ripforrey

I will be installing new carpet, pad and heat shield in a couple of weeks any tip's, hints etc would be appreciated.
Also, ideas for the backing between the door and panel cover.
Thanks

magoof16

I just finished putting Lizardskin ceramic insulation in my '69. I went with it instead of mat for heat protection partly due to cost and partly due to the complete coverage I could get. Their website has some pretty good info:

http://www.lizardskin.com/

I wound up brushing it in rather than spraying to avoid overspray and it was fairly easy to get the prescribed thickness.

Unfortunately I can't comment on how effective it is, since I'm still in the middle of the project. But I've heard anecdotal evidence that it does pretty well. Should also be easy to get carpet over it.

0Willcox Corvette

I think the best advice I can give you is to put the carpet outside in the sun for a few hours before you install it.

Also, test fit everything before you glue!

On the higher end heat barriers, foil side down!

Now another little trick we like to do is this: While we have the carpet out of the car and with the front end of the car elevated, we insert the brightest lamps we have in the car. We then cover the car with a car cover and turn off the lights. Once you do these things, go under the car and look for holes! Any hole is place for heat to come in.

If you are missing the floor pan plugs, this is a good time to install them as well. On your car the front floor plug has a small hole in it and this is the type you want to run. It will let water out and not much air in.

The key here is making sure you have the car sealed up and this will show you pretty quick.

Good Luck,

Willcox Inc.

73BLWN

I ordered some fitting last monday, and noticed this heat barrior. It looks very interesting.

http://www.route66supply.com/store/page103.html

I coverd my floor with Cool-It Supressor for now and I'm just putting the factory carpet and backing in place. I'll wrap my exhaust under the car with header wrap, and make sure to plug all of the holes like Wilcox suggested. If it's still hot, I may try the NASA RB51 Foil under the carpet too, it's only .007" thick and sounds impressive. Haven't driven the car with the supressor, and holes plugged, but I'm hopeful it will help. Others have led me to believe this isn't the best approach to controlling heat. I'm also trying to control the sound so I'm not off to a bad start. Header wrap really helped out reducing cabin heat for me in the past.

Shift_Happens

Why foil side down? Mfg does not suggest this, but maybe a 'glass car is different?

jbowles49

I used dynamat (the heavy stuff )on my floors and doors. Feels much quieter and cooler. Good luck

0Willcox Corvette

You know, I may be suffering from sometimers issues. It's been a long, long time since I installed this and I will double check. My memory say's the mfg says foil side down but I'll check this to make sure.

Added: Double checked and yes, foil side down on the 2300 degree thermal barrier.

Willcox

Richard454

I don't know what the Mfg says-but look at any duct work-Foil on the outside to STOP the heat. So I would AGREE w/ Willcox. Insulation down then foil up sounds to me as it would STORE the heat in the interior. I could be wrong...I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night....

Richard

HamadUP

Absolutely. You need to "reflect" what ever coming from outside and prevent it from coming inside, so the "reflector" should face the heat source in that case, and reflects it to the outside. but again, if you think about it for a minute, the heat will still be there! .. so it will be just "stored" behind the reflector, and that's why the best way to fight cabin heat "in my honest opinion" is to block it from outside but using a reflector/insulator installed on the outer surface of the cabin (ie. firewall, trans. tunnel, and under the seats).

OzzyTom

I know it may not be NCRS compatible, but placing a heat shield barrier on the underside of the body is a good method of reducing the heat before it even gets into the floor pan/body work.

I have under carpet insulation, but it still allowed a lot of heat in after about a half hour of touring.

I fitted a reflective fibreglass matting (3mm fibreglass matting with aluminium bonded layer) over the firewall, under floor and trans tunnel)


Bonded it using a high temp silicon adhesive. Material was sourced from a specialist truck accesssory supplier..... this matting is used a lot for heat control in big turbo truck and caterpillar applications.
Rated at 500* celsius (>900*F), it is very tolerant of hot exhaust pipes temps.

It has been exceptionally effective in reducing cabin temps for me.