black15belt

We recently restarted my dad's 71. First the transmission would not engage. We fixed it with some transmission fluid. Then the steering was wrong. Fixed that with power steering fluid. Now it's the brakes turn. Any suggestions? We would like to do it as cheap as possible.

HamadUP

when it comes to brakes, you dont want to do it as cheap as possible, remember that its a SAFETY factor!

It maybe as simple as some air in the system. If you describe the problem a little more someone here may help you with it.

7t5

You are probably going to wind up replacing the calipers (easy) and maybe rotors (not as easy) Get a manual and follow it. Rotors cannot have too much runout.
No matter what, I recommend bleeding all of the old brake fluid out of the system before putting on new calipers.No sense running all of that junk through new calipers.
Also, all of the local parts stores will have stainless lined calipers for around 80 bucks ( I think.. it has been a couple years). There is a good possibility you can use allof the other stuff ifit is not rusty or frozen. A set of pads is cheap,too. Probably 50 bucks(?) for the entire car.

I cannot stress enough how imortant it is to bleed those brakes. That fluid gets nasty. In fact, this alone could solve your brake issues. (If you are real lucky).

69elky

Before you start evaluate your brake system,check the general condition before you go off spending your money.Chances are you will have to but then again you may not.You will have to flush the system,check condition of calipers/pads replace/repair as needed ETC:Corvette Brake basics 101,have fun!

black15belt

So, a week or so from now we will re-evaluate the brakes. Depending on what we see we may only change the brake fluid for now. Later we will turn the rotors (they need it), and then the brake pads.

7t5

If you take the rotors off, they must be put back on in the same position. Mark one stud and one hole to ensure it goes back the same. If you get that far, change the pads for sure.

69elky

I wanted to ask you in my earlier post,are the brakes working or are they not? I think that you are going in the right direction before a complete restoration of your brake system.See what is wrong and correct as needed.How was the car stored?Have fun.

Mike Ward

Do not remove the rotors to turn them. They must remain on the car for this operation unlike other modern cars. Do your reserach on 'runout'.

7t5

That is not true. They can be done off car just like any rotor but runout may be an issue. Especially if he cannot drive it to a shop. What is he going to do, pay a towing bill? The dude is on a budget, don't make it harder than it has to be.

black15belt

So what do I do with the rotors? mark what holes what? I think what you mean is that keep the left rotor is put back on the left rotor?

The brakes do not work at all. My dad thinks that it is because he did them almost 30 years ago and probably did ont get all of the air out.

7t5

30 YEARS? OH BOY, SOUNDS LIKE TROUBLE.
1) Bleed the brakes. If you don't know how, get a book or do a forum search.

2) After bleeding, see if calipers are actually working. They should clamp and release when you are working the brake pedal. If not, get some calipers at PEP boys or somewhere similar.

3)Get a white or yellow paint marker. put a spot of paint on the end of one stud on each wheel. Then draw a circle around the stud on the surface of the rotor. This is to make sure each rotor goes back on in the same position. Take the rotor off, go back to PEP boys and get them turned. I suspect you are going to be buying new rotors as well, but maybe not. (If your dad took them off at one point and did not mark them, marking them won't be necessary. they are probably already out of position).

4) Reinstall rotors and check for runout. Do a forum search in C3 tech for directions.

You may need brake hoses at each corner, in fact I recommend it.

Take some pics and post them here. We would all lke to see what you are dealing with so we can help you better.

7t5

Note the yellow markings on the wheel stud and rotor face at the 9 o'clock position. That particular caliper and rotor (right rear) is really squeaky and I think it is not completely clamping up when the brakes are applied. Time for me to get busy, too. Money pit!

black15belt

Why get the rotors in the smae position? What would that do??
Isn't it the same all the way around? We will definitely change hoses.
Thanks!

7t5

Runout. Do a Search for it.

Mike Ward

Your post makes no sense. Why would anyone turn a rotor off the car (and machine away precious material) if it does not correct runout, or makes it worse?

If the OP can't afford to do his brakes properly, then he should park the car until he can. I don't want to share the road with vehicles with questionable brakes.

Brooklinite

black15, before you start pulling rotors off take some time and educate yourself about runout. Lots of threads here about it. Then get the tools you need to measure the runout at each wheel and go from there. The runout has to be within spec or you will pump air into your lines. Sometimes you can shim them or index them to bring them within spec but the best way is to have them turned while they're on the car...like they did at the factory.

7t5

It does not have to be done on the car. Would it be the ultimate best way? Maybe. He at least can get usable rotors onto the car (originals or replacement),measure runout, and go from there. Many people on this forum have corrected runout issues with shims.
Again, maybe you don't understand a young guy on a budget trying to get his car on the road.

Here is an excellent link with photos describing the process.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ment-done.html

And here is 1 more, pay close attention to post# 15. This guy is a pro.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-question.html

Mike Ward

Yes, that's Gary R. I have the highest respect for him and his work. Absolute top quality and an extremely knowledgeable guy. Since you apparently think similarly, try reading the same string again. Especially this paragraph in post #7, by him:

"rear rotors should not be cut unless an on the car lathe is used. Once the rotor is separated from the spindle flange rivets all control over runout is lost. They were assembled and machined as a unit to get the runout near -0.000"

Dude, if you're going to call BS on somebody at least find references that don't contradict what you're saying

7t5

I did see that, "dude". Did you notice how he set up the whole thing with shims? No lathe in sight.

Back onto topic: These cars can be set up without looking all over hells half- acre to find someone to turn the rotors on the car. You are the one insisting there was only 1 way to do it. If it were to be shimmed anyway, what difference does it make to clean them up first? I was telling the OP that there is a correct way to do the job on his own. On a budget.
If it was me, I wouldn't even consider re-using that old crap. I'd get new ones and be done with it. But, I'm a baller.

Mike Ward

I made no comment one way or the other with regards to using shims. I simply said NOT to turn the rotors off the car as it serves no purpose and machines away metal for nothing.

Guess reading comprehension was not your best subject in school, huh?