pj_corvette

Hi

So I just got my vette back from the mechanic. He was doing a ton of things to it, trying to get the new crate engine to run fine. I'm sure he reads this forum, so he's is probably reading this along with all of you.

To my surprise, he had tuned it so that there would be no mechanical or vacuum advance.

Thus, the advance is now always at 36 degrees all the time at all RPM's.

What are the pros and cons of this?

THanks

J. Scott

Read the sticky post on the top of this page. It will explain everything (or at least get you well on your way). I used the advice and my car has never run better. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...long-post.html

IMHO, If what you are saying is correct I'd take my car elsewhere in a heartbeat.

7T1vette

RUNNN, Forrest! (to a new mechanic)

'75

I hope you misunderstood your mechanic. If what you say is what he really did, you need some money back and go find a mechanic.

Jeff_Keryk

My friend, this does not make sense...

Gordonm

Get a new mechanic.

midyearvette

in my opinion, this is not the thing to do with a street engine.....a lot of drag guys do it (locked advance) and use a hi torque starter to help them but a street mill needs a curve..like i say..jmho......

TheycallmeDave

You need advance in a motor otherwise you will not get its full power potential ; it will also be in a state of constant retard which will make it run hotter.

calwldlife

As mentioned, good luck starting it, super starter or not.
I hope you misunderstood the guy.

d555

Is your car a race car? Or a very radical street car, that doubles as drag
car? This is a common setup for drag car. But we all don't drive race cars on the street.
I run my car 35 deg. all in. But with a 20 deg. start retard. If your running
a mild motor, less than 500 H.P. iron heads on pump gas, this is not the
setup.

billla

I have to assume you misunderstood - but if not, your "mechanic" needs to seek other employment.

If he's been cranking on a new engine without it starting, I hope you're preoiling the hell out of it. A new engine should fire immediately if everything's right - and it's worth the time required to get everything right.

FB007

Correct answer. Pinning a distributor at 36* is for the strip only.

73, Dark Blue 454

No way you could start the car. You'd get kick-back.

No way one setting (36*) is optimal for all street driving conditions. My cars typically have 14-16 degrees initial, 36 total mechanical, and another 16 from the vacuum advance can, meaning I could have over 52 degrees timing,..highway cruising for instance.

Agree,..find a mechanic who understands timing.

TheycallmeDave

My modified BB street Vette was recurved at 18 initial / 42 total all in by 3,000 . 93 pump gas . No ping. Max. low end torque -- runs great .

bashcraft

The only way you could start it would be to have seperate starter and ignition switches. You hit the starter button, get it spinning, then flip the ignition on and hope you don't break the starter drive.

pj_corvette

Hello All

Yes, I double checked with the mechanic, and he locked advance on the distributor so it is always at 36 degrees advance.

My engine is a 383 crate with aluminum heads and roller rockers, rated at 475hp. Dont know if it makes a difference in deciding to lock the advance on the distributor. It's not going to be used only at the track though. Most of the time it will be street driven.

Could there be other problems besides being hard to start?
The car starts up fine though. Is the starting the main concern?

Peterbuilt

Base timing at 36* and a locked differential, for the street- are you for real? PG.

OzzyTom

That'd HAVE to be a typo error!

pj_corvette

Yes, it was. I meant locked the advance on the distributor. duh!

73StreetRace

I think a distributor locked at 36° for a street car is a big mistake, except if you drive it always as a drag race car.
Can work well at WOT, but certainly not the best setup in traffic...
Even no vacuum advance is not a good idea either, for the same reasons, plus mpg...