit....I also removed the parking brake adjuster to gain access.
I've also got one snapped off...luckily mine's down to stripped chassis & everything is coming apart...tell me how you finally solve the issue, please.
Location: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
Quote:
Originally Posted by KapsSA
I was able to punch a broken one out after removing the rotor. If it's just stripped, cut it off with a cutting wheel, otherwise you'll have a heck of a time getting it past the backing plate!
You can unbolt the caliper and if you pull the clip from the rubber hose it will give you a little play to move the caliper with the line attached up out of the way and hang it up with a wire. Make sure you slip something between the pads as you slip it up off the rotor. I use a socket.
I then took my new stud and ground a slight chamfer on one side of the head. Putting it up to the stud hole in the flange with the ground in bevel against the backing plate I gave it a slight whack with a hammer and it popped right in. From below. Enough give in the backing plate, nothing bent at all. Greased up a couple of washers and slipped them over the stud and pulled it in with a regular lugnut, flat face against the washers.
As long as everybody can picture what the purpose was of grinding the bevel I think you pretty well covered it! I have done it exactly as you described.
But, I STRIPPED my stud. Didn't snap off. Stripped the threads.... SH*T!
mine was when I was re-torqueing on the torque wrench on my new race wheels....
sorry brother. I'm here with you.
I found this problem with the new lug nuts on the market. The threads and steel roll and lock up the nut. Sometimes this happens so fast with an inpact gun it shears off the stud. Not sure if GM still sells lug nuts but be careful if you use those chain store or NAPA nuts.
Location: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
Quote:
Originally Posted by midyearvette
NOOOOOO!!! You too!?!?!
This just happened to me minutes ago.
But, I STRIPPED my stud. Didn't snap off. Stripped the threads.... SH*T!
mine was when I was re-torqueing on the torque wrench on my new race wheels....
sorry brother. I'm here with you.
did you oil the threads??
no, I didn't
my dad used to oil all his lugnuts on the farm etc... I never saw the use for that. Is this the culprit?
But, I STRIPPED my stud. Didn't snap off. Stripped the threads.... SH*T!
mine was when I was re-torqueing on the torque wrench on my new race wheels....
sorry brother. I'm here with you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vette80regon
no, I didn't
my dad used to oil all his lugnuts on the farm etc... I never saw the use for that. Is this the culprit?
no actually quite the opposite..usually if someone oils the lug threads and tries to torque to spec, they will in advertenly roll or strip the threads......whenever you use an oil, you must reduce torque specs...they should go on clean and dry.....if you tried 100 lbs...i always thought it too much...i go 85 lbs....sorry bout your luck, great looking wheels tho!!.....
As long as everybody can picture what the purpose was of grinding the bevel I think you pretty well covered it! I have done it exactly as you described.
The ground in bevel is to gain a tiny bit of room and to keep what would otherwise be a blunt edge from digging into the backing plate.
But, I STRIPPED my stud. Didn't snap off. Stripped the threads.... SH*T!
mine was when I was re-torqueing on the torque wrench on my new race wheels....
sorry brother. I'm here with you.
did you oil the threads??
I bought new tires. The nuts that came with the mags were rusted but fine. The f%$%^&g mechanic, when he replaced the wheels cross threaded the lug nut and I snapped one trying to remove it. I bought a new set of chrome acorn nuts and as I was replacing them, on the last one it was cross threaded. I am ticked off as I asked the mechanic to use a hand bar to tighten not an impact wrench. If he did he never would have cross threaded it.
1977 vette snapped rear wheel stud
