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Copper header gaskets

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Old 04-09-2009, 10:50 AM
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QuicheLorraine
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Default Copper header gaskets

They leak like a seive on my new AFR 190's. What to do?? The gaskets came with a small package of washers in the blister packaging but I have no idea what they were for. I assumed it was for a different application but the gaskets were, on the other hand, for a SBC.

The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
Old 04-09-2009, 11:44 AM
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Buzzardz_vette
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I've also got copper ones for my new headers so I'd be interested in the answer.
Old 04-09-2009, 12:19 PM
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GeorgeS
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My builder told me to stear away from the copper and that they were intended for race applications. He said that IF I use them I should re-torque the head bolts twice after running the engine at temp. I sent the gaskets back and installed felpro.
Old 04-09-2009, 01:18 PM
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QuicheLorraine
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Originally Posted by GeorgeS
My builder told me to stear away from the copper and that they were intended for race applications. He said that IF I use them I should re-torque the head bolts twice after running the engine at temp. I sent the gaskets back and installed felpro.
Hey, George to be clear: We're talking HEADER bolts now, not HEAD bolts correct?

My header bolts have not loosened - the engine has only 15-30 minutes run time on it as of now ... still trying to correct power steering leaks from the control valve. On my third one right now.
Old 04-09-2009, 01:24 PM
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midyearvette
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Originally Posted by QuicheLorraine
They leak like a seive on my new AFR 190's. What to do?? The gaskets came with a small package of washers in the blister packaging but I have no idea what they were for. I assumed it was for a different application but the gaskets were, on the other hand, for a SBC.

The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
stay away from the copper header gaskets with the copper ridge....no matter which way you install them there is a good chance you will warp the header flange as the copper ridge does not compress...used on a stock cast iron header they can and will break an ear from the manifold......there are many others to choose from...
Old 04-09-2009, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
stay away from the copper header gaskets with the copper ridge....no matter which way you install them there is a good chance you will warp the header flange as the copper ridge does not compress...used on a stock cast iron header they can and will break an ear from the manifold......there are many others to choose from...
Thanks Midyear. Any suggestions?
Old 04-09-2009, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
stay away from the copper header gaskets with the copper ridge....no matter which way you install them there is a good chance you will warp the header flange as the copper ridge does not compress...used on a stock cast iron header they can and will break an ear from the manifold......there are many others to choose from...
Now just hold on a minute, think about what you are saying. Your are being totally silly here. The copper we are talking about here is thin dead soft stuff. Those copper ridges are just simple stampings in the thin copper material. They are not some huge copper wire, so they absolutely will compress. Those gaskets are way to thin and soft to cause a much thicker "steel" header flange to warp. That's almost like saying you could file a diamond with a piece of plastic. Ain't gonna happen. Though "you" could of course overtorque the @#$@$% out of the flange in an attempt to get them to seal. That could warp the flanges. And if you ever broke an ear off a cast iron exhaust manifold, you are really over doing things. Its not the gasket itself hurting anything. I admit they are a junk gasket that doesn't work, but its impossible for the gasket to hurt anything, only the nut working the ratchet can do that.
Old 04-09-2009, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by QuicheLorraine
Thanks Midyear. Any suggestions?
yes..i really like the "percy" brand that are dead soft aluminum layers...they really seem to seal nicely and are re usable......jmho....
Old 04-09-2009, 04:06 PM
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You should use 5/16 ARP univeral header studs so you dont strip out you nice new aluminum heads. i use the FelPro blue steel exhausts gaskets over and over again.

Copper is for constant tear downs like previously mentioned.

You should also use block 12 point head studs with aluminum heads



Copper head gaskets on the 427 small block because it comes apart several times a year. It finally broke the crank shaft in less than a year anyway.


Last edited by gkull; 04-09-2009 at 04:47 PM.
Old 04-09-2009, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 540 RAT
Now just hold on a minute, think about what you are saying. Your are being totally silly here. The copper we are talking about here is thin dead soft stuff. Those copper ridges are just simple stampings in the thin copper material. They are not some huge copper wire, so they absolutely will compress. Those gaskets are way to thin and soft to cause a much thicker "steel" header flange to warp. That's almost like saying you could file a diamond with a piece of plastic. Ain't gonna happen. Though "you" could of course overtorque the @#$@$% out of the flange in an attempt to get them to seal. That could warp the flanges. And if you ever broke an ear off a cast iron exhaust manifold, you are really over doing things. Its not the gasket itself hurting anything. I admit they are a junk gasket that doesn't work, but its impossible for the gasket to hurt anything, only the nut working the ratchet can do that.
i beg to differ here the ones im talking about are the mr.gaskets which the ridges are NOT dead soft copper or if they are, they are rolled in such a way that it leaves an air space at the bolt...no matter how you handle the wrench, the ridge does not compress and if you are the slightest bit off in tightening the bolts you WILL break or crack an ear because there is no support under the bolt head with an iron manifold. in fact once tightened, you will see an air space between the flange and head of about 1/16 inch!!.......this could warp a header flange or crack a manifold..i have seen it a few times from others who are very good with wrenches, that's why i like the "percy" brand..dead soft aluminum.....good luck.....
Old 04-09-2009, 04:30 PM
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I use the copper header gaskets on AFR 195's leak free, even reused them but kept track of which side was which. No problems at all. I also use copper collector gaskets doubled up with great results. Won't blow out like ordinary ones. Had no luck using dead soft alum. on collectors....half melted them.
Old 04-09-2009, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jimvette999
I use the copper header gaskets on AFR 195's leak free, even reused them but kept track of which side was which. No problems at all. I also use copper collector gaskets doubled up with great results. Won't blow out like ordinary ones. Had no luck using dead soft alum. on collectors....half melted them.
Ridge on the copper header gaskets facing out like I did? Or facing in towared the head & toward the collector? I put the ridges on the outside, and they leak all over the place
Old 04-09-2009, 07:49 PM
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best thing is to throw the copper ones away and use the Felpro Performance line blue gaskets. They fit perfect, seal well even on rusted/pitted surfaces and last forever. I have tried the copper version from several vendors on Chevs, Ponitacs, and Mopars and have yet to find a good one.
Old 04-09-2009, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Reggie Dunlop
best thing is to throw the copper ones away and use the Felpro Performance line blue gaskets. They fit perfect, seal well even on rusted/pitted surfaces and last forever. I have tried the copper version from several vendors on Chevs, Ponitacs, and Mopars and have yet to find a good one.
Darn shame at 45 bux plus tax if I remember.
Old 04-09-2009, 10:16 PM
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Some things even if they seem expensive really are not that expensive. When you take into account how many times you will have to replace them with a cheaper brand or type of gasket used for any given surface. But this is for all parts not just gaskets lol. Not saying the most expensive is the best but you do have a much better chance to get a good part. And then there is this forum where you can ask what works and what does not work.

But then again some I think use the ones that they know will not work for long so they can work more on there car and money and time is no object . lol.
Old 04-10-2009, 10:00 AM
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Around here, lotsa oval racers use No header gaskets at all. Just a heavy bead of plain red hi-temp RTV around ports ... bolt up headers ... cure o'nite. Laugh if ya want, but it works & lasts real good ... 'though some folks probably wouldn't like the way it looks.
Old 04-10-2009, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jackson
Around here, lotsa oval racers use No header gaskets at all. Just a heavy bead of plain red hi-temp RTV around ports ... bolt up headers ... cure o'nite. Laugh if ya want, but it works & lasts real good ... 'though some folks probably wouldn't like the way it looks.
I've actually done that too, in the past. Don't wanna do it on the Vette thogh.

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Old 04-10-2009, 11:14 AM
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larrywalk
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I haven't had success with copper header gaskets on Hooker Super Comps. The best header gaskets I've found are made by Earl's - the aluminum with the replaceable graphite inserts - they're a bit pricey, but no leaks!
Old 04-10-2009, 01:32 PM
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For a street car where you're not going to be frequently taking the enine part, I don't think it's a good idea to use copper gaskets on an aluminum head. Iron head is OK. Copper and aluminum are dissimblar metals and corrosion tends to start when they're in contact.
Old 04-10-2009, 04:48 PM
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i've not found anything that works better than the factory type gasket, yet, and you can't get much less expensive. admit not trying everything


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