1977 Door Mechanism Closing Problem
05-30-2009, 08:33 PM
#1
1977 Door Mechanism Closing Problem
Hi All,
Does anyone here know how to adjust the door opening mechanism in a 77 Vette?
The guy that I bought it from said that he played with it and messed it up. I have to pull the inside handle, then the outside handle and it might close. Sometimes I have to slam the door 6-8 times to get it to close correctly, 8 out of 10 times it closes with the door partially ajar. I think that something is out of wack in the inner door and is keeping the door closing mechanism from working correctly. I can manually make the 2 arms in the door latch lock onto a bolt. But on a slam, it is not working correctly.
Thanks
Jack
Does anyone here know how to adjust the door opening mechanism in a 77 Vette?
The guy that I bought it from said that he played with it and messed it up. I have to pull the inside handle, then the outside handle and it might close. Sometimes I have to slam the door 6-8 times to get it to close correctly, 8 out of 10 times it closes with the door partially ajar. I think that something is out of wack in the inner door and is keeping the door closing mechanism from working correctly. I can manually make the 2 arms in the door latch lock onto a bolt. But on a slam, it is not working correctly.
Thanks
Jack
05-30-2009, 10:52 PM
#2
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Jack,
The internal parts of the door latch wear out! We have a 69 in our shop right now that has the exact same problem and it needs the latch replaced.
We removed the latch and cleaned it, but it will still not function properly.
As much as I hate to say it I would consider replacing this part over trying to fix it and then having to go back in later to replace it.
The only adjustment is in the stud in the door jamb! Another thing to check would include the door hinge pins too! If the striker is adjusted and the hinge pins are bad the door will sag and the striker can not make up the difference. You may have play in the hinge pins but again I doubt this is your problem.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...oor+lock+latch
Willcox Inc.
The internal parts of the door latch wear out! We have a 69 in our shop right now that has the exact same problem and it needs the latch replaced.
We removed the latch and cleaned it, but it will still not function properly.
As much as I hate to say it I would consider replacing this part over trying to fix it and then having to go back in later to replace it.
The only adjustment is in the stud in the door jamb! Another thing to check would include the door hinge pins too! If the striker is adjusted and the hinge pins are bad the door will sag and the striker can not make up the difference. You may have play in the hinge pins but again I doubt this is your problem.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...oor+lock+latch
Willcox Inc.
05-31-2009, 10:32 AM
#3
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I am still having trouble with my drvr side door. I have replaced the latch
The outside handle was replaced earlier. Always works perfectly from inside. From outside not unless it is closed firmly with the window up.
With the window down won't open from outside. I realize I have to tear into it again but was wondering if you know of something I should be looking for. Door hinge pins appear to be without excess play. Many thanks for any guidance
J Bowles
The outside handle was replaced earlier. Always works perfectly from inside. From outside not unless it is closed firmly with the window up.
With the window down won't open from outside. I realize I have to tear into it again but was wondering if you know of something I should be looking for. Door hinge pins appear to be without excess play. Many thanks for any guidance
J Bowles
05-31-2009, 11:42 AM
#6
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I have adjusted the rod from the outside handle to what I believe is the
factory spec (AIM). The inside always works perfectly. I am wondering if my replacement outside handle has started to break like the factory one
or if the latch(new) itself is not functioning as it should.
Many thanks
J Bowles
factory spec (AIM). The inside always works perfectly. I am wondering if my replacement outside handle has started to break like the factory one
or if the latch(new) itself is not functioning as it should.
Many thanks
J Bowles
05-31-2009, 12:14 PM
#7
Jack,
The internal parts of the door latch wear out! We have a 69 in our shop right now that has the exact same problem and it needs the latch replaced.
We removed the latch and cleaned it, but it will still not function properly.
As much as I hate to say it I would consider replacing this part over trying to fix it and then having to go back in later to replace it.
The only adjustment is in the stud in the door jamb! Another thing to check would include the door hinge pins too! If the striker is adjusted and the hinge pins are bad the door will sag and the striker can not make up the difference. You may have play in the hinge pins but again I doubt this is your problem.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...oor+lock+latch
Willcox Inc.
The internal parts of the door latch wear out! We have a 69 in our shop right now that has the exact same problem and it needs the latch replaced.
We removed the latch and cleaned it, but it will still not function properly.
As much as I hate to say it I would consider replacing this part over trying to fix it and then having to go back in later to replace it.
The only adjustment is in the stud in the door jamb! Another thing to check would include the door hinge pins too! If the striker is adjusted and the hinge pins are bad the door will sag and the striker can not make up the difference. You may have play in the hinge pins but again I doubt this is your problem.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...oor+lock+latch
Willcox Inc.
I find it hard to believe (I am not doubting you) that the latch is bad. I have restored so many American and British cars in the past 44 years and I only had a trunk latch that I had to fix on a 1951 Jaguar XK120.
My 61 Cadillac and my 67 GTO have a similar latch to the Corvette, I lubed them years ago and they have never failed (yet). Something inside the Corvette door is sticking. It almost feels like a ghost is pulling the inside door open handle, every time I try to close the door. Yesterday, when it finally closed I couldn't open the door from the outside handle (Only one time) it felt like there was nothing connected. I used the inside to open it. Then last week I used the key lock and when I pulled the outside handle to check if it locked, I was not able to open it the door from the outside and it felt like the key wouldn't work the locking mechanism. I had to open it from the inside. I bought on Ebay the factory Service manual & a reprint of the AIM. I have a general 66-82 shop manual here now & the Corvette 68-82 Restoration guide but I am hoping that the ones that I am waiting for will help. I replaced the weather stripping yesterday that I bought from you and it makes it a little harder to close. That will get better.
Thanks
Jack
05-31-2009, 01:23 PM
#8
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I just tore mine apart again and the outside door handle spring had broken
where it attaches to the handle. Really wouldn't notice it unless close inspection. It was not letting the latch return. I drilled a new hole and pulled the end of the spring through it. Now it feels right. Going to reassemble and see what happens. It's the little stuff that kills you. This handle was less than a year old.
Many thanks
where it attaches to the handle. Really wouldn't notice it unless close inspection. It was not letting the latch return. I drilled a new hole and pulled the end of the spring through it. Now it feels right. Going to reassemble and see what happens. It's the little stuff that kills you. This handle was less than a year old.
Many thanks
05-31-2009, 03:18 PM
#9
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Jack:
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 05-31-2009 at 03:22 PM.
05-31-2009, 09:41 PM
#10
Jack:
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
I think that it is a combination of the rod (It feels like it is getting stuck sometimes) and the door panel. I noticed that when I asked my son to close the drivers door and I watched through the passengers door window that the door panel moves enough to almost move the inside door release to keep the latch ajar.
I have to get some heavy duty velcro as both door panels are very loose.
But a picture says a thousand words.
Thanks
Jack
06-01-2009, 01:32 PM
#11
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Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 06-01-2009 at 11:30 PM.
06-04-2009, 12:03 PM
#12
Something new is happening. I haven't had a moment to get the lock correct as it does close one out of every 5 times and sometimes better. I felt that having all of the electrical working, oil & water leaks fixed & tracing the horn ahead in line of the door. I plan to do the door this weekend.
Now, every 3rd time I use the outside or inside handles and it feels like nothing is connected to them, they feel free, like something in the connecting mechanism is stuck and the handle rods are pulling non connected levers. I then have to try to close the door (which just comes right back to me) and play with the inside lever then I get a connected to rod to mechanism feel from both inside and outside again. Then it's back to closing the door till it grabs.
Thanks
Jack
Now, every 3rd time I use the outside or inside handles and it feels like nothing is connected to them, they feel free, like something in the connecting mechanism is stuck and the handle rods are pulling non connected levers. I then have to try to close the door (which just comes right back to me) and play with the inside lever then I get a connected to rod to mechanism feel from both inside and outside again. Then it's back to closing the door till it grabs.
Thanks
Jack
06-07-2009, 12:05 PM
#13
Jack:
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
The lever with the flat clip which has the rod attached to it from the handle is held in place with a rather large rivet. This lever and rivet will wear out and not throw like is supposed to!
There is also a lever in the latch that wears out and this is more common than the throw lever.
I'll see if I can get a picture of this and post it when I get back in town. Doing this will at least show people what to check before lubing and re-installing.
We can uaually get them going too, but once they get to a point where the lever is not pushing due to lack of material it is a waste of time. I hope you don't need the latch and that I am wrong! The locks are a pain to get in and out.
The only point of ajustment that I can think would be that of the rod from the handle to the lock if the problem is in the outside handle.
Willcox
I am at the point after some adjustments and using lithium grease on every moving part of the locking mechanism, that I can close the door and it goes (from the outside) when I shut it, it grabs like a half a close. I then have to push it one more time (or one more click) and the door is closed. If I try to slam it from the inside it's a different story. It closes after a few slams. It should be easier.
I had the door panel off today and I had no weather stripping on the door. It closed every time perfectly. I put the new weather stripping on and this it is how it is now. (a little better than before I lubed and adjusted a rod)
I was thinking about moving the striking pin out or the lock in a notch. But I then thought that it closed and aligned perfect on the second click, but I am having a hard time from the inside. It also closed perfect and aligned perfect (with no pressure on it) with the rubber stripping out. If I move the parts will it go in too far and be out of align? Any other advice?
Thanks
Jack
06-09-2009, 10:27 PM
#14
I am still having the to do the second push. I can't close it from the inside by pulling the inner handle. I have to roll down the window and pull the door closed from holding the door skin.
If I am outside the car I can close it and it will stay a little ajar I then have to use my hip or push it on the door crease a bit and it then closes perfect. Should I move the striker pin out a bit or move the locking mech in a bit?
Thanks
Jack
If I am outside the car I can close it and it will stay a little ajar I then have to use my hip or push it on the door crease a bit and it then closes perfect. Should I move the striker pin out a bit or move the locking mech in a bit?
Thanks
Jack
06-10-2009, 11:33 AM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Jack,
You might have to move the striker out just a little bit. Try just a little and see what happens. Worse case is you'll have to move it back.
Willcox
You might have to move the striker out just a little bit. Try just a little and see what happens. Worse case is you'll have to move it back.
Willcox
06-10-2009, 11:39 AM
#16
06-25-2009, 11:31 AM
#17
Hi All,
Can I please get a reference page (in the AIM or Chevy service manual) on the door rods adjustment? The door is closing now, but..............only (from the inside) with the window down, I have to grab the door from the top and close it then one more light pull so it closes correctly. If I use the pull handle the door will not close, it appears that the panel pulls the inside open handle and when it closes it pops back out and will not allow me to use the pull.
From the outside (window up or down) I can close the door, then I have to push it one more time for the complete close.
If I move the pin I am afraid that the door will not close completely and align. (It does close completely and aligned after the 2nd push). Sometimes with the t-top off and the window down, with a light push the door closes correctly.
I am stumped.
Thanks
Jack
Can I please get a reference page (in the AIM or Chevy service manual) on the door rods adjustment? The door is closing now, but..............only (from the inside) with the window down, I have to grab the door from the top and close it then one more light pull so it closes correctly. If I use the pull handle the door will not close, it appears that the panel pulls the inside open handle and when it closes it pops back out and will not allow me to use the pull.
From the outside (window up or down) I can close the door, then I have to push it one more time for the complete close.
If I move the pin I am afraid that the door will not close completely and align. (It does close completely and aligned after the 2nd push). Sometimes with the t-top off and the window down, with a light push the door closes correctly.
I am stumped.
Thanks
Jack
